FarmerTy Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 I did put some ulva from his tank in my sump this weekend. It may have been infused with magical powers from his tank...Don't you know ulva is a natural aphrodisiac? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gig 'em @ NDstructible Posted October 25, 2016 Author Share Posted October 25, 2016 I did put some ulva from his tank in my sump this weekend. It may have been infused with magical powers from his tank...Don't you know ulva is a natural aphrodisiac? HEY TY CAN I GET SOME MORE OF THAT ULVA?! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo662 Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 I did put some ulva from his tank in my sump this weekend. It may have been infused with magical powers from his tank...Don't you know ulva is a natural aphrodisiac? HEY TY CAN I GET SOME MORE OF THAT ULVA?! another build thread dangerously close to slipping off the rails. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gig 'em @ NDstructible Posted October 25, 2016 Author Share Posted October 25, 2016 I try not to be too superstitious, but I did just get this yeti with a mandarin goby on it. Could be good luck fertility cup for mandarins [emoji23] 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo662 Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 I try not to be too superstitious, but I did just get this yeti with a mandarin goby on it. Could be good luck fertility cup for mandarins [emoji23] That is very cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 Hey, you're spoiling the surprise for my Christmas present man. You weren't supposed to let me see it early! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gig 'em @ NDstructible Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 A small news flash: I decided to take a play from Ty's play book and do an in situ treatment of my tank with Interceptor. I can't physically see any bite marks or any foreign bodies on my acros, but their health has been in decline for a few weeks and I can't seem to figure it out. I reduced my biopellet load in half because my PO4 and nitrates were near zero. I stopped dosing Acropower. I brought my Mg levels up from 1100 to 1290. Brought my Ca and alk levels up. Salinity has been a bit low lately, but that's been fixed. Still seeing thin acro flesh and I've lost one colony, one is barely hanging on, and one started RTNing at the base last night. When all else fails, bomb the tank to wipe out any possible pest that may be on the acros. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gig 'em @ NDstructible Posted October 28, 2016 Author Share Posted October 28, 2016 Another possible cause of my recent coral troubles that I've been having is my RO/DI water. I believe I had posted about this in the past, but I have had issues when my DI resin becomes saturated, goes bad, and then actually starts releasing nasties back into the filtered water. I'm pretty good about changing out filters and resin at 6 months, but apparently that's too long and I might need to switch to a 5 month rotation. The TDS was reading 0 when I first started filtering the other night, but when I tested the finished product, it was reading 3-4 in the brute, and 6 in another container. I opened up the DI and the water was definitely a bit cloudy and had that indistinguishable smell of old sea food. So I'm hopeful that over the past few weeks my DI resin has been leaching out something causing my coral PE to retract and kill off some of the more delicate colonies. I changed out the filters and DI resin and will perform a 20 gallon water change when I get home from work today. Hoping I've found the issue! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo662 Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 I added a 2nd DI canister to my set up. It helps catch anything that gets past the first canister. When the first canister shows almost completely depleted I move canister 2 up and put new resin in canister 1 and put in down in place of 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 I'd look into doing a full cleaning of your RO/DI setup. It sounds like bacterial bio-fouling to me. Resin shouldn't leach back into the water. As I think about it, you were complaining about your top off water tub smelling a few years back. I'd look up the best way to clean a RO/DI setup and maybe hit that up this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gig 'em @ NDstructible Posted October 28, 2016 Author Share Posted October 28, 2016 That's not a bad idea Jimbo, I might try that out. Seems like it's worth the extra canister and resin. I added a 2nd DI canister to my set up. It helps catch anything that gets past the first canister. When the first canister shows almost completely depleted I move canister 2 up and put new resin in canister 1 and put in down in place of 2. Yeah, my brute can always has some kind of funky smell after a while, maybe I need a circulation pump in there. I definitely rinsed it out last night and wiped it down. Could feel the slimy biofilm on the sides. Nothing I imagine could be harmful, it's such a low nutrient system that this bacteria is a first colonizer that doesn't really attack anything. I believe I read somewhere that once resin becomes depleted, it can start releasing stuff. I know that can happen with carbon, but I'll have to do some reading to verify. I'd look into doing a full cleaning of your RO/DI setup. It sounds like bacterial bio-fouling to me. Resin shouldn't leach back into the water.As I think about it, you were complaining about your top off water tub smelling a few years back. I'd look up the best way to clean a RO/DI setup and maybe hit that up this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 That's not a bad idea Jimbo, I might try that out. Seems like it's worth the extra canister and resin. I added a 2nd DI canister to my set up. It helps catch anything that gets past the first canister. When the first canister shows almost completely depleted I move canister 2 up and put new resin in canister 1 and put in down in place of 2. Yeah, my brute can always has some kind of funky smell after a while, maybe I need a circulation pump