+SChrisEV Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 As I've posted before I've been having a hard time keeping SPS alive. I've chased alkalinity all over the place, too high because I run bio pellets, then too low. A gave up trying SPS for a while until I had my parameters "good" aka in an acceptable range and stable. That was a little over a month ago. So I decided to give it a go again. Picked up some pretty basic SPS, couple types of birds nest and some Purple Stylo. As before they were doing great, even showed growth, and good polyp extension. This lasted a few weeks. Then I noticed that the Stylo was not doing so well, polyp were not opening on one side/section of the coral. A week later, one of the birds nest, that has great polyp extension suddenly had a couple areas in the middle of the stick that were bare. Seems that each day it got worse. On the top and bottom of the coral is the only part that has any polyp or at least it looks that way, but the top an bottom are FULL of polyps. I'm wondering, would I have an animal in the tank that is causing this? I DO have a potters angle, it was my first thought, so over the weekend I kept a really good eye on him, and not once did I see him nip at anything. other than the glass, rock and food I fed. Also I feel like this might be happening at night. This is hard to confirm because I work out of the house, so I'm gone much of the day. I have two skunk cleaner shrimp, a coral banded shrimp, and at least one peppermint shrimp left in the tank. Do any of those sound like a possible culprit? Any other ideas? I'm kinda past the idea that my parameters are the issue. Just to be complete: ALK: 8.29 dhk CA: 446 Mag: 1320 PO4: .01 (Hanna, I suspect this might not be right, but it is a consistent read, I have some nuisance algae that is likely taking some of the PO4 from the water column as food.) I like having the cleaners as they do a decent job cleaning the fish and produce a natural food source often via babies. The coral banded is kinda cool looking, but to be honest I never seem him. The peppermints were added to go after some aiptasia, but hey NEVER did anything to help... Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jolt Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 A couple of thoughts: What is your salinity, and temp? When was the last time you changed your RO/DI media out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Also, remind me of your lights you are using. Any idea what your nitrates are? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 I ALSO HAVE QUESTIONS. how are you measuring alk? do you happen to have a chart over time of your alk? 8.XX is fine, but it's not fine if it was 10 yesterday and 6 tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+SChrisEV Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 Good questions that I should have posted. Temp is maintained with a header and a fan. My APEX shows an average of 77.67, Min of 76.9 max of 78.7. Salinity is tested manually with a refractometer, but with a consistent read of 1.025 For RO/DI: I deplete DI resin very fast (not sure why) but I have not changed the other filters for > 6 months. DTS is always a 0 until I need to change the DI resin, then at 0 again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Good questions that I should have posted. Temp is maintained with a header and a fan. My APEX shows an average of 77.67, Min of 76.9 max of 78.7. Salinity is tested manually with a refractometer, but with a consistent read of 1.025 For RO/DI: I deplete DI resin very fast (not sure why) but I have not changed the other filters for > 6 months. DTS is always a 0 until I need to change the DI resin, then at 0 again. I was going through DI resin like crazy, until I got the Flush kit from BRS. It lasts forever now! Totally worth it. Also make sure the first minute or so you don't send the water through the DI stage until it has a chance to drop the TDS to below 10 or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+SChrisEV Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 Also, remind me of your lights you are using. Any idea what your nitrates are? I have three BUILD My LED. All different spectrum. One 20K multi channel, one custom atinic with UV, one of their "custom reef". I did add the 20K multi channel a few months back (part of their beta) but had great success with the lights before I moved my tank. As for nitrates, I don't test often because of form MONTHS is not since I moved in Jan 2014 I have had 0 nitrates, at least undetectable with the API test kids, I know they are not very good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+SChrisEV Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 I ALSO HAVE QUESTIONS. how are you measuring alk? do you happen to have a chart over time of your alk? 8.XX is fine, but it's not fine if it was 10 yesterday and 6 tomorrow. I've had a little bit of a swing while I was dialing in my dosing. But I mean the swing is in the 8.XX range. 