ceastman Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 It appears that my Iwaki MD-70RLT pumps - 2 for the returns and 1 for the skimmer are generating a good amount of heat. My tank is now at 78.1, the ambient temperature in my house is 74 degrees. I would really not like to have to attach my chiller up (which would increase the monthly costs). The two return pumps have a tee in line with them to control the rate of water returning to the main tank so it doesn't overflow. I have the flow regulated so I should be able to use a smaller return pump but have it run full bore. I was thinking of replacing the Iwaki MD-70RLT pumps with a Pan World 100PX-X Pan world Max Flow: 1270 GPH Max Head: 13 Ft 1” Inlet(MPT)/ 1” Outlet(MPT) 130 watts vs Iwaki Japanese Motor Max Flow: 1536 GPH Max Head: 31.8 Ft 1” Inlet(MPT)/ 1” Outlet(MPT) Max Amps: 2.8 Motor Output: 1/4 HP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mFrame Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 You're running a 240g? Wow, that's a lot of heat from three pumps! You've eliminated your lights and any heaters from the equation? I've got a 230g with a few in-sump pumps (return, gfo/carbon reactor) and have noticed no significant impact on temperature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceastman Posted December 12, 2013 Author Share Posted December 12, 2013 I don't have any lights, the heater is temperature controlled. The Iwaki pumps are roughly 8 years old and feel warm to the touch. I do have 3 tunze in the display tank that are circulating water, which are also 8 years old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 When you add up the wattage from 3 iwakis, it's like having nearly a 900w heater running 24/7 ! I'd reevaluate your pumping needs and see if you can get rid of some pumps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceastman Posted December 12, 2013 Author Share Posted December 12, 2013 When you add up the wattage from 3 iwakis, it's like having nearly a 900w heater running 24/7 ! I'd reevaluate your pumping needs and see if you can get rid of some pumps. Yeah that's why I was looking at the Pan-world pump, a little less gph and half the wattage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 if youre going apex, check out the DC pumps that are flow controllable (jebao, speedwave, diablo, etc.). really high flow, low heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceastman Posted December 12, 2013 Author Share Posted December 12, 2013 I also have acrylic covers for the openings on the display tank, should I go with DIY screens instead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceastman Posted March 14, 2014 Author Share Posted March 14, 2014 Victoly, Do I need a special cable to control the reef octopus diablo return pump? I was looking at replacing my two Iwaki 70rlt with two diablo DC-5500. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 If you want to control via the apex, yes you do need a special cable to control the pumps. They come with controllers that are not compatible that can still scale up and down the flow, but if you want to control the pump speed via apex, you have to get a special cable, that isn't really manufactured by anyone (that I know of). I've made a few and could help you out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madsalt Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 It appears that my Iwaki MD-70RLT pumps - 2 for the returns and 1 for the skimmer are generating a good amount of heat. My tank is now at 78.1, the ambient temperature in my house is 74 degrees. I would really not like to have to attach my chiller up (which would increase the monthly costs). The two return pumps have a tee in line with them to control the rate of water returning to the main tank so it doesn't overflow. I have the flow regulated so I should be able to use a smaller return pump but have it run full bore. I was thinking of replacing the Iwaki MD-70RLT pumps with a Pan World 100PX-X Pan world Max Flow: 1270 GPH Max Head: 13 Ft 1” Inlet(MPT)/ 1” Outlet(MPT) 130 watts vs Iwaki Japanese Motor Max Flow: 1536 GPH Max Head: 31.8 Ft 1” Inlet(MPT)/ 1” Outlet(MPT) Max Amps: 2.8 Motor Output: 1/4 HP If you end up swapping pumps I would be highly interested in buying one of these if you decided to sell them. I am looking for one to use on my saltwater mixing station Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 Couple of quick questions. Do the acrylic covers fully close off the tank on top? Meaning not much ventilation to tank? What's the average temperature of the back sump room you have setup? Here's my observations and best guess of your heat source depending on your answers to the questions above: 1) You acrylic cover is not allowing enough ventilation and water surface/air interchange, basically created an enclosed area for heat to build up and not be released via water surface interchange 2) Your sump room felt really hot when I was there last. Possible lack of air exchange in that room could be adding to your heat problem. All 3 pumps were housed in that room and they all air cool, basically heating up that sump room. That, would defeat the purpose of external pumps for reducing heat transfer to the tank as it would heat the air in the sump room and transfer the heat via surface water exchange. I think its your lack of ventilation with the acrylic covers to the tank and the warm sump room causing your heat. You could downgrade your external pumps but honestly, I don't think they are directly affecting your heat issue as they are run externally. I could imagine running 3 Mag18's submersed in the sump causing your heat issues but not 3 external Iwaki's of similar rating. Just my 2 cents. If it were me, I'd just run one Iwaki 70 and call it a day for your return. That's plenty of turnover for your tank. I had an Iwaki 40 for my 210g and that was more than enough, I even dialed it back. I know your skimmer requires you to run a 2nd one since it's a beckett style skiimmer so you can't really change that without buying a new skimmer. I would also switch to clear netting for a cover in the main display and then make sure my sump room temperature isn't too hot. Perhaps just leave the vent on all day for a couple of days and see if your ambient temperatures drop in your tank. Hope it helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 Another option is to get some evaporative cooling going, since youre already using a controller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceastman Posted March 14, 2014 Author Share Posted March 14, 2014 I removed the acrylic covers awhile back. I added a fan to the fish/sump room. I got a 2nd temp prob for the pm2 module for the salinity, so I took the first temp probe from the base unit and put that on the back of the chiller to track ambient temperature. I was also looking at reducing my electrical costs so those DC pumps are looking pretty attractive from that standpoint as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 I got two simple $9.99 clip on fans on my sump, controlled via the Apex, and it does wonders for my heat control. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 I removed the acrylic covers awhile back. I added a fan to the fish/sump room. I got a 2nd temp prob for the pm2 module for the salinity, so I took the first temp probe from the base unit and put that on the back of the chiller to track ambient temperature. I was also looking at reducing my electrical costs so those DC pumps are looking pretty attractive from that standpoint as well. Do you have a fan blowing over your sump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceastman Posted March 14, 2014 Author Share Posted March 14, 2014 No but sounds like I should be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 Yeah, much more effective if they are actually blowing over the water surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+SChrisEV Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 Hey Ty where did you get your fans, if you don't mind me asking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 Walmart, in their cooling section. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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