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bimmerzs

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Posts posted by bimmerzs

  1. The weather feature is reserved for the PWM feature that the AI lights use. Ive tried every configuration I could find and none work with the apex and 48D drivers. The drivers just cannot dim fast enough via 0-10v port.

    Ahh yes, you are quite correct. My brain was locked into (output is 0-10V) for some reason.

  2. I have been eyeing the DAP 60, little out of my price range.

    I'm looking for something at least 40g.

    You can alway's do a cash/trade, if you have hi-end zoas we could make a deal. Alway's buy quality and get what you really want, even if it takes you longer to save for it.

    Cheers,

  3. From what Ive read, the response time on the drivers prevent the lightning feature in the apex from working. Cloud cover can be simulated (I got this to work...) but thats it. I just use 4 different ramp modes. Ramp up blue, ramp down blue, and ramp up/down white. I dont have as many colors though lol. Your right about the users just blasting the tanks with lights. I did the same thing when I got mine. Now I run my blues up to around 75% and whites never exceed 40%. Corals are much happier and sps is growing well.

    Pretty sure you can do lightning with an APEX. May need to upgrade the VDM firmware or figure at worst I can figure out and build a lil' op amp circuit if need be.

    This is what the profile looks like to create the below "storm"

    Type: weather

    Minimum Intensity: 10

    Maximum Intensity: 90

    Cloud Duration: 2

    Cloudy Percentage: 75

    Lightning Amount: 100

    Lightning Interval: 90

    Cheers,

  4. Hi,

    Are you not concerned with the saltwater breaking down the mineral composition of the lava rock, and wreaking havoc on your chemistry? How do you tell if the lava rock you choose contain's heavy metal's or not? Seems like it would absord anything sprayed or dropped on it pretty easy so I would be careful about where it came from.

    Cheers,

  5. Only gonna have 2 seperate "program's" besides a weather(storm) program. First program's priority is providing as much of the 400-700nm wavelegth as possible to the coral's, the second would be the last few hours of what looks good to me. shifty.gif Hopefully I have everything laid out well enough that what I like and the coral's like are one in the same.smile.png A lot of folk's run into issues with led's due to one of three common user error's. They either blast their tank with way too much light right off the bat, they purchased led's that lack enough of the correct spectrum's for what they are keeping, or even if they purchase a unit with adequate spectrum's, they tweek the color to what looks good to them, which in reality reduces the necessary spectrum 's that some of the coral' may need.

    Cheers,

    I like your light priorities. Im going to have to remember that one when I finish mine. Good luck your setup is looking pretty bad ***

    Thanks....grin.png

  6. Thanks Chris. I've tried the high saltwater concentration idea and it didn't really work.

    The ring may be a good idea. I'll have to think of something like that. Wish I had the space for a 200g container, then I could just dump an entire bucket into the container.

    You could alway's expand the closet.punk.gif

  7. Only gonna have 2 seperate "program's" besides a weather(storm) program. First program's priority is providing as much of the 400-700nm wavelegth as possible to the coral's, the second would be the last few hours of what looks good to me. shifty.gif Hopefully I have everything laid out well enough that what I like and the coral's like are one in the same.smile.png A lot of folk's run into issues with led's due to one of three common user error's. They either blast their tank with way too much light right off the bat, they purchased led's that lack enough of the correct spectrum's for what they are keeping, or even if they purchase a unit with adequate spectrum's, they tweek the color to what looks good to them, which in reality reduces the necessary spectrum 's that some of the coral' may need.

    Cheers,

  8. More work on the distribution panel at least. The VDM will be mounted on here as well with 4 CAT5 cables running to the driver's . punk.gif I now have more color spectrum's added and I'm well over 100 led's. I have cool white, neutral white, blue, royal blue, violet, turquoise, deep red and green. As mentioned above, running the deep red and turquoise together saves on adding an additional driver. Still have room for more spectrum's when available.dribble.gif

    IMAG0318.jpg

    Cheers,

  9. Hi,

    It doesn't sound like a zoa pox but could be fungus, or even could be cyano, as mentioned. You can take a very soft bristle toothbrush and gently remove the material in question. You can also dip it in revive per direction's mixed with either salt or fresh water. Every zoa owner should also have either furan 2 or bifuran onhand for zoa dip's, it works wonders as does a bit of hydrogen peroxide mixed with FW or SW, dip it for ~30 seconds until it starts to fizz a bit then remove from dip. Here's some helpful info posted on our dfw sister club.

    Many people asks about why their zoanthids are closed. Most of the time, tank parameters are not the cause...

    Well, first, you'd want to separate them from other zoanthids, so that whatever it is won't spread to the rest of them. Then, you'll need to answer a few questions:

    1. Have you introduced anything new to the tank recently?

    If so, there might be a possibility that they came with predators. Always dip your zoas in freshwater and quarantine them.

    2. Do you see anything on the zoa colonies right when you turn on and off the lights?

    There are many zoanthid predators. Look below for a link with pictures to identify them. If you do, then you'll have to clean them off one by one, dip the zoanthids in freshwater, and remove any you see.

    3. Do you have fish or crabs in the tank that might be bothering them?

    Certain fish, such as angels, tangs, etc have an appetite for zoas, even if they've been model citizens for years, they might just decide to turn their backs on you one day...

    Some crabs also like to pull zoanthids off to find food under the colonies.

    4. How long have you had these zoas? were they wild caught or captive from someone else's tank?

    Generally wild caught colonies tend to develop diseases more than home grown ones. When buying a colony from online store or local store, look carefully to make sure that all the polyps are open, and the stems are thick, and there aren't any mushy looking tissue on the rocks. Some places would simply pull off the dead polyps from a sick colony and continue to sell the coral.

    However, some home grown ones may also develop problems when there are major changes in their environment (water, lighting, nutrition etc).

    5. Are the zoas changing colors on the base and the stem? (turning dark, brown ish?) are the stems getting thinner? Do they look milky or pimply white? Fuzzy brown?

    This is a sign that they zoanthids are dying off due to diseases. Sometimes, zoanthids can recover by themselves, it may take a while. Other times, zoas would just die away or break off from the base.

    When this happens, you'd want to cut away the bad tissue carefully.

    Many types of fungus can be treated with Furan2 purchased at local fish stores. Look below for a link to Furan2 treatment.

    Predators:

    http://zoaid.com/index.php?module=Galle ... itemId=384

    How to check for them:

    take a magnifying glass and look for them right after lights turn on and off as well.

    You can also dip in freshwater for 15 mins, no longer than 30mins. Predators may fall out.

    Fungus treatment:

    http://www.zoaid.com/articles004.php

    Furan2 has been used by many zoa collectors to treat zoa diseases such as zoa pox, white fungus, and brown fungus

    Here's a thread of someone treating closed zoas with Furan2:

    http://www.club-zoa.com/forums/showthre ... 958&page=2

    Cheers,

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