+C Lo Slice Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 The light fixture I have on my 60 gallon is a 4-bulb T5 Coralife with 4 lunar LEDs. I've had this on the tank since April 28th, but I'm growing to dislike the bulbs. Currently, it is just the two 10,000K daylights and two actinics that came with the fixture. This is a 54-watt light. What I don't like is that the daylights give off too much of a yellow hue and the actinics' shade of blue is too light for my taste. I'm wanting to eliminate the yellow tint and get an overall deeper blue when all 4 bulbs are on. I read up on the T5 knowledge that The Grim Reefer (Steve Larsen) had to offer on his site ( http://home.comcast.net/~stevelarsen00/site/?/home/ ) yesterday and started doing some research. For a 4-bulb fixture such as mine, he suggested on his website the following combo, in order of front-to-back: 1) Any blue lamp (I'm thinking ATI's Blue Plus) 2) Fiji Purple or ATI Purple Plus 3) Aquablue Special 4) Any blue lamp (Again, ATI Blue Plus) He says this should put the tank around 15,000K, giving the tank a bluer look, and I'm assuming better PAR than what I currently have. I have heard nothing but good things about ATI bulbs, so I would like to give them a shot. Being that the bulbs I have are coming up on nine months in operation, I figure now would be a good time to go ahead and begin shopping around. Larsen also suggested using a UVL Actinic White instead of the Fiji Purple/Purple Plus if you want a warmer color with a purple tint. My problem is that I'm too inexperienced in the hobby and with lighting in general to really know what any of this will actually look like. I found a website yesterday in which I can get the 4 bulbs above for $85.80 plus 10% off and free shipping, bringing my total to $77.22, which is considerably cheaper than any other site that I came across. I have a little extra money right now, but $80 for bulbs that I may end up not liking is a steep price to pay for me. I'm just looking for any advice that you guys may be able to provide for me before I pull the trigger on this. The only SPS I have is a large Superman Monti about a foot below the lights, and I currently don't intend on adding anymore SPS (at least for the foreseeable future). I would like to add an anemone soon, though, because my clowns are hosting in different corals, causing them to die off. When they kill one, they move on to a new one. I get about 3.6 watts of light per gallon and I know that's a little on the low side for a nem, but I don't know what else to do with these clowns. Any and all help/advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks, guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AquaJohn Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 If you end up with a color you dont like all you have to do is replace one of the bulbs not all 4 again . I only ran 2 t5's with my MH and they were both the gus <humm forgot how its spelled but the german bulbs> super antic+ and really like the color. I left them on when I went to my LED build and still use them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+C Lo Slice Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 If you end up with a color you dont like all you have to do is replace one of the bulbs not all 4 again . I only ran 2 t5's with my MH and they were both the gus <humm forgot how its spelled but the german bulbs> super antic+ and really like the color. I left them on when I went to my LED build and still use them. Ha, yeah I guess so. I guess I was overthinking things a bit. Are you talking about the Geisemann bulbs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesL Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 I don't really have anything to add on the color selection part, but just wanted to remind a few things on adding new bulbs. Be sure to reduce your light schedule when you change the new bulbs. I generally half my schedule, then slowy bump it back up on a weekly basis (from .5 - 1 hour per week). Most people generally replace bulbs every 6 months, as the light output and color shift as the bulbs get older. Brand new bulbs will be a shock to the tank, and I don't want to see you burn on corals (like I have done numerous times in the past). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robb in Austin Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 I'd say get the recommended combo, plus the actinic white. That way you can change it right away if you dont like the first combo. Or, you can get the Gmann ones at Aquatek. That's one of the nice things about T5 IMO, easy to modify the color. And yes, you will get more PAR with the ATI lamps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+C Lo Slice Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Be sure to reduce your light schedule when you change the new bulbs. I generally half my schedule, then slowy bump it back up on a weekly basis (from .5 - 1 hour per week). Most people generally replace bulbs every 6 months, as the light output and color shift as the bulbs get older. Brand new bulbs will be a shock to the tank, and I don't want to see you burn on corals (like I have done numerous times in the past). Thanks, James. That was a question I meant to ask in my original post. I had read that with T5s, it was recommended to change bulbs every 9-12 months (don't remember where I saw that). But I'll go with your advice in the future Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesL Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Well, that could be with T5's (I have never owned that style of lights). The 6 month thing works well for MH's, as different corals start growing better as the lights get older (LPS). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobR Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 The ati bulbs are a great way to go for your fixture. The one recommendation that I have is to look at a kz new gen bulb instead of the aquablue. The aquablue is pretty harsh and when I tried it it really washed out the colors. The new gen is a bluer bulb and looks a lot better. I am running 2 blue plus, 1 purple plus, and the kz new gen and really like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerrickH Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 12 months is good for T5's. I wouldnt get the aqua blue spL though, would use kz new gen instead. I tried the blue spl and it washes out a lot of the color that the purple/blue's pop out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+C Lo Slice Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Thanks, Rob and Derrick. Which KZ bulb are we talking, here? Rob, do you happen to have a pic of your tank under that lighting? If not, no big deal; I was just curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobR Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Thanks, Rob and Derrick. Which KZ bulb are we talking, here?Rob, do you happen to have a pic of your tank under that lighting? If not, no big deal; I was just curious. Caleb, don't have a pic, but I could get one up later. Also pm'd you if you would like to come take a look because I think actually seeing is better than a pic...... The kz new generation is the bulb I would recommend to replace the AB special.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+C Lo Slice Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Thanks, Rob and Derrick. Which KZ bulb are we talking, here?Rob, do you happen to have a pic of your tank under that lighting? If not, no big deal; I was just curious. Caleb, don't have a pic, but I could get one up later. Also pm'd you if you would like to come take a look because I think actually seeing is better than a pic...... The kz new generation is the bulb I would recommend to replace the AB special.... Is that the 14,000K one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerrickH Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 14k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobR Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Yep 14K, here is some info on the bulb from reef geek.... http://www.reefgeek.com/lighting/Replacement_Bulbs/T5_Fluorescent/54_Watt/54W_New_Generation_14000K_T5_HO_Fluorescent_by_Korallen_Zucht Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerrickH Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Your bulbs may be part of your GHA problem as well Caleb. Ive gotten great coral growth with 10k's but also the unwanted things grow just as well lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobR Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Once you replace the bulbs IMO you should be fine to keep a nem. Mine is doing great under my 4 bulb (similar fixture aquaticlife 4 bulb 54w T5). As for replacing them there are a couple of ways to deal with the new more intense lights. 1. Cut photoperiod and slowly ramp back up 2. Use Window screens on top of the tank to cut down the intenisty. 3. Replace one bulb at a time and then wait 3-4 days and replace the next and so on until all the bulbs have been replaced. When I switched bulbs I chose #3 and it worked out pretty well, no issues with the corals..... HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+C Lo Slice Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Your bulbs may be part of your GHA problem as well Caleb. Ive gotten great coral growth with 10k's but also the unwanted things grow just as well lol I was thinking that as well. I had no issues with GHA until about Month Six of having these bulbs. The older the bulbs are getting, the worse the GHA is spreading. Once you replace the bulbs IMO you should be fine to keep a nem. Mine is doing great under my 4 bulb (similar fixture aquaticlife 4 bulb 54w T5). As for replacing them there are a couple of ways to deal with the new more intense lights. 1. Cut photoperiod and slowly ramp back up 2. Use Window screens on top of the tank to cut down the intenisty. 3. Replace one bulb at a time and then wait 3-4 days and replace the next and so on until all the bulbs have been replaced. When I switched bulbs I chose #3 and it worked out pretty well, no issues with the corals..... HTH I was planning on going with #1. I have glass tops on the tank as a precaution for my sand-sifting goby's potential to jump. With the glass tops on, I have noticed the light is slighty dimmer than when they are off. I'm going to keep a close eye on things with the shorter light cycle and possibly adjust on the fly to #3 if I notice any bleaching. Thanks for the tips! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobR Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Your bulbs may be part of your GHA problem as well Caleb. Ive gotten great coral growth with 10k's but also the unwanted things grow just as well lol I was thinking that as well. I had no issues with GHA until about Month Six of having these bulbs. The older the bulbs are getting, the worse the GHA is spreading. Once you replace the bulbs IMO you should be fine to keep a nem. Mine is doing great under my 4 bulb (similar fixture aquaticlife 4 bulb 54w T5). As for replacing them there are a couple of ways to deal with the new more intense lights. 1. Cut photoperiod and slowly ramp back up 2. Use Window screens on top of the tank to cut down the intenisty. 3. Replace one bulb at a time and then wait 3-4 days and replace the next and so on until all the bulbs have been replaced. When I switched bulbs I chose #3 and it worked out pretty well, no issues with the corals..... HTH I was planning on going with #1. I have glass tops on the tank as a precaution for my sand-sifting goby's potential to jump. With the glass tops on, I have noticed the light is slighty dimmer than when they are off. I'm going to keep a close eye on things with the shorter light cycle and possibly adjust on the fly to #3 if I notice any bleaching. Thanks for the tips! Hey have you ever considered making the screen mesh tops that they show on BRS? http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/video?file_name=231 These things are awesome and they are not that expensive to make, you can pick up all the supplies at home depot or lowes (minus the clear screen). This would keep your fish in and it won't block light like the glass tops do. Plus from what I have read it is better for evap and allows the tank to cool more efficiently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerrickH Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 I agree with what Rob says. My old tank had acrylic bracing built in "euro" type, and with salt creep build up from vapor exchange, it will alter the spectrum of light getting in the tank. I would ditch the tops and build mesh screens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
austx Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 (edited) I had the same setup with 4, 48in 54w stock bulbs and switched to the setup listed below last month. The color like you mentioned was fairly yellowed out with the original setup and the ATI blue plus and Fiji purple really helped add a color pop and fluorescence to the lps and sps. I would also recommend adding/looking into a supplementary led strip as well, I added a 37w 48in led ReefBrite actinic (reef brite tech led) strip that masked the yellow tint with the stock bulbs and now under the ATI's it is a very rich blue and looks amazing. I've been looking into the giesemann midday as well to replace the stock daytime bulb I have remaining on the fixture but didn’t know if anyone had any other recommendations like the GE 6500K daylight? When replacing my bulbs I went with option number 3 above. It worked great for me too and I had no issues with the corals, good luck! (Front to back) Reef Brite Actinic led (diy on front of fixture) KZ Fiji Purple ATI Blue plus Stock daylight ATI Blue Plus Edited January 4, 2012 by bchap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobR Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 I had the same setup with 4, 48in 54w stock bulbs and switched to the setup listed below last month. The color like you mentioned was fairly yellowed out with the original setup and the ATI blue plus and Fiji purple really helped add a color pop and fluorescence to the lps and sps. I would also recommend adding/looking into a supplementary led strip as well, I added a 37w 48in led ReefBrite actinic (reef brite tech led) strip that masked the yellow tint with the stock bulbs and now under the ATI's it is a very rich blue and looks amazing. I've been looking into the giesemann midday as well to replace the stock daytime bulb I have remaining on the fixture but didn’t know if anyone had any other recommendations like the GE 6500K daylight? When replacing my bulbs I went with option number 3 above. It worked great for me too and I had no issues with the corals, good luck! (Front to back) Reef Brite Actinic led (diy on front of fixture) KZ Fiji Purple ATI Blue plus Stock daylight ATI Blue Plus I would recommend the KZ new generation to replace your daylight bulb. From everything I have read when I replaced my bulbs a 6500ish bulb is way to yellow in a 4 bulb fixture, the new gen is a daylight bulb (14K), but is much less harsh than the aquablue special or a 6500. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerrickH Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Yeah 6,500 will put a yellow tint on everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobR Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Here's a pic and a short vid with all 4 lights on. These look a little bit bluer than what it actually is, but is should give you an idea, sorry my cam and photog skills are severely lacking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerrickH Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Heres my old 40g with the below combination: front blue plus purple plus AB spl blue plus Here is the tank with the BP replaced with a 10,000k white Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+C Lo Slice Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Thanks a lot Rob and Derrick (and everyone else). Y'all have been a huge help! Tanks look great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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