FarmerTy

I'd call or text him if you want a faster response. Sent via Tapatalk

No problem Abel. Keep us updated on your battle!

I think it just depends on your room. If you get a lot of ambient lighting, I'd wrap it. If it's generally a dark room, I wouldn't bother. Just leave some gaps for air to still get through. Sent via Tapatalk

I hover around 8 dKh. Clownfitch has a great point in that stability is the key. I'd look into BRS bulk solutions for Ca, Mg, and Alk and see if they are any cheaper than DFS. Just another option and it might save you money. Sent via Tapatalk

No, Sascha has a thriving variety in his sump. Sent via Tapatalk

It's been awhile since I fought dinos but I believe I used the 1ml per 10gal rule. I used a pipette and blasted areas of dino formation directly with the hydrogen peroxide until I had dispensed the allotted amount of peroxide for the day. I split my daily peroxide treatment into two, dosing half in the morning and half at night. My zoas and palys would close up immediately upon dosing but would always open up later without ill-effect. This, combined with 3 days of darkness and a reduced photic period helped me win the battle over a 2-month timeframe. I would imagine filter socks would speed up the treatment time but I didn't use any during my treatment. Sent via Tapatalk

I keep my Ca around 425 ppm and my alk around 8.0 dKh. Sent via Tapatalk

Glad you are still making progress Kim! In hindsight from my upgrade, I wouldn't take too much water away from your old tank as I noticed it compromised the health of my corals even before the actual move. For the canopy, may I suggest bamboo sticks and zip ties?

I've had some sps color back up in about 2-4 weeks time when they have lost color. I've also had some take 6 months to a year of stability before they showed their true colors. So, it's highly variable but you'll at least see some improvement in about a couple of weeks if everything is right. Sent via Tapatalk

There's lots of variables in your tank right now but probably your new lighting. Sometimes it just takes awhile to adjust to new lighting. My next guess is your phosphate level. I've noticed best coloration when my phosphate was around 0.03-0.05 ppm. Lastly, is probably the changes in alk. Usually a swing of just 0.5 dKh will cause my sps to not be happy. Sent via Tapatalk

I was hoping I was wrong for your sake Abel. You can get a gallon of tech m from big als for pretty cheap. The foxface won't even touch it until you weaken it with the tech m. For dinos, they are actually toxic to your livestock so removing them as quick as possible is ideal. Lights out for a bit and peroxide dosing worked well for me but it was still a long fight. Sent via Tapatalk

I hate to say Abel but it looks like you have both. Obviously get a 2nd opinion because I'm only running off a picture but the stuff within your pocciliopora looks like bryopsis with a slime layer of dinos on it. The zoomed up picture looks like dinos by itself to me. You can see the fernlike appendages in the stuff in the pocci and the slight blue tinge that bryopsis sometimes has. Give it a pull, and if it is solid and not slime, it probably is bryopsis. It's also hard to explain but when you pull it, you can almost feel it retracting in your fingers, like the ferns are closing or reacting to being pulled. Tech M treatment for the bryopsis and hydrogen peroxide dosing for the dinos. You can google both pretty easy and it'll give you an idea of what most do for each treatment.

Looks like the dreaded bryopsis to me. Do the Kent Tech M treatment and manually pull and it usually takes care of it. If it's just on that rock, I'd just take it out and throw it away. Trust me, it's a much better option than fighting that stuff for months if not years! I've observed my rabbitfish mowing down that stuff only when I have weakened it with the Tech M treatment. Otherwise, nothing will touch it at all.

I'm a big fan of my Apex if you ever go down the controller route. I wouldn't worry about an air pump if you have that skimmer still running. The skimmer should saturate it to atmospheric conditions very quickly. If I were to suggest anything, I'd suggest opening the windows on a beautiful morning like this and let some of that CO2 out of the house. Sent via Tapatalk

If I had a guess, I would imagine a higher potential for hydrogen sulfide releases or perhaps a mass die off in your tank of plankton and benthic micro organisms from the anoxic environment that caused a mini spike of ammonia/nitrite/nitrate that is causing stress to your fish? Have you tested your nutrient levels? Sent via Tapatalk

Air pumps add some oxygen via absorption through the bubble surface interaction with the water but the majority of the addition of oxygen will be through agitation of the water surface, allowing more atmospheric oxygen to dissolve into the water. Typically atmospheric oxygen levels are around 18-19% by volume if I remember correctly... definitely a lot less in an average household in Texas since we always keep the doors and windows closed because it's a million degree outside. That being said, you skimmer creates much better microbubbles than an air pump so if you are already running that, I would look elsewhere for other potential causes of your fishes distress as the skimmer should solve any oxygen-related issues pretty quickly. Sent via Tapatalk

Air pump and bubbler! Sent via Tapatalk

Ditto, foxface are algae eating machines! Sent via Tapatalk

That's awful Elizzy! Can you take the monti out and dip it? Sent via Tapatalk

That's good to hear. I'm rarely ever in that neck of the woods Mako. Just start a thread about using the reactor and I'll chime in with the rest of the club on how to set it up. Sent via Tapatalk

Hey! The old tank looks awesome! Sent via Tapatalk

Well, you've treated me well for 7 months now but it's time to go... Maybe now I can get myself in gear to finish out my tank upgrade and start skinning the stand and building the canopy. Here's the new light setup for now... there are still going to be some finishing touches but this will work for now. And for the observant, yes I do I have to reach up high to take a height level picture for the lights. Haha. Sent via Tapatalk

Just let me know when I should pick up that powder blue tang at Fish Gallery for you! Lol! Sent via Tapatalk

I don't think that picture does justice for scale. That tank is giant! I think 9 of me can fit in there! What, no kudos to your light hanging assistant and his trusty sidekick Z-pup? Why are you leaving me out Chris? I sniff inspected everything for you! Sent via Tapatalk

Dinos are tough to get rid of and toxic... so your fish, coral, and clean-up crew are going to have a tough time with it. I'd do everything Bpb recommended. Blasting directly with hydrogen peroxide helped immensely when I was battling it, as well as days of darkness. I would stay away from the water changes too, as he recommended. I never ran filter socks but with the right micron filter size, I've heard it helps with the removal. It is definitely one of the most difficult things I fought in my tank but just be diligent and you'll overcome it. Sent via Tapatalk