Wade Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 I'm thinking about adding some plant life to my DT. Some nice looking macros and maybe some photosynthetic gorgonians like the purple ribbon migh tbe nice. I know the gotgonian isn't a plant, but it looks and moves like one. Anyway, would halimeda be a good choice or is it pain in the rear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Monnat Jr Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 I like it, especially since my wife is from Hawaii. The only downside is having it go sexual, but I think that craps up the system whether it's in the sump or DT. You might have to pull the white carcasses/skeletons from the DT if you don't like how they look. At least the calcium may get back into the system (maybe not, but could be crumbled into substrate material). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted November 15, 2013 Author Share Posted November 15, 2013 So what exactly happens when a macro goes sexual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Monnat Jr Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 Things to Watch Out For: The biggest concern the aquarist should have regarding macro algae isif the "plant", (macro algae is not really a vascular plant, but theterm "plant" is commonly used both in the hobby and in scientificjournals), has a tendency to "go sexual". When macro algae goes sexual,it releases spores into the water to reproduce somewhere else, normallybecause it is dying. This is normally a result of poor lighting, lackof nutrients or lack of pruning. The problem is twofold; one extranutrients from the plant are released into the water which may raisenitrate and phosphorous levels, but more importantly the plant willrespire more than normal. The nutrients problem is a small one, and if the dead plant mattercan be removed, the remaining macros will absorb the extra nutrients andthe balance will be restored. On the other hand the respiration is abit more serious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planeden Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 ok, i had to look it up. i must say, it looks nice. i may be interested in adding it. i found an article that is pretty detailed about it, including some pros/cons. i have not finished reading, though. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-04/nftt/ george is smarter than me, but with my feather calurpa it went sexual often when i first put it into the system. but eventually things balanced out and it hasn't had that loving feeling in months. so, i'm not sure if this is just my experience or has to do with the species. but i figured i'd throw it out there. a quick note from the linked article. it said that it pulls out calcium from the water as much as a stoney coral. so, it will compete with them if you have them. they said with most people it isn't really an issue because they dose calcium anyway and that it is as good of a way to test for calcium as any test kit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Monnat Jr Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 I had to revert back to FW, so I wouldn't say I'm smarter 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planeden Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 Things to Watch Out For: On the other hand the respiration is a bit more serious. hey george, what is the problem with the heavy breathing? will it alter the Ph? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planeden Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 I had to revert back to FW, so I wouldn't say I'm smarter i would. i haven't gotten far enough into SW to know if i need to revery back. it if were me, i'd weigh your advice more heavily than mine . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Monnat Jr Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 The nutrients problem is a small one, and if the dead plant mattercan be removed, the remaining macros will absorb the extra nutrients andthe balance will be restored. On the other hand the respiration is abit more serious. Macros give off oxygen during the day, and will release some carbon dioxideat night. This is natural, and not cause for much concern. If thelighting in your tank fails for extended periods of time, or the plantsgo sexual for some other reason it will respire more than normal andrelease more carbon dioxide than it would usually release. This canbecome problematic, as water that is super saturated with carbon dioxideis likely to have ph fluctuations. If the fluctuation is severe, it cancause deaths in the tank. There are some tried and true ways of dealing with this potentialproblem. The first and best way is to have your main tank attached toanother tank like a refugium or sump that operates on a separate or a"reverse photocycle". (Which basically means when the lights in one tankare on the other tank's lights are off, and vice versa). By having onetank releasing oxygen while the other is releasing carbon dioxide thesystem will remain in balance. Another way is to try to keep a goodcurrent in your tank so that a natural air mixture is achieved. If youare a beginner, you should try to stay away from algae that have atendency to go sexual (like caulerpa for example). We keep riskevaluations on all the macros we sell, which you can read about in our Growing Guide Section. Cautionary language is also included where applicable in our product descriptions. Don't let this potential problem scare you away from trying to keepmacro algae. We have had many plants go sexual on us, and our tanks havenever crashed because of this problem. This is just one of those thingsyou should be aware of as you build your marine planted tank. