FarmerTy

Can you reroute the flow control to be at reactor effluent instead of at the intake? May help with control. Also, have you tried running unit without a solenoid? Just to see if the bubbles stop in that configuration as well to maybe eliminate the solenoid as the issue? They are prone to failure and need to be replaced/repaired every couple of years. Lastly, have you cleaned out your entire CaRX? Including the tubing and the cloth at the bottom below the rubble? There are times when the media gets reduced so small that it clogs up the cloth/pumps/tubing causing it to be difficult for your effluent to leave your reactor. I'd be careful with this situation as you may pop the top off your CaRX if too much pressure builds up. Sent via Tapatalk

You need to buy a full Apex that has the variable dimmer switches on it already or buy a lite (which they don't sell new anymore) and buy the VDM module. Victoly can make you the cables needed. If you want to look at mine, it's already setup that way. Sent via Tapatalk

The other urchin hates being upstaged so he did this... Gotta give him kudos for effort even though execution may have fell a little short. I think I may have ordered a dish very similar to this once at Uchikos. Sent via Tapatalk

Great looking stuff Sam!

**naughty joke deleted before I get in trouble again**. My snails do that all the time I've also noticed, as well as my rock flower anemone. Is that an sps frag glued to the back glass? Hawkins looks like it's getting some good color back. Do you find it ever has much PE? No, odd thing is the YouTube auto correct for image quality blacked out the background and only the tip of the purple stylo made it into the image so it's just strangely floating back there by itself. I have a gazillion giant pieces of echinata after I fragged it last. The bleached piece was a different one not shown. The echinata actually stayed amazingly colored through the whole upgrade debacle. I tend to get some polyp extension during the day but nothing to write home about. At night though, it's crazy long... like somewhere in between a regular polyp extended and a super long mille polyp. It surprised me the first time I saw it. Sent via Tapatalk

Ty, is that the PC rainbow frag glued there in the video? Wife really like the background music lol. You better believe it! I gave it the front and center spot! Your wife has great taste in music. Lol. Sent via Tapatalk

Oh yes, original progeny from 2003. Good catch! Sent via Tapatalk

Imagine how awesome he'd be at spinning with all those tubed feet of his. Sent via Tapatalk

I think it was more the clown gobies that get the reputation for nipping at SPS polyps and hanging on colonies all day long preventing the polyps from coming out. You should be fine with a watchman goby or any lower dwelling goby.

Jeez, you asking for my tank history Kim? Or just how long my current one has been up? For tank history, see below: 2003 - 12-gallon nanocube 2009 - 65-gallon show tank 2010 - 125-gallon long tank 2014 - 215-gallon show tank I've had one piece of coral make the entire journey (blue spotted mushrooms) until the latest tank. They were officially booted from the latest tank as it has been officially designated a no mushroom zone. I have almost all the rock from each iteration except maybe some pieces here or there that didn't make the cut. i've always pulled water from the old tank to the next and as much clean-up crew/critters that I could find at each tank swap so dare I say... I may have some existing bacterial cultures and clean-up crew progeny from the original nanocube back in 2003.

At least you got to enjoy that FTS for 2 weeks!

I should have just captioned the video with, "Smoking... its only bad for those with lungs!"

I think my urchin is on fire... Be forewarned, if you are looking to relax, this isn't the video for it. It'll make you pump your fist in the air and want to party all weekend! Looks like the urchin is trying to get into the mix for getting his groove on... So far: -breeding clownfish -breeding mandarins -breeding mini brittle stars -pod city in my tank -and the solo act from my urchin

I'll take it Jeremy!!!

Wow, my tank has 3/4" glass too and is 72" x 24" x 28" and just the tank alone weighs like 500 lbs. I couldn't imagine what that beast weighs! Good luck with the move!

Hi Giddy, Looks like it's going to be a great tank setup. For the sump, bio balls are nitrate factories and I don't see their usage much in saltwater applications because of that. They are just too efficient at nitrification (ammonia and nitrite converted to nitrate) and you end up with tons of excess nitrates and very little denitrification (nitrates to nitrogen gas). I would either try to add more live rock in the sump or add a biopellet reactor. They are super efficient at nitrate removal and even remove some phosphates. Sent via Tapatalk

Great looking scaping! I've always wanted one but still can't pull the "trigger" on one as I'm always afraid they'll eat my pretty coral. Sent via Tapatalk

I heard the same words coming from my much more hip wife the other night about my lack of interweb skills. Sent via Tapatalk

Food is a mighty motivator... or lack of it. I still work on just this principle alone... Sent via Tapatalk

Yes sir... I was running GFO and pulled my biopellets and ended up with super low phosphates and screaming high nitrates. Sent via Tapatalk

See example above for lack of GIF skills. Sent via Tapatalk

This is a hydrogeologist with close to a decade of sampling experience and reviewing lab procedures for quality control... I'd heed his words folks. His Gif skills may be lacking but man knows his water tests! Sent via Tapatalk

Unusual for sure but just wanted to throw caution to the wind so that assumptions aren't made on the fact alone. His phosban is mainly a phosphate removal media and if there is not a form of nitrate removal in his system, the same scenario could play out, however very unlikely. Sent via Tapatalk

Victoly is correct, SPS keepers don't aim for 0 ppm, but more a range of 0.03-0.05 ppm is what I usually see. For those that saw better color with higher nutrient levels, I would imagine that they were in the ULN range 0-0.03 ppm and their corals lightened up and looked pastel. Upon "increasing" their nutrient levels, they basically allowed it to hover around 0.03-0.05 ppm and got their colors back. For nitrates, I usually follow the rule of thumb of keeping them below 5ppm. I would caution that just because you have low phosphates, doesn't mean you have low nitrates... as I found out this past Spring during my upgrade. I had 0.05 ppm phosphates and > 50ppm of nitrates in my tank... so it can happen. Sent via Tapatalk

You should be fine. I don't think most people give clams enough credit for recovery. Most likely you felt the tug of a byssal thread and not the actual foot holding on. They use byssal threads to attach to the substrate... kind of like a boat tying themselves to the dock.