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Is Halimeda macro a good choice for a DT?


Wade

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I'm thinking about adding some plant life to my DT. Some nice looking macros and maybe some photosynthetic gorgonians like the purple ribbon migh tbe nice. I know the gotgonian isn't a plant, but it looks and moves like one. Anyway, would halimeda be a good choice or is it pain in the rear?

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I like it, especially since my wife is from Hawaii. The only downside is having it go sexual, but I think that craps up the system whether it's in the sump or DT. You might have to pull the white carcasses/skeletons from the DT if you don't like how they look. At least the calcium may get back into the system (maybe not, but could be crumbled into substrate material).

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Things to Watch Out For:


The biggest concern the aquarist should have regarding macro algae is
if the "plant", (macro algae is not really a vascular plant, but the
term "plant" is commonly used both in the hobby and in scientific
journals), has a tendency to "go sexual". When macro algae goes sexual,
it releases spores into the water to reproduce somewhere else, normally
because it is dying. This is normally a result of poor lighting, lack
of nutrients or lack of pruning. The problem is twofold; one extra
nutrients from the plant are released into the water which may raise
nitrate and phosphorous levels, but more importantly the plant will
respire more than normal.


The nutrients problem is a small one, and if the dead plant matter
can be removed, the remaining macros will absorb the extra nutrients and
the balance will be restored. On the other hand the respiration is a
bit more serious.

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ok, i had to look it up. i must say, it looks nice. i may be interested in adding it. i found an article that is pretty detailed about it, including some pros/cons. i have not finished reading, though.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-04/nftt/

george is smarter than me, but with my feather calurpa it went sexual often when i first put it into the system. but eventually things balanced out and it hasn't had that loving feeling in months. so, i'm not sure if this is just my experience or has to do with the species. but i figured i'd throw it out there.

a quick note from the linked article. it said that it pulls out calcium from the water as much as a stoney coral. so, it will compete with them if you have them. they said with most people it isn't really an issue because they dose calcium anyway and that it is as good of a way to test for calcium as any test kit.

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The nutrients problem is a small one, and if the dead plant matter
can be removed, the remaining macros will absorb the extra nutrients and
the balance will be restored. On the other hand the respiration is a
bit more serious.


Macros give off oxygen during the day, and will release some carbon dioxide
at night. This is natural, and not cause for much concern. If the
lighting in your tank fails for extended periods of time, or the plants
go sexual for some other reason it will respire more than normal and
release more carbon dioxide than it would usually release. This can
become problematic, as water that is super saturated with carbon dioxide
is likely to have ph fluctuations. If the fluctuation is severe, it can
cause deaths in the tank.


There are some tried and true ways of dealing with this potential
problem. The first and best way is to have your main tank attached to
another tank like a refugium or sump that operates on a separate or a
"reverse photocycle". (Which basically means when the lights in one tank
are on the other tank's lights are off, and vice versa). By having one
tank releasing oxygen while the other is releasing carbon dioxide the
system will remain in balance. Another way is to try to keep a good
current in your tank so that a natural air mixture is achieved. If you
are a beginner, you should try to stay away from algae that have a
tendency to go sexual (like caulerpa for example). We keep risk
evaluations on all the macros we sell, which you can read about in our Growing Guide Section. Cautionary language is also included where applicable in our product descriptions.


Don't let this potential problem scare you away from trying to keep
macro algae. We have had many plants go sexual on us, and our tanks have
never crashed because of this problem. This is just one of those things
you should be aware of as you build your marine planted tank.

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I always liked the look of Halimeda but I've never been a macro in the DT type of guy. If I was to put a macro in the DT, it would be Halimeda for sure though.

The main reason I removed Halimeda from my system was because it is a calcareous algae and I would prefer the Ca go to my SPS and not algae. Sorry algae, I do have a favorite... and it's not you.

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I've got so much halimeda in my display it's annoying. It spreads too easy and eats as much calcium and alk as acropora do. It has helped keep my nitrates low but also kinda muddys up the look of things. It DOES give the display more of a natural look rather than a cartoon colored sps reef (even though I strive for those colors). I'll say this...it does some good things. Has some benefits...but if I could totally eradicate it from the tank I would. Nothing eats it.

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I have had no luck with halimeda. I've bought it 3 times and it dies a terrible death. Cool looking but I know when to call it quits. Guess it isn't for my tank.

Pretty much every other macro I've had better success with than halimeda, some too much success. Get one that you like the shape and color of. My only warning is to not put sargassum in your tank. If it likes your tank it will be a sargassum tank, not a mixed reef. tongue.png Sargassum is a PITA to remove when it gets hold.

As far as gorgs go.... I don't believe that ribbon gorgs are photosynthetic. They have little fine white polyps and filter feed. NPS gorgs and sea fans can be a tough critter to keep alive if you are low-nutrient. I'm fairly high-nutrient and feed Oyster Feast and Cyclopese every other day. Macros can help you balance the high-nutrients.

OTOH: The brown candelabra gorgs are definitely photosynthetic.

In my experience, all the gorgs I've kept enjoy very high flow. (photo or not). I have one with a powerhead pointed directly at it and it is happy as can be. Ribbons will shed their skin periodically. Looks like skin peeling from a sunburn. My understanding is this is a cleaning method for them. They do this less under higher flow with makes sense to me.

This is the next fan I want. dribble.gifhttp://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=597+601+1160&pcatid=1160

I totally enjoy both gorgs and macros.

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I also like gorgonians and macros. The Gulf of Mexico is prolific with biodiversity especially in the variety of choices for red macros. Russ at GulfCoast EcoSystems is a very good source for information. ReefCleaners is predominatly Atlantic varieties. Both companies have operations in the Florida Keys.

As a good durable candidate, try Gracilaria Hayi. It is heavy on the calcium uptake, which makes it to be less than tasty to grazing fish and herbivores in general. IMO, it is a beautiful display macro that thrives in all lighting situations.

Try it, you may like it.

Patrick

PS. The third picture shows orange/yellow change of color tint as compared to dark burgundy when under more subdued lighting.

post-766-0-92635300-1384609023_thumb.jpg

post-766-0-59756300-1384609082_thumb.jpg

post-766-0-00226600-1384609325_thumb.jpg

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I do not have a nutrient problem which concerns me that I may not be able to keep it alive. The advice has been excellent as always. I think for now I'm going to go with a photosynthetic gorgonian to achieve the look I want.

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Yeah this is the same tank. Cyano or whatever it was is gone now. The tank is looking great and I've seen growth on my SPS, LPS, and softies. I replaced about 20% of my substrate with cc. I plane to replace maybe another 20% within the next couple of months, but want to leave some of the finer substrate for coral like my plate that seem to like the finer things in life:)

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