8.06 - 8.68 over the last month. I know no swing is ideal, but is the enough to cause this? Before I was stable i the 8s I did have a big swing, but as stated above that was my trying to drop it down, and dropped it too low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+SChrisEV Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 Good questions that I should have posted. Temp is maintained with a header and a fan. My APEX shows an average of 77.67, Min of 76.9 max of 78.7. Salinity is tested manually with a refractometer, but with a consistent read of 1.025 For RO/DI: I deplete DI resin very fast (not sure why) but I have not changed the other filters for > 6 months. DTS is always a 0 until I need to change the DI resin, then at 0 again. I was going through DI resin like crazy, until I got the Flush kit from BRS. It lasts forever now! Totally worth it. Also make sure the first minute or so you don't send the water through the DI stage until it has a chance to drop the TDS to below 10 or so. Yeah I have a flush kit, and I run it a couple minute at the start and end of each batch, I still burn through a ton. I am ONLY making 5g of RODI water at a time right now. I need to setup my 50g drums again, small legistis issue in the house I am renting. But I have a plan to address that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 a swing of 0.5 dkh in a month isn't really too bad. Lots of heavy SPS tanks swing that much on a daily basis just due to consumption. still though, are you measuring with a hanna? if so are you using a correction factor? There is some speculation that the hanna reads high by like 13%, which would put you on the low end of safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+SChrisEV Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 a swing of 0.5 dkh in a month isn't really too bad. Lots of heavy SPS tanks swing that much on a daily basis just due to consumption. still though, are you measuring with a hanna? if so are you using a correction factor? There is some speculation that the hanna reads high by like 13%, which would put you on the low end of safe. I am using the hanna, "correction factor"? The fact I have to ask make me think maybe not. I am following the directions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+SChrisEV Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 Good questions that I should have posted. Temp is maintained with a header and a fan. My APEX shows an average of 77.67, Min of 76.9 max of 78.7. Salinity is tested manually with a refractometer, but with a consistent read of 1.025 For RO/DI: I deplete DI resin very fast (not sure why) but I have not changed the other filters for > 6 months. DTS is always a 0 until I need to change the DI resin, then at 0 again. I was going through DI resin like crazy, until I got the Flush kit from BRS. It lasts forever now! Totally worth it. Also make sure the first minute or so you don't send the water through the DI stage until it has a chance to drop the TDS to below 10 or so. I missed the last part, about not sending the first bit to the DI stage. Thanks Juiceman, I'll give that a try. I need to start making a LOT of water for the new tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gig 'em @ NDstructible Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 I'm sure with your RO/DI your fresh water is fine, but have you checked it for chloramines? Is your tank an open top tank? Are you doing any kind of maintenance in the house that would cause debris or chemicals to enter the water column? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Good questions that I should have posted. Temp is maintained with a header and a fan. My APEX shows an average of 77.67, Min of 76.9 max of 78.7. Salinity is tested manually with a refractometer, but with a consistent read of 1.025 For RO/DI: I deplete DI resin very fast (not sure why) but I have not changed the other filters for > 6 months. DTS is always a 0 until I need to change the DI resin, then at 0 again. I was going through DI resin like crazy, until I got the Flush kit from BRS. It lasts forever now! Totally worth it. Also make sure the first minute or so you don't send the water through the DI stage until it has a chance to drop the TDS to below 10 or so. I missed the last part, about not sending the first bit to the DI stage. Thanks Juiceman, I'll give that a try. I need to start making a LOT of water for the new tank. Depending on your water source, the first minute or more of Water is very high TDS, and it will deplete the DI VERY FAST! I haven't had to replace my DI in probably a Year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+SChrisEV Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 Good questions that I should have posted. Temp is maintained with a header and a fan. My APEX shows an average of 77.67, Min of 76.9 max of 78.7. Salinity is tested manually with a refractometer, but with a consistent read of 1.025 For RO/DI: I deplete DI resin very fast (not sure why) but I have not changed the other filters for > 6 months. DTS is always a 0 until I need to change the DI resin, then at 0 again. I was going through DI resin like crazy, until I got the Flush kit from BRS. It lasts forever now! Totally worth it. Also make sure the first minute or so you don't send the water through the DI stage until it has a chance to drop the TDS to below 10 or so. I missed the last part, about not sending the first bit to the DI stage. Thanks Juiceman, I'll give that a try. I need to start making a LOT of water for the new tank. Depending on your water source, the first minute or more of Water is very high TDS, and it will deplete the DI VERY FAST! I haven't had to replace my DI in probably a Year. I have noticed that with the meter, it is super high in the beginning. I should have thought to do that myself!! My end result was 0 DTS, but I've used a large amount of resin over the last year $$$. Again thanks for pointing that out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Good questions that I should have posted. Temp is maintained with a header and a fan. My APEX shows an average of 77.67, Min of 76.9 max of 