cardsfan12 Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 My canopy opens on top, so perhaps if you look into one that would open in the front it would be easier to work with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisfowler99 Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 My canopy opens on top, so perhaps if you look into one that would open in the front it would be easier to work with. IMHO, front opening is a must. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prof Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 I like to build my hoods with a 1x2 skeleton and skin it with 1/8 inch plywood. I can use any wood I want to get the finish needed (oak, pine, cherry, etc.) and then use matching moldings to finish out the design. The 1x2 frame creates all of the support and makes the entire structure really light weight. My preference is to have a canopy. I like to use diy lighting components instead of more costly fixtures. The canopy gives me a place to hide my lighting. If you spring for a more costly light fixture that is attractive then a canopy is not needed but could be helpful if you keep jumping fish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crab Rangoon Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 IMHO, front opening is a must. Absolutely - ESPECIALLY for those dealing with halides. Who wants to open their canopy to blast themselves in the face (and bathe the room, as well) with a few hundred watts of hot lamp? Well, not me... For absolute maneuverability I suggest having the typical car-hood type of opening top; along with a prop to keep it held up; for easy & solid access to cleaning your reflectors and changing your bulbs, as well as a front door / facade for easy fish & coral feeding. Also, when considering the construction of the canopy & it's materials, be sure to plan ahead for ventilation and airflow. It's not always best to have a fan or two mounted on the ends of the unit - a few options exist, including keeping the back of the unit away from the wall & having some small openings on the ends to allow for cool air to be drawn in while fans exhaust hot air up & out the top. The more flow you can get all around inside the canopy, the better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+dapettit Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 I had my stand and canopy built by a fellow reefer. It was built to match the furniture in the room. It was built with a pine frame and skinned with Oak. The doors are also custom made. If I had to do it all over again I would make the canopy a little taller, install a mechanism to raise and lower the lights and add hydraulic lifts to hold the canopy open. The sucker is heavy! Here is a couple of photos: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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