in there. I definitely rinsed it out last night and wiped it down. Could feel the slimy biofilm on the sides. Nothing I imagine could be harmful, it's such a low nutrient system that this bacteria is a first colonizer that doesn't really attack anything. I believe I read somewhere that once resin becomes depleted, it can start releasing stuff. I know that can happen with carbon, but I'll have to do some reading to verify. I'd look into doing a full cleaning of your RO/DI setup. It sounds like bacterial bio-fouling to me. Resin shouldn't leach back into the water. As I think about it, you were complaining about your top off water tub smelling a few years back. I'd look up the best way to clean a RO/DI setup and maybe hit that up this weekend. My RODI tub smells like cat must to me. Always has. I give it a nice vinegar wipe down every now and then. Definitely worth it for the dual DI stage! And I run a dual Carbon stage too. I've had the same DI resin for like 3 years without it depleting. What's your TDS going into the DI?! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gig 'em @ NDstructible Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 That's not a bad idea Jimbo, I might try that out. Seems like it's worth the extra canister and resin. I added a 2nd DI canister to my set up. It helps catch anything that gets past the first canister. When the first canister shows almost completely depleted I move canister 2 up and put new resin in canister 1 and put in down in place of 2. Yeah, my brute can always has some kind of funky smell after a while, maybe I need a circulation pump in there. I definitely rinsed it out last night and wiped it down. Could feel the slimy biofilm on the sides. Nothing I imagine could be harmful, it's such a low nutrient system that this bacteria is a first colonizer that doesn't really attack anything. I believe I read somewhere that once resin becomes depleted, it can start releasing stuff. I know that can happen with carbon, but I'll have to do some reading to verify. I'd look into doing a full cleaning of your RO/DI setup. It sounds like bacterial bio-fouling to me. Resin shouldn't leach back into the water. As I think about it, you were complaining about your top off water tub smelling a few years back. I'd look up the best way to clean a RO/DI setup and maybe hit that up this weekend. My RODI tub smells like cat must to me. Always has. I give it a nice vinegar wipe down every now and then. Definitely worth it for the dual DI stage! And I run a dual Carbon stage too. I've had the same DI resin for like 3 years without it depleting. What's your TDS going into the DI?! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk YES! That's exactly what the brute can smells like after the lid has been closed on it for a while, cats. 3 years without depleting?! Geez! Where are you getting your DI from? I'm not real positive about the TDS going into the DI. The cheap in line TDS meter says anywhere between 9 and 19 any given day. I don't know how much I can trust that thing. Back before my good in line TDS meter broke, it was usually around 8-12. I'm fairly certain now that it was the RO/DI water. The coral polyps are starting to come back out on my PO'd corals and I noticed that the anemones in the fish room trough were getting pissed off when I was topping off with the left over water from the old RO/DI reservoir. My corals will probably take a while to get back to full health, but I think I can draw a fair conclusion that the bad DI was the main culprit. I changed all kinds of other things, some of which needed to be changed, so some good came out of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 That's not a bad idea Jimbo, I might try that out. Seems like it's worth the extra canister and resin. I added a 2nd DI canister to my set up. It helps catch anything that gets past the first canister. When the first canister shows almost completely depleted I move canister 2 up and put new resin in canister 1 and put in down in place of 2. Yeah, my brute can always has some kind of funky smell after a while, maybe I need a circulation pump in there. I definitely rinsed it out last night and wiped it down. Could feel the slimy biofilm on the sides. Nothing I imagine could be harmful, it's such a low nutrient system that this bacteria is a first colonizer that doesn't really attack anything. I believe I read somewhere that once resin becomes depleted, it can start releasing stuff. I know that can happen with carbon, but I'll have to do some reading to verify. I'd look into doing a full cleaning of your RO/DI setup. It sounds like bacterial bio-fouling to me. Resin shouldn't leach back into the water. As I think about it, you were complaining about your top off water tub smelling a few years back. I'd look up the best way to clean a RO/DI setup and maybe hit that up this weekend. My RODI tub smells like cat must to me. Always has. I give it a nice vinegar wipe down every now and then.Definitely worth it for the dual DI stage! And I run a dual Carbon stage too. I've had the same DI resin for like 3 years without it depleting. What's your TDS going into the DI?! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk YES! That's exactly what the brute can smells like after the lid has been closed on it for a while, cats.3 years without depleting?! Geez! Where are you getting your DI from? I'm not real positive about the TDS going into the DI. The cheap in line TDS meter says anywhere between 9 and 19 any given day. I don't know how much I can trust that thing. Back before my good in line TDS meter broke, it was usually around 8-12. I'm fairly certain now that it was the RO/DI water. The coral polyps are starting to come back out on my PO'd corals and I noticed that the anemones in the fish room trough were getting pissed off when I was topping off with the left over water from the old RO/DI reservoir. My corals will probably take a while to get back to full health, but I think I can draw a fair conclusion that the bad DI was the main culprit. I changed all kinds of other things, some of which needed to be changed, so some good came out of it. It's the color change resin from BRS. I always have less than 10 tds going into the dual Di stage. Works great. Do you flush your membranes? Highly recommended! Also bypassing the Di for a minute or 2 when you first start to make water. (I give it to my dogs!) