sethsolomon Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 Oh no, you said the "A" word! Sent via Tapatalk break out the milbemycin oxime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 I got 2 packs sitting in my stand right now at ready! Seth, do you use them for AEFW? I only used it as a whole tank red bug treatment and use Bayer as my AEFW dip. I found them both more effective in those specific roles. Sent via Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sethsolomon Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 I have found milbemycin oxime good for killing pretty much any unwanted pest Bristle worms, flatworms, red bugs, neudis. If I could get the stuff more regularly I would include it in my dip regiment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 Yeah, nothing like begging vets for this stuff! Sent via Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manny Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 AEFW? I assume something to do with acro eating. . . . . .? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 Couple pages back though but I'm super excited about your hologram montipora. I will be hunting that one down and getting one myself. Very nice. @manny, aefw = acropora eating flat worms. Usually not visible to the naked eye (large enough, but thin like Saran Wrap and lay flat along the coral tissue. Very easy to see evidence of them. You'll find little 1/8" oval shaped bite marks along the healthy coral tissue. Eggs are usually laid along the encrusting base. Bayer insecticide is good at getting them to let go and drop off the corals (though it doesn't actually kill them). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manny Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 Thank you for clarification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reburn Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 So what dosage are you using? Are you using interceptor or sentinel? Does it matter? If a man could get his hands on it regularly what dilution would you use it for dipping? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted August 8, 2014 Author Share Posted August 8, 2014 I don't actually dip with interceptor and only have it on an as-needed basis. I've only needed it once when I got a piece from a fellow reefer with red bugs and my dipping procedures were a little more relaxed back then. Any SPS frag I get now goes through a pretty rigorous dip of Bayer Insecticide and a very close visual inspection before being added to the tank. I'm still gambling without a QT I feel but I am okay with the odds. The interceptor treatment for red bugs worked very well as an in-tank treatment but it'll nuke your pod population. Sent via Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sethsolomon Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 So what dosage are you using? Are you using interceptor or sentinel? Does it matter? If a man could get his hands on it regularly what dilution would you use it for dipping? I used Interceptor. But Sentinel works as well as it has prazzi pro in it. The dosage I would use for a dip would be 4 mg dissolved in 1 gallon of salt water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robb in Austin Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 What's your Bayer dip recipe Ty? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted August 8, 2014 Author Share Posted August 8, 2014 It used to be 2 mls of Bayer for every 2 cups of tank water but then I realized i could not really overdose it so now I just pour it in until it's cloudy white enough that I can't see the coral anymore, leave it for 10 mins, then dip it in two different rinse baths of tank water to get rid of the residual Bayer. The additional rinse baths are critical in my opinion otherwise, the residual Bayer will nuke your pod population and kill off any crabs or shrimp you have in the system. I only do this for SPS but I've heard it works for softies and LPS as well. Obviously it's a pesticide so wear your gloves and use proper safety precautions. I have dedicated Tupperware that I use for this and I make sure that's all they are used for. Only type of SPS that I noticed had an adverse effect to the dip was my surhasoni but they aren't too common so most won't ever run across this issue. Hope that helps! Sent via Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted August 10, 2014 Author Share Posted August 10, 2014 My phosphate has been sitting at 0.0 ppm way too long and I had the opportunity to double-check my results with another hanna meter, which also showed 0.0 ppm. Dosed 6 mls of the Seachem Flourish phosphate to increase my levels to 0.03 ppm, where I usually aim to keep it at. I've also killed the GFO and will monitor my values daily in hopes of finding the perfect regiment that will keep my phosphate levels around 0.03 ppm. Wish me luck! Sent via Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin Pedretti Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robb in Austin Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 Did you do all that with your trusty but bumbling sidekick at your side, dramatic lightning in the background, and top it all off with a sinister laugh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reburn Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 Good luck with the phosphate dosing!! On a side note if Ty has a side kick does that make him a superhero........... Oh wait even scooby had shaggy as a side kick...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted August 10, 2014 Author Share Posted August 10, 2014 Scooby-Doo was my hero! On a side note, now I'm going to tell my wife that you called her bumbling Robb! Sent via Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reburn Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 So what is the phosphate dose that you used to get to 0.03. I know it was 6 Mls but to how much TWV? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted August 10, 2014 Author Share Posted August 10, 2014 The bottle had a formula on the back. 0.8vp=m, where v is the total volume of the tank in gallons, p=the desired phosphate increase in ppm, and m=the volume of product to use in mLs. Hope that answered your question Reburn. Sent via Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reburn Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 Yes that's perfect thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 I didn't get a chance to update but... I have phosphates again!!! It actually took me two separate doses of 6 mLs to get me up to 0.02 ppm... but my Hanna meter finally stopped reading 0. Oh, and somehow I ended up with a giant deresa clam and a chocolate tang this week as well. The chocolate tang was part of my final reef additions for my fish stock. I am waiting on a powder blue tang and a regal angelfish (I know, I'm crazy... but they are so pretty its worth ditching LPS and clams if needed) and that should finish my large stocking plans. The rest will be about 3-5 various fairy wrasses and I'll call it a day. I'm just waiting for a canopy to be built before I start adding those carpet surfing wrasses to my tank. I know for sure one will be a leopard wrasse and the rest fairy wrasses to add some zoom, zoom to my tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+KimP Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 About the phosphates, do you only go by your test kit or is there signs/symptoms of too low phosphates that show up in your tank as well? Are you going to tweak your gfo or anything to keep it from getting too low? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 It's just been sitting at 0 ppm for much longer than I would like. It's generally hard for me to notice the subtle differences of color as generally, SPS will fade and start looking pastel. Since I stare at them everyday, that's hard to notice changes over time as opposed to seeing it once a week. It's like not realizing you gained 50 lbs since you look at yourself every day in the mirror. I am going to run without GFO for a bit and see which way the GFO concentration goes. Some is being uptaken by my biopellets and at the same time, being added through my feedings. I want to see which way it swings and see if its even needed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 Here's to hoping you don't even need it. Theoretically if you allow your nitrates to rise higher than phosphates, and your regular tank processes and feeding don't add more phosphate than nitrogen-cycle-produced nitrate... Wouldn't you never run into elevated phosphates unless something went wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 Exactly... that's what I'm hoping for! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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