cliff Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 I need a skimmer quick. The hair algae has started... Trying to catch it before it gets out of hand! I have already reduced feedings now I need to work on getting rid of the nitrate. Looking for something under $100 thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 I don't have a skimmer for you but nitrate concentration is directly proportional to the volume of water removed. Basically, do a 50% water change, and you'll cut your nitrates by half. I'm not advocating a 50% water change. I was just using that number because it's easy to think of with the explanation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 I don't have a skimmer for you but nitrate concentration is directly proportional to the volume of water removed. Basically, do a 50% water change, and you'll cut your nitrates by half. I'm not advocating a 50% water change. I was just using that number because it's easy to think of with the explanation. I did a 20% percent water changed last night. That did help. Ill do another one next week 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jestep Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Personally, I don't think I could attribute using a skimmer to a large amount of nitrate removal unless you're using biopellets or vodka dosing at the same time. You might see some difference adding a skimmer, but I highly doubt it's going to take it down enough for a reduction in algae growth. Algae is a thousand times better at removing NO3 than plain skimming. Best way to keep NO3 down is not to allow it in the tank in the first place. Thoughtful stocking, limited feeding, and routine water changes are the best way to manage it in that size tank. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 (edited) So, I have cut my feeding of my 2 clowns down to once every 3 days and my anemone every 3 days. I cut my light (blue 40% white 20% on a t-247b) down to 4 hrs of full spectrum and 6 hrs of blues. I did a 20 percent water change last night. Parameters Ammonia .25 (found a dead snail ammonia is going down quick now).(sump is 10 gallons, blue white pad filter, and about 10 cups of crushed fiji rock and 1 cup of carbon in a media bag).Nitrate 7.0 . phosphate .25. Salinity 1.026. Temp 79-81. Ill check the nitrite again when I get home. The only thing left I can think of was a skimmer....Ill give it a few days and see if the algae decreases. i'm guessing the dead snail caused a ammonia spike which caused a nitrate spike Etc... poof Green hair algae! Any other recommendations to get rid of this crap? Its not very much. maybe a dollar bill size very thin on one rock and a couple quarter and dime sized very short hair. Edited February 16, 2016 by cholder777 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+KimP Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 What everyone else said, and keep up with manual removal. Even better if you can pull the rock(s) out and scrub with a toothbrush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 I have all of my rocks drilled and placed with fiber glass rods. :/ I was trying to avoid taking them all out. I dont think ill be able to get them to sit perfect like I have them! haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jestep Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 I have all of my rocks drilled and placed with fiber glass rods. :/ I was trying to avoid taking them all out. I dont think ill be able to get them to sit perfect like I have them! haha One thing you can do if it starts to get out of control is to drain the tank so the rocks are exposed. Use a spray bottle and spray the algae directly with undiluted hydrogen peroxide. Let it sit for 5 - 10 minutes before refilling. When you fill it back up, the residual H2O2 is negligible but it kills most any algae. Safe with most coral as well, exceptions being soft coral. I've never had a bad enough problem with hair algae to warrant it, but if you get bryopsis it's a really good method to get rid of it and a lot cheaper than using Mg to treat it. Also, just to be sure, you may want to make sure you're dealing with hair algae and not some species of bryopsis, which is something I would highly suggest taking action on immediately. Some types are not beatable by nutrient control once they are established. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 ill take a picture and post when i get home. thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reburn Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 P04 at 0.25 is your problem. I like the 0.03 to 0.08 range. How are you testing phosphates? Your N03 seems in line at 7ppm. A dead snail is going to go poof and give you GHA. It effect on your system was negligible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 http://www.google.com/search?q=reef+master+test+kit&safe=off&espv=2&biw=1069&bih=524&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj0lKClif3KAhUD0iYKHSV5BCcQ_AUICCgD&dpr=1#imgrc=FSmP7m6ri4N-7M%3A reef master test kit. How do you recommend lowering it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reburn Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 What would I do. Four 50% water changes in 2 weeks. Make sure to buffer your alk to match your tank. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 alright. Ill try it out. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reburn Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Also you may want to look at getting a Hanna Phospahte checker. It's the ultra low range, the green one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 cool. Ill check them out. Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jolt Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Some of us use the Hanna ULR Phosphorous tester (the HI736 unit) because it tests down to a lower range than the Hanna phosphate checker (the HI713 unit) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jolt Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Looks like cyano to me, not so much hair algae Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 (edited) That's a good thing right? I'm obviously still pretty new to this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited February 17, 2016 by cholder777 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jolt Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 I don't think I know anyone who would call cyano good I'm sure some others will chime in with ways to get rid of it, but for me it's typically been in my tank when nutrients and/or lights are too high Try blowing it off with a turkey baster, if it comes off easily its cyano Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 I mean good that it's not hair algae. Will it go away since I lowered my lighting to 4 hrs a day and feeding to 3 days or do I need to do something before it takes over my tank Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 I wouldn't overreact to it. It seems to be green cyano. You're tank is so new you're going to go through your stages of algae for the first 6-9 months. Just continue to do water changes, manually remove what you can, and make sure your nutrient levels don't get out of hand. For your phosphates, I'd employ some GFO in a reactor or aluminum oxide to remove phosphate. Do it slowly though or your corals will pay the price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 Ok will do. The only thing I have is 2 clowns and 1 Condy anemone. It's definitely cyano. It blew right off with a turkey baster. With just the 2 fish and anemone would you still suggest me getting a reactor? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Ok will do. The only thing I have is 2 clowns and 1 Condy anemone. It's definitely cyano. It blew right off with a turkey baster. With just the 2 fish and anemone would you still suggest me getting a reactor? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I'll be honest, I ran a nano cube for 5 years without anything but water changes and it was awesome. For your tank, with only having the livestock that you have, I think some good water changes like Reburn mentioned will get you there for nutrient levels. From that point, you'll just have to stay on top of the water changes to maintain. For me, I despise water changes, so throwing a reactor on it and running GFO sounds better to me than all those water changes. You'll still have to do them to replenish your foundation elements and trace elements, as well as reduce nitrates, but not as much as I think you'll have to do to keep your phosphate level low without the reactor. The main thing that concerns me is the lack of feedings to your fish. I'd increase water changes or add a reactor any day if it meant I could feed my fish appropriately, meaning daily, to keep them healthy and happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 Ok. I just fed them again. Now that I'm not worried about the algae I'll go back to me feeding the clowns every day. And the anemone every other day. I'll keep an eye out for a reactor and in the mean time I'll stick with my water changes. Thanks so much for the help. Y'all rock. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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