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gig 'em @ NDstructible Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 That's not a bad idea Jimbo, I might try that out. Seems like it's worth the extra canister and resin. I added a 2nd DI canister to my set up. It helps catch anything that gets past the first canister. When the first canister shows almost completely depleted I move canister 2 up and put new resin in canister 1 and put in down in place of 2. Yeah, my brute can always has some kind of funky smell after a while, maybe I need a circulation pump in there. I definitely rinsed it out last night and wiped it down. Could feel the slimy biofilm on the sides. Nothing I imagine could be harmful, it's such a low nutrient system that this bacteria is a first colonizer that doesn't really attack anything. I believe I read somewhere that once resin becomes depleted, it can start releasing stuff. I know that can happen with carbon, but I'll have to do some reading to verify. I'd look into doing a full cleaning of your RO/DI setup. It sounds like bacterial bio-fouling to me. Resin shouldn't leach back into the water. As I think about it, you were complaining about your top off water tub smelling a few years back. I'd look up the best way to clean a RO/DI setup and maybe hit that up this weekend. My RODI tub smells like cat must to me. Always has. I give it a nice vinegar wipe down every now and then.Definitely worth it for the dual DI stage! And I run a dual Carbon stage too. I've had the same DI resin for like 3 years without it depleting. What's your TDS going into the DI?! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk YES! That's exactly what the brute can smells like after the lid has been closed on it for a while, cats.3 years without depleting?! Geez! Where are you getting your DI from? I'm not real positive about the TDS going into the DI. The cheap in line TDS meter says anywhere between 9 and 19 any given day. I don't know how much I can trust that thing. Back before my good in line TDS meter broke, it was usually around 8-12. I'm fairly certain now that it was the RO/DI water. The coral polyps are starting to come back out on my PO'd corals and I noticed that the anemones in the fish room trough were getting pissed off when I was topping off with the left over water from the old RO/DI reservoir. My corals will probably take a while to get back to full health, but I think I can draw a fair conclusion that the bad DI was the main culprit. I changed all kinds of other things, some of which needed to be changed, so some good came out of it. It's the color change resin from BRS. I always have less than 10 tds going into the dual Di stage. Works great. Do you flush your membranes? Highly recommended! Also bypassing the Di for a minute or 2 when you first start to make water. (I give it to my dogs!) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Yeah I usually bypass the DI for about 10-15 minutes and water the plants with it. My DI resin is a bulk bag I bought from air water ice. It's not vacuum sealed like BRS, so I wonder if that shortens its life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 I flush my membranes each time for 1 min and run the the system with a Di bypass for about 2 mins or until the tds goes below 10. I'm serious... I've had the same Di resin for probably 3 years and get 0 tds out of them every time Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gig 'em @ NDstructible Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 That's pretty crazy. What are the RO filters you're using? Sediment, 5 micron and 1 micron? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 I flush my membranes each time for 1 min and run the the system with a Di bypass for about 2 mins or until the tds goes below 10. I'm serious... I've had the same Di resin for probably 3 years and get 0 tds out of them every time Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I almost don't believe it! You're doing the exact thing I'm doing and almost the same TDS values I'm getting and I have to replace DI every 7-8 months with no water changes, just top off.What TDS meter are you using? Like Gigem posted, what prefilters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 I flush my membranes each time for 1 min and run the the system with a Di bypass for about 2 mins or until the tds goes below 10. I'm serious... I've had the same Di resin for probably 3 years and get 0 tds out of them every time Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I almost don't believe it! You're doing the exact thing I'm doing and almost the same TDS values I'm getting and I have to replace DI every 7-8 months with no water changes, just top off.What TDS meter are you using? Like Gigem posted, what prefilters? I'd have to look when I get home to confirm, 1 Micron Sediment Dual carbon, I think it's the Chloramine kind, even though I don't have chloramines. 75 gpd membrane with BRS water saver upgrade kit ( so 2 75gpd membranes) Dual Di stage using BRS color changing resin Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Oh, and the dual inline tds meter also from BRS Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 And I do run a booster pump Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gig 'em @ NDstructible Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 Have you ever checked your tap water TDS before filtering it? What water supply are you on out there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Have you ever checked your tap water TDS before filtering it? What water supply are you on out there? They did tell me a water softener system wasn't worth it for me when I had my tap tested. Wilbarger creek mud Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 Here's my setup Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 Here's my setup Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Where is your 2nd 75 gpd membrane you mentioned? Is it behind the one pictured? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.