FarmerTy Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Hi all, Was looking into replacing my gigantic glass center brace (1.5' wide!) for something a little less intrusive since I currently have a 150-watt metal halide hanging over it. Any ideas? Has anybody done this before? It is on a standard 6' long tank. The tank is still running too! I'd rather have two braces on either side of it so my 3 metal halides can mask the shaded areas easily. My best guess is since it's so large, is to just cut it so that it leaves like a 2" strip on the ends of the brace and just removing the center of it. If I try that, do you think it'll hold? I guess I would just get a glass cutting blade on my jigsaw. I figure it would also create the smallest mess out of all the tool options too. I would use my dremel but the glass is 1/2" thick and it kicks pieces all over the place. Any other tool suggestions? I figure to lower the water of the tank as best as I can, then get plastic to cover the top of the water. Drill a starter hole, then use a jigsaw with appropriate blade to cut the middle section out and then remove the sealant (any tips? scraping with blade?), sand the glass down to prevent cuts, then remove plastic and refill water and presto... If someone knows of anybody that can do this reasonable, I would be open to paying someone to do it instead. I already tried Prof but he hasn't answered yet. Thanks! -Ty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmthree Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 My dad just did this on his 144 half circle. He used a steel cable. He has a picture on his build thread the link is below. http://www.austinreefclub.com/topic/18148-144g-12-round-oceanic/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 Thanks for the link Kmmthree. I don't know if that is going to work for my application since I don't have the mounting spot he had to hook the cable through. Possibly if I fasten something to the edge of the tank. That gets my brain going, I'll have to keep brainstorming. Thanks! -Ty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timfish Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 You definitely want something to brace it in the middle. The manufacturer put it there for a reason. You also want to do this with the tank empty. Kmmthree has an interesting solution if you can make it work. GE's RTV 167 is a high strength silicone adhesive you can get from R. S. Hughes if you think it might help ($70 + for a tube). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 Thanks Timfish for the advice on the adhesive. I don't have much option to do it empty but I'll put out as much water as I can. I figure to brace it with clamps while I cut away at the center section leaving 2" on each side. Then unclamp slowly and see what happens. I think it should hold just fine but if I notice any bowing, then I will keep the braces where they are at and look at way to additional support it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmthree Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 We actually didn't have the mounting spot for the cable either. We just left about an inch on the front and the back. After it was cut a hole was drilled to run the cable through. Thanks for the link Kmmthree. I don't know if that is going to work for my application since I don't have the mounting spot he had to hook the cable through. Possibly if I fasten something to the edge of the tank. That gets my brain going, I'll have to keep brainstorming. Thanks! -Ty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 Wow, you're last comment just made my brain finally kick off the dust and turn on. I'll just do the same and cut the glass but leave enough on each side to drill a hole and fasten maybe two of the lines that your dad did to reinforce his tank. Thanks so much Kmmthree. I appreciate the input and feedback. -Ty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerrickH Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Im going to watch this thread. Drilling and cutting on a tank with water and fish in it...this could be very interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 I'll try to add a live webcam so everyone can be there when this thing goes out on me. I'll aim for the HD version so you can clearly see my tears afterwards. I won't get to try it until I get back from my work trip anyways... so everyone will have to be patient. haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmthree Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 We had also contact oceanic to make sure it was ok, they told him that as long as there is someting it would be ok. Because with the water filled there wasn't any tension on the center brace. So the Steel cable is just for safety. I'll try to add a live webcam so everyone can be there when this thing goes out on me. I'll aim for the HD version so you can clearly see my tears afterwards. I won't get to try it until I get back from my work trip anyways... so everyone will have to be patient. haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Mays Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 Before we took the center brace out of my 1/2 round tank, I called the tank manufacturer and talked with one of their technicians. you might be able to get some ideas from them. Especially with getting ideas as to which adhesives to use so it will hold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted August 6, 2011 Author Share Posted August 6, 2011 Thanks Mike. I may do that when I get back into town. I just hate that the middle portion of my tank can only handle low-light softies. I wanna get some SPS in there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atxmandarin Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 dont think drilling the glass support is a good idea, once there it tension put on the hole you drill it would likely crack eventually, depending on the height of the tank removing the brace wouldnt be an issue, if you have a canopy you could get 2 pieces of steel cut and welded with 45 degree angles on either side to slip on front to back on your tank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted August 10, 2011 Author Share Posted August 10, 2011 I was going to cut and leave 2" along the entire length of the glass on both sides. Have the tensioned released with clamps while I do this. Then drill the 2" remnant sides (untensioned), and attach the metal wire and lock it in, then release the clamps. My only hitch would be the drilled holes being able to handle the tension of tank. I do have a canopy but remove it from time to time to work on the lights. I would hate to have to clamp the tank each time before removing the canopy. That was an inventive idea though. Much kudos. Thanks for the thoughts! -Ty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atxmandarin Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 no the braces would not be attached to the canopy, they would be left on the tank, the canopy would go over the braces, i did the cut out/ bracing on mike mays tank, that one was considerably easy compared to drilling the glass, i would strongly advise against drilling the glass to accommodate the cable, its just my opinion but ive done a few modifications like this one, best of luck with whatever you decide to do, just be gentle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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