bimmerzs

Thanks for the info Ron. I'll have to look into the specifics on how I can use the P driver on my profilux.

No no nooooooo.........you are supposed to sell these to me Chris.

Cheers,

Thanks for the comment's ya'll. As far as conch's, I don't have any in this tank yet but I alway's keep them in my tank's and have never had issues but....we all know critter's don't alway's act like we want them to.

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My plate coral's are still looking good, even under my temporary lighting setup.

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I had connectivity issues using those and never with true WGA's.

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My wireless gaming adapter died so looking for another one.

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Hey Chris,

I'm looking to buy a driver so nothing to trade. The spec sheet for the P drivers state that you can use either pwm or 0-10V. They use the 0-10V for driver calibration apparently and there are many using the P drivers this way.

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Looking for Meanwell ELN-60-48 P or D drivers.

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My offer is still open.

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Tunze Nano Wavebox for sale...no controller included. $200obo

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Coming along nicely James.

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Sold

I hope this is clearer.

Cheers,

If phosphate level's are high compared to your nitrate's, then most use GFO to bring the phosphate into balance with the nitrate, after that you may not need GFO. The ratio that bacteria utilize nitrate compared to phosphate will vary depending on the bacteria present. Some bacteria will prefer organic N vs inorganic nitrate and some bacteria will utilize both while some will prefer the nitrate. The ratio can vary from 10:1, up to actually 30:1 nitrate to phosphate depending on the bacteria present. A more effective and immediate reduction in phosphates can be had by using lathium chloride, just make sure to not drop your phosphate level's too fast, so coral's etc., are not stressed. Just google how to use this stuff, no reactor needed.

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Pending pickup

Doesn't look like a lighting issue. Usually some type of damage as mentioned causes something like this. I would personally punt the hermit away, they will keep eating on dead or sick coral's and could injure your healty head's in the process. I would also cut that head off, dip it and place it away from the healthy head's. YMMV

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I'm just trying to recoup some of the cash I lost by selling that tank for such a good price.

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I have some....what size tank are you trying these on?? If on the 55G on your profile I would suggest a lot less than that starting out. I would start with about 1" worth in a tlf 150 type reactor. Bio-pellet's should only be used to get rid of the last few ppm of nitrates in order to reach a ULNS. If you would not use want them just to control high nitrates then I suggest other method's to get nitrates under control first. BP's also have a 10:1 ratio of nitrate/phosphate reduction so you may still need to run a phosphate reducing media. Have you read up on the use of bio-pellet's, you can cause more harm than good if not implemented correctly along with a fairly efficient skimmer. YMMV

Cheers,

I have an avast top-off unit for sale, this is the model that has the pressure sensor and plug in for a pump. Here a video of the model I have in operation.** No pump included** $60obro

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Maybe flukes also but that's probably a stretch. Those pic's will help for sure.

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Nice and clean project box. Did it come with the cutouts already?

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My understanding is that without any applied voltage to the dimmer controls, then no DC output is made.

Thanks for reply Tim.

Thats not necessarily true. The meanwell's shut off below 10% or 1Volt however, you will still see the dimly lit because the driver is unstable at low level(per meanwell). If you just cut the power you will get flashing, which is caused by the output filtering capacitors discharging. If running an Apex you can set the min intensity to 11% and then cut the power to eliminate the flashing.

Cheers,

if you ask me the big name pumps are all bullet proof now adays and yes people are gona say but I had blah blah blah and it failed all companys of mass produced stuff have failures.

I disagree with all pumps being bulletproof. Folk's say mag pump's are workhorses blah blah blah but seem's like every week someone is looking for one after their's fail. Quietones were good back in the day but a lot of the newer model's have restart issues after a power loss. I only remember reading maybe one post where someone had an issue with a older Eheim pump since I started in the hobby over 7 yrs ago and they are more efficient and don't add heat to your tank like mag's do. As alway's..... YMMV.

Cheers,

Keep us posted and please share both the good and the bad that happen's.

Cheers,

Hi,

Can't wait for the build. Make sure the tank hasn't been exposed to copper previously.

Cheers,

Tank is sold