RO/DI Unit Outside??

[Laura]

OK guys...this cat has had 12 lives and she's out the door...I forgot about leaving the RO/DI unit on again while it was filling a 5 gallon jug in the laundry room...it's upstairs...it overflowed for so long, it seeped through the floor and into his garage, again...it did not hit his tool chest...WORSE...his CAR....it was covered, but the water is still dripping through the ceiling...I'm up crap's creek...the 3 stage unit has been taken out...it is sitting outside...can I hook it up to the garden hose and leave it out in the elements? I had it going that way a while ago, but algae built up in the cartridges...I know that can't be good...should I just encase it so the sun does not hit the canisters? Is there anything else I need to worry about, besides my life right now? Dave, will Amber share her dog bed with me? How about Bart, callahan? I'm serious......

[chrisfowler99]

The setup that Mark posted the other day that he filmed had the RODI setup outside. He did have a cover over it, though.

[+dapettit]

I have mine outside as well.

[offroadodge]

its fine outside, put it in the shade. If u have a TDS meter on it then maybe put a ziplock bag around it.

[caferacermike]

WOW

And to think when I stated all of this happens all the time in another thread about someone wanting to set up RODI for a small tank, that some told me I was crazy. I'm way overkill in the idea that I feel that folks should be filling up large reservoirs, not jugs, and that they should incorporated floats or solenoids on timers. Let's just say that I said it.....

However that is really unfortunate. It is not generally a good idea to leave them outside. UV from the sun can and will crack the plastics and I know of at least 2 occasions when people left them outside only to have them freeze in the winter. You know our winters are not that rough around here so people tend to forget. Another topic I preach all the time but yet folks just say I like to argue. It's our ability to become separated from our tasks that almost always lead up to our problems. I've seen countless threads about people doing water changes and forgetting to watch the tank, causing it to overflow. It's just that we do become distracted. Life does get in the way.

Laura there is a good chance that you will need to remove the sheetrock in the garage. You'll probably also need to consider loading a pump style spray jug, like those used for insecticides, with water and bleach. This you'll spray all over the exposed wood. Then new sheetrock. Again people will argue that I just like to argue, but instead you could end up with huge problems associated with the dreaded MOLD. The conditions you describe are perfect for mold to take hold. It could take a very long time for the humidity within the stud spaces to dry up completely.

[Mike M.]

I'm the guy with the rig outside and yes, it will be fine. I built a cover to shield the TDS meter and solenoid from water and to hide the ugly equipment installment from view.

I am sorry to hear of your calamity. We've all had them!

Mike

[prof]

Man that sucks. I have put many gallons on the floor over the years but never upstairs.

I love my float switches now but even they fail.

Take the clean up seriously. Lots of fans and towels to start with. It might be very wise to have a professional take a look at the damage.

Good lock, sorry...

[+mcallahan]

Need to sleep in my couch?

Put it outside but cover it like mike M. And when it gets close to winter, figure out (ask the board) how to winterize it

[Laura]

Thank you EVERYONE that has replied...I read every one and Carmine is standing over my shoulder...dang it...

So outside it will stay...I am happy it did not hit the trash can...MikeCafe & Mike M...I will take care of it properly outside and being I am down to only 4 tanks, I will not need to use it that often anyway...not like when I had 10...

cafe-Mike...yes, that is why the friggin' thing is outside and can never enter the house again...Carmine is way ahead of you, along with a smack in my head, about the mold...I feel so bad because his garage is his "place" and the water was dripping through his fancy-pants garage lighting system, hitting his car...it happened once before and I drowned his Craftsman tool boxes...

I know...I have read the threads about timer, auto shut-offs...but you know me, I always learn the hard way thinking it will never happen!!

Thanks again and thanks for listening and responding.

[+mcallahan]

wait, you drowned his craftsman tool box, now his car AND the lighting system in the garage?

You must be part of the mafia b/c otherwise, you'd be toast!

[Dena]

Laura, I do this at least once a week (ok maybe not that often) with about 5 gallons before I realized I didn't set my timer. Our carpet is in sections and we no longer have padding....it's so attractive. However, it has made it easier to dry the carpet when I flood more than 5 gallons. We have talked about getting a floaty and auto-shut off, but haven't done it. I think it may be in our BRS order this week though. I haven't thought about putting it outside...we have a covered porch...hmmm...I would worry about the winters also though. Something to think about.

BTW...we have a spare room if Carmine threatens you. I use it all the time when Jason does me LOL. Or you can just tell him we're bringing the dogs to visit...all of them!

[JamesL]

<joking mood>

Well, on the plus side, it was RODI water right, so the car should not be spotted

</end joking mood>

I hope the clean-up goes well.

[offroadodge]

Mama, if theres anything i can help u with LMK, I to overflowed my 32 gallon brute trash can many time in garage until i got a float switch. Atleast its not saltwater. Hope today things are better 4 ya.

