Wade Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 I've got several different kind of zoas and the only ones that are not doing well are some blue ones. Not sure of the exact name, but they've got bright blue centers with a dark blue skirt. They were doing fine for a few weeks after I got them, but now they stay closed all the time and just seem to be melting away. Is there something special that they require from other zoas? More light, less light? They're on the sb now. They were in a less light are of the sb and are now right under them, but no difference. I guess i'll move them to a very low light area and see if they recover. I would try to direct feed them some coral fenzy or something, but I'd think there would have to be some PE for them to get any benefit from that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 keep em low for a while. anecdotally I've observed that blue zoas seem to be more light sensitive, and the only zoas ive had melt away had big blue components (tubbs, blue agave). Also check to see if there is anything intra-polyp that is irritating them into closing (algae or some critter getting in there). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted April 14, 2014 Author Share Posted April 14, 2014 yeah I can a little puff of something, but I can't tell what it is. The picture is all blue'd out of course, but you can see it just left of center. It's looks brown in the tank. I'm charging the battery on my regular camera to see if I can get a better shot. I guess I could pull the frag out and inspect it up close and remove whatever is on there. Wearing gloves and goggles of course:) Suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robb in Austin Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 I'm not 100% but I think anything blue (zoas, rics, etc) are generally deep water species and, as such, require less light than brighter colored species. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted April 15, 2014 Author Share Posted April 15, 2014 I've moved it under an overhang at the edge of the light. Not shade but not full light either. I also picked whatever that was off of it with some tweezers. There was a single bubble algae bubble on the back side of the rock I took off as well. Wasn't anywhere near the zoa but needed to go . By the way, nothing in a bubble algae bubble that could hurt your eye is there? **** thing has great aim. I know I should always wear goggles, but my only intention was moving it until I saw the bubble and reached for my tweezers. Next time I'll reach for my goggles first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esacjack Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 your zoas likely reacting to lighting conditions as previously mentioned (and based on your picture) I assume this is an LED lit tank, so as vic said, they definitely need to be moved to the sand bed. I have those particular zoas and the name escapes me, but I have full months where they look as though they are dying. Then poof, they snap out of it. Also, how is the flow around them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted April 15, 2014 Author Share Posted April 15, 2014 The flow around them should be low to moderate intermittent. It is an LED lit tank, but they've always been on the bottom. If they prefer lower flow, then maybe that was it. They were placed opposite of the wavebox so I'm not sure if that had any affect on them. They'r out of direct light and flow now so I'll see how they react, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 you can do a h202 dip on them to kill any algae thats inbetween the polyps. put em in a small container and add a capful of h202 at a time until you start to see bubbling. let em hang out for 15 minutes or so and then rinse and put em back in tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted April 15, 2014 Author Share Posted April 15, 2014 Just RO/DI? I'm guessing just start with a quart sized container about 1/4 to 1/2 full and add a cap full (tblspn?) of RO/DI until the frag starts to bubble? Is that correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 tank water is the base water. add in small amounts of h202 to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted April 15, 2014 Author Share Posted April 15, 2014 Cool. What other coral does this work on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 I only do it on zoas and palys. I've had ill effect on SPS with it and have never tried LPS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted April 15, 2014 Author Share Posted April 15, 2014 No worries. I'll stick to using it on zoas and palys only. Good to know though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 No change in the zoas. I did not do the h202 dip, jut have had them in low light. I also can no longer see anything between the polyps that may be irritating them. Just took these pics as the lights were dimming and there's less blue light to make my iPhone wig out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 Now that I can look at them much larger in this picture, it seems like maybe there are some other type of polyp on the rock with them (bottom right corner). What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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