bimmerzs

Nice setup and good attention to detail on the stand.

Cheers,

I'm relatively new here but why is it required to be outside??

Cheers,

Very interested in this......hopefully it's still available in another 1.5 week's.

Regards,

WoW.....since the OP already has a QT setup, why not just hypo the fish in there for 6-8 weeks then reintroduce to the DT after bringing them back up from hypo. It's free except for the time spend doing so. Running UV is fine but it will never fully break the ich life cycle and it will still be in your tank, keeping the fish healty and well fed with pristine water parameters will definately help but erradicating ich and then following proper QT/hypo'g of new arrival's is key imo.

Cheers,

Finished the smaller fixture after adding a couple of T5's to it. I still need to get some pic's and get time to work on the big guy, it's been hectic with the holiday's and workload.

Cheers,

When you swap frags with someone, you are swapping frags with every person they have swapped frags with.

That's good stuff!

I bet at least 50% of the reefers who keep SPS in Austin have AEFW and don't even know it.

Kinda gotta disagree with this as AEFW's consume the acro until it starts to STN from the stress. These do not go unnoticed for long since they produce a lot of egg clusters, sps coral's would look pretty bad after a few months. AEFW's are extremely difficult to get rid of and can't be really done in-tank(there is a new treatment coming to the US soon), a one time dip will not get rid of AEFW's or even all redbug's. I've been in the hobby for a bit so I'm more selective now since I rarely add item's to the tank however, I would tend to buy from individual tank's over a community tank.

Hi,

Have you checked out the new ATI coral plus bulb? It's a blend of the Blue Plus, Aquablue Special, and Purple Plus bulb's.

Cheers,

Cool...thanks. Without starting a great debate....the Luxeon Rebel's are binned out and actually spec out better than the Cree's as far as output, and do so with less fwd voltage required. Lots of light but this will give me greater control (tunability) and I will hit more of the spectrum's. Keep in mind that I ran (2) 400W MH and 6 T5's over my 130G and the ~1300W definately made a difference.

Cheers,

Cool....lot's of sandbed for a zoa/paly garden.

Cheers,

if only i liked em... ha, some are alright. i think ill go with ricordeas tho!

Ric's garden's are awesome also.

Cheers,

Sounds good Ron. Did you want a few SPS with your beer?

Alway's

You need to stop over at Calvins and pick up those fairy dust paly's by the way.

Man you know how my schedule is, either I get caught up at work, driving back and forth to Dallas or I'm frolicking in Asia or Europe. I'm driving back down tonight, at least now I have a tub setup in my apartment so I don't have to bring it all the way back to Dallas. He's probably ready to shoot me.

Cheers,

The float switch turns the RO/DI unit on as soon as it sinks -ie immediately. Someone on another thread has just pointed out that this is actually a bad thing because RO/DI units don't operate as well for small amounts. Blast... going to have to look at a 2 float switch setup (with max-min water lvls)... or maybe something that stops water flowing to the RO/Di unit for set periods of time...? In the meantime I'm going to start turning the water on/off under sink so the water lvl in the RO tank can drop a little more in between top-ups.

Yup....quick cycling a ro/di unit is not so good, may be a good idea to check the tds of the water in your reservoir. It's a good idea to check tds in your reservoir as over time it seems to buildup. I check mine at each filter change and give it a vinegar bath if necessary.

Cheers,

There has been considerable die-off on my CUC over the months and I was actually planning on boosting it back up in the next couple of weeks.

That's not really normal imo over that short period of time. Acclimation, heat, nitrates, ph/alk or salinity swing's can impact this but but probably better discussed in another thread.

Cheers,

Hey Chris,

Me you and Tommy need to grab a beer sometime, let's schedule around the time you get in that box of sps.

Cheers,

The water goes into the freshwater tank via the Auto Shut Off Kit for Reverse Osmosis Systems. This float switch cuts off the RO/DI unit when the freshwater tank is full. Whenever the water drops below that level, the RO/DI unit kicks in automatically and fills the tank until it's full again. No more setting (and forgetting!) my stopwatch for 2hrs to make 5g of RO!

I have a question about this setup, is there a lower level float switch on this that turn's on the water in order to refill back up to the float valve as shown in the pic. I guess my question is how much water get's used before the reservoir refill's?

Cheers,

Cool....lot's of sandbed for a zoa/paly garden.

Cheers,

Nice aquascape...gonna look cool filled with coral's.

Cheers,

Looking good so far

Cheers,

Ton's of good info so far but how about a slightly different look at the situation. You mentioned added a skimmer but what brand/type of skimmer did you add, not all skimmers are equal, some are more efficient than others and some are not good at all. Your LR...130lbs of liverock is a lot in a 60G tank and once again, not all live rock is created equal, having heavy boulders is not equal to light porous pieces of liverock. The more porous, the greater the surface area for nitrifying bacteria to colonize and efficiently do it's job. Also.... depending on the source of the LR, it could have came from a system that was very high in phosphates for a prolonged period and now the phosphates could be slowly leaching from the LR, helping to fuel the GHA. How's your clean-up crew, a couple of the large mexican turbo's will help keep algae, including hair algae, cyanobacteria and diatoms at bay if it is a maturing issue, hermit's help also as well as Ceriths, nerites and astrae's but I would suggest going light on a cleanup crew so they don't stave once the algea level's decrease. I would make sure your skimmer is skimming efficiently, along with running gfo as suggested. Keep in mind that GHA needs light along with nitrates and phosphates in order to grow and flourish, break the food chain and the GHA goes away.

Cheers,

The extra's gear etc are being used on the led setup for the prop/frag tank I have going in the Austin apartment. Getting all the small kinks worked out with this one before playing with big guy. Gonna have 3 T5's in the middle of the heatsink's.

This is facing down in a darkened room at 70%

Here my current LED setup I'm working on to replace my ~1300 watts of lighting I had over the old 130G(long story). The heatsink is 30"L x 10"W and I had it anodized. It will have ~90 led's total when finished and I am using the Berquist Thermal Pad's instead of the time consuming 2 part thermal epoxy and tap/drill method. I have 70 RoyalBlue,10Blue,20CoolWhite,10NeutralWhite, 4Red and 4Green led's to work with. I will use a 3:1 ratio of RB to blue/white and have 7 dimmable meanwell's to work with and 80* optic's if I need them. I purchased the Luxeon rebel ES Royal Blues and Cool Whites from StevesLed's and the rest are Cree's from RapidLed. I am still thinking of the mounting stand to build for this so it will fit over the temp 90G that will be in the hopefully temp apartment in Hutto(Gotta sell the house in Dallas)

Please lmk if it fall's thru.

Cheers,

Sorry bimmerz but the blue steels are sold. I'll PM you my paypal.

One in every crowd.

Sorry bimmerz but the blue steels are sold. I'll PM you my paypal.

Cool.......sent over payment for the FD's

Cheers,

I would like to purchase the below item's, I can send paypal asap.

Fairy dust paly's with 100+ polyps

$50

Blue Steel zoanthids with 20+

$35

Cheers,

Howdy and welcome aboard!

Cheers,

Nice setup all around. Maybe put that Apex to use a bit more and setup an auto water change system to really make it "pimpin".

Cheers,