[+dapettit]

WOW

Laura there is a good chance that you will need to remove the sheetrock in the garage. You'll probably also need to consider loading a pump style spray jug, like those used for insecticides, with water and bleach. This you'll spray all over the exposed wood. Then new sheetrock. Again people will argue that I just like to argue, but instead you could end up with huge problems associated with the dreaded MOLD. The conditions you describe are perfect for mold to take hold. It could take a very long time for the humidity within the stud spaces to dry up completely.

Laura,

Sorry to hear about this again. I hope Carmine doesn't get to upset. You have a lot of folks here who want to helpf out!

I state earlier, I kept my RO/DI outside but, It actualy is the garage. I have 2 - 55 gallon collection barrels. And, yes before I hooked up the float switches I flood the garage. Robin was not very happy.

I agree with Caferacer on this one. We went through a mold remediation and lived another house for 18 months while the mold was removed. It's not fun.

Dave-

[Laura]

Mama, if theres anything i can help u with LMK, I to overflowed my 32 gallon brute trash can many time in garage until i got a float switch. Atleast its not saltwater. Hope today things are better 4 ya.

YOU are awesome for offering!! rest up and thanks for the condolences!!!

[Laura]

WOW

Laura there is a good chance that you will need to remove the sheetrock in the garage. You'll probably also need to consider loading a pump style spray jug, like those used for insecticides, with water and bleach. This you'll spray all over the exposed wood. Then new sheetrock. Again people will argue that I just like to argue, but instead you could end up with huge problems associated with the dreaded MOLD. The conditions you describe are perfect for mold to take hold. It could take a very long time for the humidity within the stud spaces to dry up completely.

Laura,

Sorry to hear about this again. I hope Carmine doesn't get to upset. You have a lot of folks here who want to helpf out!

I state earlier, I kept my RO/DI outside but, It actualy is the garage. I have 2 - 55 gallon collection barrels. And, yes before I hooked up the float switches I flood the garage. Robin was not very happy.

I agree with Caferacer on this one. We went through a mold remediation and lived another house for 18 months while the mold was removed. It's not fun.

Dave-

OK guys....what is your opinion on running the cars then pulling them back into the garage and having it as hot as hell in there? Will that make it worse as far as mold is concerned?

Carmine is really being a good sport about this...he knows it was a boo-boo and thank God his car was covered...he is more concerned about my washer and dryer falling through the floor... thanks for allk your help again...

[Enigma13]

Heat without airflow can make the problem worse. While it is probably not want you want to hear, Caferacer has the right idea in removing at least part of the sheetrock. Then find a way to use fans to introduce airflow into the space between the upstairs floor and garage ceiling. Start with removing a smallish section to evaluate what it is like in that space (how much moisture, etc.). Then you can decide how much circulation needs to be introduced and how much sheetrock eventually will need to be replaced.

Since it is outside now, it will no longer be a problem, but wanted to add that as we all know float switches alone are not the answer. I keep a 55 gallon reservoir with a float switch in the garage, but I also connected a line about one inch from the top that will transport water outside if the float switch fails. Always best in this hobby to have redundant safeguards.

[Laura]

Heat without airflow can make the problem worse. While it is probably not want you want to hear, Caferacer has the right idea in removing at least part of the sheetrock. Then find a way to use fans to introduce airflow into the space between the upstairs floor and garage ceiling. Start with removing a smallish section to evaluate what it is like in that space (how much moisture, etc.). Then you can decide how much circulation needs to be introduced and how much sheetrock eventually will need to be replaced.

Thank you for the advise enigma....we peeled up some of the flooring around the washer and have a great power fan that Sarah absolut_racer lent to me...it is doing a great job!!

He got up and checked the ceiling and all SEEMS to be good, for now...we have an industrial type fan blowing straight up and into the area that was leaking...keeping our fingers crossed...

[Daisy82]

Oh, poor Laura!! I've done the same thing several times, not that bad though. That mold can be some wicked stuff if it's not taken care of properly - esp in our area. I wonder if this is something that homeowner's insurance could cover? Maybe worth a try...

[Laura]

Oh, poor Laura!! I've done the same thing several times, not that bad though. That mold can be some wicked stuff if it's not taken care of properly - esp in our area. I wonder if this is something that homeowner's insurance could cover? Maybe worth a try...

Hey Amanda!!

Can you believe me?? You know I like to keep myself busy working on the house... Carmine and I are diligently working on it...

Thanks for your concern and hope to see you again soon!!

[+Hydro]

Hi Mama,

You can remove the plastic filter cartridge covers and paint them black to stop the mold growth inside of them. One other thing to think about is that when the water inside the RO warms up while sitting outside that bacteria will grow inside the cartridges. In my experience with hydroponics any fresh water water above 80 degrees is asking for it. I believe that this mostly applies to freshwater and I think that once you add your salt to the water that it should kill any bacteria in the water. This bacteria could cause a slime build up inside the filter though that could clog them up prematurely.

With the humidity that we have had lately the only way to dry anything out is with dehumidifiers.