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 I always liked the look of Halimeda but I've never been a macro in the DT type of guy. If I was to put a macro in the DT, it would be Halimeda for sure though. The main reason I removed Halimeda from my system was because it is a calcareous algae and I would prefer the Ca go to my SPS and not algae. Sorry algae, I do have a favorite... and it's not you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planeden Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 Great. Thanks George. If you are a beginner, you should try to stay away from algae that have a tendency to go sexual (like caulerpa for example). whoops.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted November 16, 2013 Share Posted November 16, 2013 I've got so much halimeda in my display it's annoying. It spreads too easy and eats as much calcium and alk as acropora do. It has helped keep my nitrates low but also kinda muddys up the look of things. It DOES give the display more of a natural look rather than a cartoon colored sps reef (even though I strive for those colors). I'll say this...it does some good things. Has some benefits...but if I could totally eradicate it from the tank I would. Nothing eats it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Grog Posted November 16, 2013 Share Posted November 16, 2013 I have had no luck with halimeda. I've bought it 3 times and it dies a terrible death. Cool looking but I know when to call it quits. Guess it isn't for my tank. Pretty much every other macro I've had better success with than halimeda, some too much success. Get one that you like the shape and color of. My only warning is to not put sargassum in your tank. If it likes your tank it will be a sargassum tank, not a mixed reef. Sargassum is a PITA to remove when it gets hold. As far as gorgs go.... I don't believe that ribbon gorgs are photosynthetic. They have little fine white polyps and filter feed. NPS gorgs and sea fans can be a tough critter to keep alive if you are low-nutrient. I'm fairly high-nutrient and feed Oyster Feast and Cyclopese every other day. Macros can help you balance the high-nutrients. OTOH: The brown candelabra gorgs are definitely photosynthetic. In my experience, all the gorgs I've kept enjoy very high flow. (photo or not). I have one with a powerhead pointed directly at it and it is happy as can be. Ribbons will shed their skin periodically. Looks like skin peeling from a sunburn. My understanding is this is a cleaning method for them. They do this less under higher flow with makes sense to me. This is the next fan I want. http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=597+601+1160&pcatid=1160 I totally enjoy both gorgs and macros. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subsea Posted November 16, 2013 Share Posted November 16, 2013 I also like gorgonians and macros. The Gulf of Mexico is prolific with biodiversity especially in the variety of choices for red macros. Russ at GulfCoast EcoSystems is a very good source for information. ReefCleaners is predominatly Atlantic varieties. Both companies have operations in the Florida Keys. As a good durable candidate, try Gracilaria Hayi. It is heavy on the calcium uptake, which makes it to be less than tasty to grazing fish and herbivores in general. IMO, it is a beautiful display macro that thrives in all lighting situations. Try it, you may like it. Patrick PS. The third picture shows orange/yellow change of color tint as compared to dark burgundy when under more subdued lighting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted November 16, 2013 Author Share Posted November 16, 2013 I do not have a nutrient problem which concerns me that I may not be able to keep it alive. The advice has been excellent as always. I think for now I'm going to go with a photosynthetic gorgonian to achieve the look I want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subsea Posted November 16, 2013 Share Posted November 16, 2013 Wade, Is this the same tank with cyno problems a few months go? Patrick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted November 16, 2013 Share Posted November 16, 2013 Not trying to convince you to use halimeda, but it can grow just as well in super low nutrients. It actually really exploded when I started running gfo and carbon and dosing kalkwasser Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted November 16, 2013 Author Share Posted November 16, 2013 Yeah this is the same tank. Cyano or whatever it was is gone now. The tank is looking great and I've seen growth on my SPS, LPS, and softies. I replaced about 20% of my substrate with cc. I plane to replace maybe another 20% within the next couple of months, but want to leave some of the finer substrate for coral like my plate that seem to like the finer things in life:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.