Isaac Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 make sure to add extra pipe on the very end so you have the ability to add more later. also, not a bad idea to add extra tees/valves upfront, doesnt cost much more and easier to add something to existing, than to have to pull it out and add it if you go threaded (which is a good idea if you need to replace a bad valve), use the biggest thread across the board, and reducers from there. this way you can change things up anywhere if you ever need to. futureproofing == less headaches later. also... disconnectable unions... make your life easier when you need to do maint on pumps re: direction... its a balance..make sure the return to tank is the same length+elbows for each one so they are even. if you shorten the length before the split which causes the drain to be longer, you up your odds of a clog. the return is under some pressure, the drains.. no so much. I tried to make my drains as direct as possible for this reason. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnM Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Might think of a gate valve on anything you might need to change the speed to like the gfo to be able to control it a little better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 make sure to add extra pipe on the very end so you have the ability to add more later. also, not a bad idea to add extra tees/valves upfront, doesnt cost much more and easier to add something to existing, than to have to pull it out and add it if you go threaded (which is a good idea if you need to replace a bad valve), use the biggest thread across the board, and reducers from there. this way you can change things up anywhere if you ever need to. futureproofing == less headaches later. also... disconnectable unions... make your life easier when you need to do maint on pumps re: direction... its a balance..make sure the return to tank is the same length+elbows for each one so they are even. if you shorten the length before the split which causes the drain to be longer, you up your odds of a clog. the return is under some pressure, the drains.. no so much. I tried to make my drains as direct as possible for this reason. During my reading about flow dynamics, head loss etc, it actually states that everytime you add threads you lose 1/2 of whatever flow was coming through that particular fitting... Might not be a big deal on larger pipe, but I could see it on smaller ones for sure! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 half seems a bit much, but yea, turbulence..most noticeable in refrigeration lines Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Add a John Guest CaRX feed line on the manifold. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 Add a John Guest CaRX feed line on the manifold. I knew I forgot something! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 Silence is golden! There were packages of fun dip in each street 90... Haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 Well there were waay more than 5-6 pieces..! Woke up to this... Haha! Got it all working correctly again Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 Picked these up for free yesterday! Going in the chiller house today! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 I could feel the air pushing out of the vents! Right now I have it hooked up to a timer to run during the day. Eventually I want to hook it up to the apex to run whenever the chiller activates. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 You can do all that and you are worried about drilling a small hole in glass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 You can do all that and you are worried about drilling a small hole in glass? I've done tons of electrical work! I used to run an eBay business fixing and selling PS3s! Drilling glass not so much... I think I'm going to find a cheap tank and practice a few times just to make myself feel better....! Haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 Manifold take 2! Thinking of using gate valves for the pellets and GFO and ball valves for the rest. For the CARX... I want to get one of the Vertex gate valves meant for RODI line to better fine tune effluent flow... My question is can that work by it self at the manifold or should I put a ball valve before it to lessen the pressure prior to the small gate valve? I currently run GFO in a BRS dual reactor but have a lot of trouble with the carbon chamber clogging and rendering my GfO useless. Go back so singles? Don't worry about using a reactor for carbon? Get better reactors for GFO and Carbon to still run separate? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 Oh and should the ball valves be 1.5" along with the manifold or go ahead and have the valves be reduced to the size they need to be? I will have 4 extra 1.5" Cepex True Union Ball Valves once I take down my current overflow system. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Add a John Guest CaRX feed line on the manifold. isnt that threaded on the other end? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 amazon part links when i built mine w/ prices http://www.austinreefclub.com/topic/35503-isaacs-180/?p=291717 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 Interesting find at lowes while picking up true Union ball valves... I was planning on using 3/4" valves for he returns and chiller..... Look at the choke of the 3/4" valve! It goes down to almost 1/2"! I decided to do the 1" valve with a reducer to 3/4 for the piping.. This way I don't have a reduction until the bulkheads. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jolt Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 I saw a nice video from flexpvc a while back explaining this. Good catch! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted June 17, 2016 Author Share Posted June 17, 2016 I saw a nice video from flexpvc a while back explaining this. Good catch! I wonder if gate valves are the same way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reburn Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 My spears gate valves are not. They are the same inside diameter smooth all the way through. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted June 17, 2016 Author Share Posted June 17, 2016 My spears gate valves are not. They are the same inside diameter smooth all the way through. Should I get threaded gate valves or slip? They would be for GFO, Carbon, and Pellets Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted June 17, 2016 Author Share Posted June 17, 2016 Does it really even matter since I'll be throttling them down to lower flow anyway? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reburn Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 I get 240gph through a 1/2" John guest. I would say it really doesn't matter. On the drains I would argue it does though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnM Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 Don't think it would really matter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted June 17, 2016 Author Share Posted June 17, 2016 It was an expensive morning! Ordered 3 3/4" gate valves 1 1/4" Push Connect Gate Valve 4 3/4" loc line Nossiles 2 3/4" loc line Y's 2 Jabao DCS 12000 return pumps 1 Bucket of Red Sea Salt (for the tub transition) 1 Bucket Instant Ocean Salt (For curing) 1 50ml Bottle Zeobak 1 50ml Bottle Biomate 1 900ml Dr Tim's NP Pearls Still have to make a few plumbing runs to Home Depot once everything starts coming in and I can make some good measurements. Darn you Reburn! Haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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