FarmerTy

You got me! I'm a self proclaimed dummy when it comes to electrical work. I just know that they said it on the video as the red wires being non-powered lines and it also states that in the diagram. But from your diagnosis of it, it would seem like it would carry a current of 110 AC. Sent via Tapatalk

While it's nice to have two for backup purposes (one goes down, you still have one going), I prefer to only run one. It puts less heat into the system and I don't have to worry about replacing two impellers over time. An external pump is nice but they tend to be a little louder (water suprreses some of the noise) but you get the added benefit of less heat in your tank. If you do plan to run an external, you'll have to drill your sump and also plan for some space in the stand for it and associated tubing as well. Sent via Tapatalk

Here's a wiring diagram I got from their website. Ignore that they can't spell plug in the diagram. I guess I'm trying to be CheaperTy and see if there was a solution that was more simple since my application doesn't require it to be rated for a 110AC when the red wires in the fan itself is non-powered. For $35, I guess it is a pretty elegant solution to a somewhat complex problem. Sent via Tapatalk

From what you describe Jim, it seems like a workable solution except I wouldn't need it to pass along any load of 110 AC, it would basically need to connect the wires, but it's nice to know if there is a load on it, it can handle that much. Thanks for your thoughts and feedback! Just curious, is this overkill for what I am trying to achieve? Is there a lower tech option I haven't explored yet? Or one that is simpler that doesn't need to be rated for 110 AC? I know there are mechanical solenoid switches for water or air in tubing applications , I was just curious if anybody knew of an equivalent for wires too? I could be just making up a product that doesn't exist but just wanted to ask. Sent via Tapatalk

Me personally, I'd go as big of a sump as your stand can hold. For the return pump, what do you currently have? I ran mine 125 gallon just fine with a Mag 9. Sent via Tapatalk

Do you think the SSR will accept the signal from the Apex and connect the two red wires, and then when unpowered, will disconnect them? Sent via Tapatalk

Thanks for the link Jim! I looked into SSRs I think they may be more than I need but I was still thinking of it as an option. Here's my problem I'm trying to solve in a summarized viewpoint: 0-10v variable dimmer signal coming out of VDM port of Apex --->to some sort of relay that when powered by 0-10v signal from Apex, will connect the two red wires from the vent fan. When the power is shutoff from the Apex, then the two red wires will be disconnected again. Sent via Tapatalk

That looks like a giant pagoda cup coral. Sent via Tapatalk

I had a moment of reflection. I just realized while looking into my sump that 1) my ball of chaeto is bigger than my first nanocube I had for 5 years and 2) my sump is about the same size as my 2nd tank, the 65 - gallon. Sometimes you get so wrapped up in the details of finishing the upgrade that you forget to step back and appreciate the scale of what you have in front of you. Sent via Tapatalk

Bump for input from some electrical geniuses. Sent via Tapatalk

How big are those hermits!? My conchs are at least 2" with razor sharp blades on their foot. Sent via Tapatalk

I am a rookie frag tank vendor too! I went the budget route and picked up a 24" x 24" hydroponic tray. I told them it was for reefing and they said I bet it is! I'm gonna make a makeshift light stand out of pvc, throw in a small pump and heater, and bring some extra water for topoff. I'm not bothering with live rock or a skimmer. I don't believe the amount of time there would require it. I'll be pulling 15 gals of old tank water and using that. I don't think my tank will miss it much. Sent via Tapatalk

Do you have a picture of the algae? Those fighting conchs will destroy the diatoms, they love it. Sent via Tapatalk

That's a huge clam! Wow!

Wuh? I'm a member of Sam's club. All my SPS purchases are discounted for being a member. Sent via Tapatalk

Sorry for the missed opportunity JLJ2188! Sent via Tapatalk

I forgot to mention my giant ball of chaeto in the sump! I'm sure nutrients will catch up to me eventually but I think it's definitely helping my SPS recover from the upgrade. While troubleshooting my upgrade issues regarding SPS, it allowed me to reflect on our goals as hobbiest versus the nutrional needs of the SPS. Our goal is to have healthy stock, with brilliant colors. To do that, we starve the nutrients out of the tank so that the SPS can show their best colors. The line we tiptoe is getting the best color without starving the coral. Take too much nutrients away and they become very pastel-colored and look faded. Give them too much nutrients and they darken up from all the zooxanthallae, but are probably healthier. Not as colorful, but probably healthier. Give them way too much nutrients and they start STN'ING and RTN'ING. For now, I'm aiming for healthy and slightly brown. Let everything get healthy and happy again... recover a bit... put some meat on their bones, or the coral equivalent of that expression. Afterwards, I will begin to reduce phosphates and nitrates again, not to ULN levels, but slowly start removing some until I see their brilliant colors shine through, and then aim to keep just about there. All wishful thinking as always but that's the goal I'm aiming for. Sent via Tapatalk

The idea did cross my mind but there is a pretty big visual difference when I have a 250 watt in the middle instead of the 400. No direct practical usage on the 400 watt in the middle other than indirect lighting for the tank and for aestethic reasons of having everything in the tank of equal brightness. Sent via Tapatalk

Sorry if I wasn't clear but the goal is to vent outside. Sent via Tapatalk

I might be interested in a piece. Any pictures? Sent via Tapatalk

I like the Red Sea Reef Energy B mixture of vitamins and aminos. I tried acropower and another type I can't remember the name of right now but settled back on the Red Sea one after what I observed anecdotally as better results.

I'm deep to the heart an Aggie! LOL! The zoas and cyphanstrea have been acclimated for awhile now since I ran a little higher as well in my old tank. When I did first introduce the cyphanstrea though to the higher lighting a couple of years ago, I got no color and it stayed a dull gray for a long time and wouldn't open up its polyps. I think it's adjusted nicely these days. My zoas I've had no problems with but I did have a new frag of utter chaos melt on me instantly. Perhaps I should heed the acclimation warning and slowly move them to the light next time through.

Tank is purring like a kitten right now. No STN in sight and all acros are encrusting nicely, if not very quickly. Colors are not all there yet but they are coming back quick! Those two giant colonies of screaming green birdsnest and purple stylo will be chopped up in short order for the frag swap this Sunday. Looking forward to getting some real estate back! Be on the lookout for mini-colonies on the cheap! For those that may be interested in the current setup right now. Removed biopellets and GFO, turned off my skimmer for a week and then turned it back on but adjusted it to skim super dry. Alk at a steady 8.0 dKh for a few months now and PO4 at 0-0.03 ppm and NO3 at 3-5 ppm. I dose aminos about 2x/week and feed a ton every night (equivalent of 3-4 frozen cubes/night). I'm ready for cruise control... which is happening just in time as I am focused on the canopy/stand buildout right now.

Wanted to post my par value results. I had to play with the height of the MHs until I found a comfortable height that would please the most light hungry SPS coral and not roast my zoas/LPS on the sandbed. I think I settled with these values. Sent via Tapatalk

I'm still 3 ports away from needing your EB8's services sir! I'm sure they'll disappear fast but...