[mFrame]

We just dealt with a burst water pipe in our master bedroom closet wall. The cleanup crew came in and stripped off the trim at the bottom of the walls and set up giant fans and dehumidifier units. The fans blow under the sheetrock, cause the water to evaporate, and then the dehumidifier extracts the water. With the risks of mold and permanent damage I think you should call in someone to advise.

As for RO, the float valve is essential if you have it in your house, and you can get a water detector at home depot or lowes, usually in the water heater section. For $15 you get an alarm that shrieks if your float fails and starts spilling water.

[Mike M.]

I can't help but believe the victim in this scenario is tired of advice, but I have been watching this and see one pretty significant issue to a limited approach to drying out the floor joists, sheet rock, and what not between the bathroom and garage. The garage is not a humidity controlled environment. The technique of taking off the base boards and making small holes through the sheetrock to allow air circulation depends on a low humidity environment to allow for drying out the rock and insulation. You don't have that luxury in your garage unless it is pimped out with AC. If you are concerned about mold and I think that there should be some concern, but not panic, you are likely going to have to take out the sheet rock in the garage and wait for our weather to dry out. Who would have guessed it would still be 90-100% humidity as we approach August. Anyway, sheetrock and insulation need to come out to allow all wet areas direct air circulation. We'll dry out in a couple of weeks and throw that garage door open and turn on the fans.

The "pros" use a humidity sensor to check and see if the materials have dried out. If you are going to DIY it, you might look to pick up one of these devices. I am sure they are not terribly expensive just like the new Hanna Checkers and what not.

If you do call in Blackman Mooring or some other remediation company, be ready for some HUGE estimates on remediation. I was completely and utterly dismayed at the quotes I got when a water heater flooded the first story of my condo. I opened up the sheetrock and rented some fans that ran continuously for ten days until my sheetrock and studs came down in moisture content. That, however, was in an air conditioned space. This garage problem is not cared for by an AC system that will dehumdify the air.

So bottom line is that you have some major work ahead to care for this accident and it was an accident. Try not to beat yourself up. That being said, just letting things take their course will likely result in a remediation later that will be a MAJOR expense and hassle and could involve more than the affected areas where the water ran.

If any of you have used a company that you feel didn't rip you off for remediation, it's probably time to start offering up some names so that the community can keep the con artists out of Mama's back pocket! I don't know any as I handled out flood issue by myself...well, my wife and I handled it. Three months of remodeling.

Best wishes,

Mike

[Timfish]

I can't help but believe the victim in this scenario is tired of advice . . . Best wishes.

Mike

Kinda agree with Mike but 'Good News!' saw on weather report today we may be getting some 100+ heat to help dry things out!

[Laura]

I can't help but believe the victim in this scenario is tired of advice, but I have been watching this and see one pretty significant issue to a limited approach to drying out the floor joists, sheet rock, and what not between the bathroom and garage. The garage is not a humidity controlled environment. The technique of taking off the base boards and making small holes through the sheetrock to allow air circulation depends on a low humidity environment to allow for drying out the rock and insulation. You don't have that luxury in your garage unless it is pimped out with AC. If you are concerned about mold and I think that there should be some concern, but not panic, you are likely going to have to take out the sheet rock in the garage and wait for our weather to dry out. Who would have guessed it would still be 90-100% humidity as we approach August. Anyway, sheetrock and insulation need to come out to allow all wet areas direct air circulation. We'll dry out in a couple of weeks and throw that garage door open and turn on the fans.

The "pros" use a humidity sensor to check and see if the materials have dried out. If you are going to DIY it, you might look to pick up one of these devices. I am sure they are not terribly expensive just like the new Hanna Checkers and what not.

If you do call in Blackman Mooring or some other remediation company, be ready for some HUGE estimates on remediation. I was completely and utterly dismayed at the quotes I got when a water heater flooded the first story of my condo. I opened up the sheetrock and rented some fans that ran continuously for ten days until my sheetrock and studs came down in moisture content. That, however, was in an air conditioned space. This garage problem is not cared for by an AC system that will dehumdify the air.

So bottom line is that you have some major work ahead to care for this accident and it was an accident. Try not to beat yourself up. That being said, just letting things take their course will likely result in a remediation later that will be a MAJOR expense and hassle and could involve more than the affected areas where the water ran.

If any of you have used a company that you feel didn't rip you off for remediation, it's probably time to start offering up some names so that the community can keep the con artists out of Mama's back pocket! I don't know any as I handled out flood issue by myself...well, my wife and I handled it. Three months of remodeling.

Best wishes,

Mike

For me Mike, there is never enough information and advise I can use!! I appreciate EVERY comment and post. You all have taken time from your busy schedules to answer and sympathize with my issue, and I can not be more grateful.

Thank goodness my husband is a good sport...his dad, who is in construction, is coming to the rescue!! He lives in New York and is retired and loves to come and work on our house...great!! Have at it!! Carmine is reading every response, so they are all being diverted to the right person!!

Thank you ALL again....I'll try to behave myself from now on....