78.7. Salinity is tested manually with a refractometer, but with a consistent read of 1.025 For RO/DI: I deplete DI resin very fast (not sure why) but I have not changed the other filters for > 6 months. DTS is always a 0 until I need to change the DI resin, then at 0 again. I was going through DI resin like crazy, until I got the Flush kit from BRS. It lasts forever now! Totally worth it. Also make sure the first minute or so you don't send the water through the DI stage until it has a chance to drop the TDS to below 10 or so. I missed the last part, about not sending the first bit to the DI stage. Thanks Juiceman, I'll give that a try. I need to start making a LOT of water for the new tank. Depending on your water source, the first minute or more of Water is very high TDS, and it will deplete the DI VERY FAST! I haven't had to replace my DI in probably a Year. I have noticed that with the meter, it is super high in the beginning. I should have thought to do that myself!! My end result was 0 DTS, but I've used a large amount of resin over the last year $$$. Again thanks for pointing that out! I have a T in the line before the DI stage that T's to a Ball Valve. I open it and let the water go into a Jug until the TDS from the Membrane goes under 10 TDS. Then I shut the Valve and let it go through the DI stage. I give that RO water to the Dogs, since it's still pretty filtered. Been loving the savings! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 a swing of 0.5 dkh in a month isn't really too bad. Lots of heavy SPS tanks swing that much on a daily basis just due to consumption. still though, are you measuring with a hanna? if so are you using a correction factor? There is some speculation that the hanna reads high by like 13%, which would put you on the low end of safe. I am using the hanna, "correction factor"? The fact I have to ask make me think maybe not. I am following the directions. A little light reading: http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/chemistry/117089-hanna-alkalinity-checker-reading-high.html Basically, some suggest that you should correct your readings to 0.82x the hanna reading. It may vary on tank to tank chemistry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+SChrisEV Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 a swing of 0.5 dkh in a month isn't really too bad. Lots of heavy SPS tanks swing that much on a daily basis just due to consumption. still though, are you measuring with a hanna? if so are you using a correction factor? There is some speculation that the hanna reads high by like 13%, which would put you on the low end of safe. I am using the hanna, "correction factor"? The fact I have to ask make me think maybe not. I am following the directions. A little light reading: http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/chemistry/117089-hanna-alkalinity-checker-reading-high.html Basically, some suggest that you should correct your readings to 0.82x the hanna reading. It may vary on tank to tank chemistry. WOW, thanks for the link. For ALL Hanna testers need to be adjusted by this factor? That is crazy stupid. I don't expect any test kit to be prefect or really even close to perfect, too many factors, a large one is us humans filling water to a line... but 18%, and what appears to be known, and provable... So I guess I'll raise my Alk up a bit to adjust for this. Even if it was not 18% off I will still be in an acceptable range. At this point I just want to get it "right" so I can keep those silly sticks in my little section of the ocean! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manny Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Sure it's not shadowing due to LEDs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+SChrisEV Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 Shadowing? As in literally shadows? If so no. I purposefully placed the different pieces at different location, and heights in the tank. Not a fear of not enough but rather too much. I have never done par readings in my tank, but before I moved with two Build My LEDs I had great success with these lights. I was able to keep and grow any SPS that I put in the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Before you go changing stuff, cross-check with a salifert if you have one handy. If not, you can borrow mine. I haven't done a really exhaustive sampling duplication effort to confirm/deny what boomer was saying, but from personal experience it seems to be true. if you check out my spreadsheet , in columns J-O, i keep and convert from a raw alkalinity to a "corrected one" and also show the various unit types. Check out what happens on corrected vs raw in terms of charts: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Jim and I cross checked our hanna meters to the Hanna standard and also with the Red Sea test. My correction factor came out to be 6%, so not too far off. I don't remember what Jim's was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jolt Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Mine was 1% Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 That's great correlation! Something to consider though is that the reference standard is at 100 ppm, and 100 is below our testing rage. They should have made it more like 150 ppm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 That's great correlation! Something to consider though is that the reference standard is at 100 ppm, and 100 is below our testing rage. They should have made it more like 150 ppm...Good point! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.