FarmerTy

that is what i like to but wife said NOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! Smart man! Wife happy, world happy!

Nice stuff Tom! You can start a whole new tank with all this stuff!

Thank you sir for the info. I'll try a piece of that pink acro. PM'ed.

I want a piece of your brain Dustin! Brainnnssss... Sent via Tapatalk

Nice collection there Clay! Quick question, the pink acro... you mind me asking you how long you've had it and what lighting you have it under? I may want a piece of that. Thanks! -Ty Sent via Tapatalk

I think that setup should work just fine. I took my biopellets offline because I was having better success without them. They drove my nitrates too low on the 215-gallon. On my old 125-gallon, they worked perfectly for 2 years and I was very happy with the results.

My guess is its a sponge. Beneficial. Sent via Tapatalk

When I ran biopellets in my 125-gallon, I ran the output directly into the skimmer. On my 215, before I took them offline, I ran the output in my skimmer compartment but didn't have it directly hooked together. I saw enormous sponge growth when I did that probably due to the excess bacteria in my tank from the biopellet reactor not being directly hooked up to my skimmer. I wouldn't worry as much about which one is in front of the other if you can run your bioreactor effluent output either directly into the skimmer or at least into the skimmer chamber. Hope that helps. Sent via Tapatalk

Great price! This would make a great QT tank too! Sent via Tapatalk

Hit up ol' Aggie, he has a ginormous one that is upgrade proof for you. Sent via Tapatalk

Used to play that game all the time... follow me Lil' guys... I'll get you to safety! Sent via Tapatalk

Hey Shawn, This response may be a but shorter than normal since weekends tend to be my busier days. First off, that's a pretty high alk level. Probably towards the max of what I'd ever keep a tank at. Any idea how it got that high? You source all your water from Aquadome? Or do you mix your own? If everything is happy in there I would just let it slowly go down with water changes. If you mix your own salt, try to stay away from any of the "professional brands" that have higher alk and Ca. I would take a real long time to acclimate any new additions to your tank. Most come from tanks at 7-9 dKh so too quick of a jump to 12 dKh would be detrimental, as you may have already witnessed. For ich, I was gonna go into a rant about it but that'll have to be for another time. Big summary is I wouldn't spend the effort to have an Ich free tank. I would spend more effort making sure your tank parameters were as close to NSW as possible, reduce stress for the fish (too high bioload, fish picking on each other, etc), and feed the fish well. It's interesting how well they recovered from the Ich in the copper QT tank. I would keep them in the QT for now and let's take a look at your water. How about bring over some water, a cup should suffice, when you pick up your stuff from the BRS order and we'll see where we are at. I feel like there is a parameter off somewhere that is causing the system-wide ich, perhaps even the high alk could be a factor. The only two times I had a system wide Ich attack was during the super high salinity debacle and the resulting super high nitrate followup. Sent via Tapatalk

I've blocked his area from my GPS. It won't even show 1431 on my map for good reason! Nice stock as always! Sent via Tapatalk

Don't always follow me... there may be a cliff from time to time! Sent via Tapatalk

You were so distraught that you needed 3 posts to recover from it! Haha. Got one for you man the next time you're in town. Sent via Tapatalk

Abort Jim! Abort!!! Sent via Tapatalk

Well, got my solid state relay on the way so I hope to hook this awesome fan up soon. I ran it at the 30 CFM and couldn't tell it was even on. Then when I ramped it up to 110 CFM, still couldn't tell it was on. I had to hold my hand over the output to feel the air to know it was actually doing anything. Looking forward to installing this bad boy but figured no point in doing it yet until the SSR arrives so I can go ahead and run the wiring for it. Actually, now that I am writing this, I guess I could have the fan in place and the ethernet cord (rewiring that for the VDM to SSR cable) and have everything pre-installed, just waiting for the SSR. Also, I ended up with a 1/3 HP chiller, when I wasn't even in the market for a chiller. But for the low, low price of $100, with 2 temperature controllers, how could I pass up on that? It'll definitely put a twist on my fan venting project. The whole point was to remove all the heat in the canopy and stand due to the equipment, but mainly due to the 1200 watts of MH lighting. The added benefit was moisture removal as well. Now with a 1/3 HP chiller, heat won't be an issue regarding water temperature at least, though venting the hot air within the stand/canopy will keep the chiller from cycling on as much. I almost feel like just a continuous run of 30 CFM the whole time should remedy both heat and humidity if it's getting help with the chiller. Then again, the chiller puts out a lot of heat by itself. We'll just see I guess. I can keep running scenarios in my head but I think a real world test will determine the optimal setup.

I've kept mine in the garage for 4 years now with no issues. I'm no RO/DI system expert, but I think as long as it doesn't freeze, the membrane shouldn't be affected. I do notice that it will be less efficient when colder outside but otherwise, never had an issue. I used to store my RO/DI water in a 25 gallon brute trash can as well and stored it in the garage, full of water, without issue too. I'm sure there may have been some possibly phosphate leaching into the water but not in any concentrations that my system didn't process anyways. Again, just purely user experience. I never did any research on any of this. How it helps at least.

Good, this one is 1/3 HP too and that would put it in the 600-1200 range it recommends. Thanks for the feedback bud.

I used Regal Plastics last time. One gentlemen was pretty rude to me. I guess me coming in dressed like I've been working in the garage all day gave him a different impression of me. His first sentence to me was we have a $25/minimum. The lady that helped me the following time was a pleasure. I guess that would explain the mixed reviews. Either case, random customer service aside, it's a good place to get what you need.

Well I'm happy my simple conversion looks correct. My brain is just a tad foggy today so I wanted a 2nd opinion before I end up freezing some pipes. Thanks Jim for chiming in!

My brain is all cloudy today from allergies but just wanted to throw this out there to make sure I'm not off base here. I looked up the specs to my new/old chiller and it has it rated at 10-20 gpm for the flow. When I converted it (x60), it was the equivalent of 600-1200 gph. Does that not seem high for a flow rate through a chiller? Perhaps my inexperience with one but that seems awfully fast. I'm sure you can't have the rate too slow or you risk freezing the line but, really? 600-1200 gph? I have a Mag3 running it right now for test purposes that's pushing around 350 gph and that seems fast to me. Can someone give me a discount double-check and make sure I'm not crazy! Thanks! Sent via Tapatalk

Oh no! At least he still hooked you up! You were the one who told ME about the code James! You must have been ready for the weekend already! :-) Sent via Tapatalk

Thanks for putting the order together James! Just so people don't think I waffled out... had enough for my own order for free shipping so I just waited it out to make sure this group buy had enough for free shipping before I pulled the trigger on my own order. That way I don't have to lug 44 lbs of CaRX media if I don't have to... I'll let the Fedex guy do that! Happy weekend everyone!

Since you're running LEDS and T5s, just get the same fan I'm running but get the one with the relative humidity sensor already installed. I could barely tell the fan was even on when testing it. It's an amazing product! Sent via Tapatalk