Jump to content

Circulation pump?


scubasteve92

Recommended Posts

So I am a newbie and have had my first tank for about 3 months, it is going good, except for some alage problems (stopped adding tap water and now top off with ro/di). I have a pair of clowns, a fire goby, and a banner cardinal, along with a typical cleaner pack. I plan on adding some corals, probably acans, zoas, and a chalice, and maybe more just depends on money and the size. I was wondering if I need a circulation pump? I have a hangon filter and it moves the water around very well but I have been told that i need more. Do i really? or is it preference?

Thanks in advance grin.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a koralia nano in my 29g. It came with my setup so not sure how much it costs. Flow is definitely good to help keep detritus and nuisance algaes from settling on the substrate and also oxygenating the water as well. If you dont have any corals and are thinking of getting some in the future, there are certain corals that need good flow (most need a moderate). Once you do get the powerhead (circulating pump) in there, it might take a a couple different tries to get the positioning right. You ultimately want to avoid dead spots (places where there is little water turnover/movement) such as areas under a rock cave etc... So that is why with powerheads you can achieve the extra flow to get that water moving.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Many corals are quite expensive, including some of the ones you mention (acans and chalices), and skimping on the necessary equipment (lights and flow) to support that coral is not the right way to go about the investment in a saltwater tank. You should do research on what the corals you want need to thrive (not just live, but thrive) so that you can be sure you're providing it. As far as flow for a 20g, a Koralia will do just fine for softies and LPS without breaking the bank, but it all depends on what you want to keep.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In my biocube 29 I just put in 2 of the 425 GPH koralia nanos and also upgrade my stock pump to a rio 6hf which has about 330 GPH, added a hydor flo to the tip of the pump and I think I have eliminated all of my dead spots.

I plan to also build a sump to go into my stand and drop a rio 8 hf into there piping it up to replace the rio 6 hf. At that point I should have enough circulation and water to start looking towards an LED retrofit. After I get my led lights installed I'll be saving for corals.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As far as lighting goes it depends on what you want to keep. Many of your corals will have brighter colors under more intense lighting but you can have a pretty tank with the lighting you have. As far as water flow many people like to see a lot of motion in their tanks but many corals will do fine without heavy flow rates. Here's a 240 gal. tank I've maintained for 4 years now with tap water, lighting is 2 250 watt MH. circulation is a Korallia 550 in each back corner, an Aquaclear in the middle blowing across the back and an Aquaclear 70 running a UV. No external or internal filtration.

I would encourage you to add corals sooner than later. From what I've read and my experience setting up and maintaining aquariums has led me to believe is corals are critical components to establishing a healthy reef ecosystem and need to be introduced as soon as the ammonia is no longer detectable and there are no major fluctuations in pH and Alk. Obviously you would not want to stock it with pricy "collector" pieces until your tank is "mature" (8 - 12 months) but there are a lot of cultured colorful species available that are inexpensive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks! I am wanting to head down to austin in a few weeks to hang out with some friends and bring my gf home, and i plan on going by austin aqua farms and picking up an acan, and some zoas. Would those be ok, not too expensive I also may get some mushrooms from my LFS in a week or so just so I can have something in there to see how they will do before I get too far into buying nicer ones.

Awesome tank btw, love the set up!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the Discoma sp. mushrooms are a great addition to a tank and excellent to start with. I know some people don't like them because they can be a nuisance as they spread but I've rarely had much difficulty controlling them and they do well in some of the darker corners that may not get enough light for other animals. While I would avoid the pricey varieties until a tank is mature , many of the hardier zoa/paly varieties I add as soon as possible use as well. Glad you like the tank! I prefer to have a sump on a tank but this one shows that what is important is not technology but consistant maintenance, patience and paying attention to how the animals are doing and interacting (only about $300 was spent on the corals for this tank).

Also with regard to your comment about algae. When you first set up a tank you should expect algae. When I first set up a tank for the first 4 or 5 months I don't take any steps to deal with it outside of syphoning it off when I do water changes and adding the animals I want to use long term for controlling it. Algae is a fundamental part of a marine ecosystem and in the wild it may comprise as much as 85% of the biomass of a reef system and is always the majority. What I feel is over looked is the corals aggressively compete for nutrients to feed their symbiotic zooxanthellae algae and are arguably central to a healthy reef ecosystem. Trying to establish first a healthy ecosystem THEN introduce corals I feel is far more problematic for success as other algae are given the time to establish themselves than establishing an ecosystem with corals from the beginning. Bear in mind no matter how you set up a reef ecosystem it still takes many months for it to mature so be patient getting delicate or pricy acquisitions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd recommend starting with softies like zoas and mushrooms, then move onto LPS (large polyped stoney coral) like acans and chalices when you're comfortable with managing them. Lastly once you're system is mature you can try SPS (small polyped stonies) like bitdsnest, as they tend to need higher flow/light and better/more consistent water params.

Going in that order tends to end in less casualties. Be prepared to lose some along the way though. I still have trouble with some LPS... and the 2 SPS I've tried (one birdsnest) both died. It's all a learning curve! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks, that sounds like what i need to do, smile.png

do i need to get 2x 425 gph koralia nanos then? I was thinking getting one for and then later once i move to atx and upgrade my tank and get the other one?

Edited by scubasteve92
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I ran a 800gph powerhead, AC70, and a 20 gallon HOB filter modified to be a surface skimmer in my 20L QT/frag tank and everything was growing like crazy and the fish seemed fine with plenty of PVC L's on the bottom.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...