FarmerTy

I hear the snookies have recently began to reproduce here of lately as well. The implications are frightening!

On zoas, I'll do a quick 2-3 min dip sometimes to knock off any offenders. Sent via Tapatalk

I should state I only do this with SPS coral. I hear it's effective for zoas and LPS too but I tend to use freshwater or Iodine dips for them personally.

I haven't been able to overdose it Manny so I stopped carefully measuring. Here's my process: 1) Put on gloves and dump Bayer in until it turns a cloudy white and I can't see my corals at the bottom anymore. 2) Leave it in for 10-15 mins 3) Shake the corals vigorously in the dip water. 4) Transfer the coral to the rinse water and shake it again in the same manner. I use one hand to pick up and shake the coral from the dip and transfer it to the other hand to place into the rinse water and dip, thereby minimizing transfer of the dip water. 5) After 10-15 mins in rinse water, I repeat the process with new gloves and another bucket of rinse water. I found this 2nd rinse station to help immensely in minimizing transfer of any Bayer to the tank. (It doesn't take much entering your tank to decimate your pod population. I've done it 2x where enough got in even after careful rinsing to nuke my pods. Took 3-4 months before I saw pods again each time.)

I wonder what organisms will end up taking its place in the habitats on the coast.

Well from the pictures, it doesn't look as worst as it sounded. I'm sure the par meter will help you tune the tank and you can just shade the chalices that are bleaching out until they recover. Sent via Tapatalk

I wasn't trying to help. I was just testing how you handle the heat Kim! [emoji12]

Ha, no kidding Timfish. We do also keep entirely different systems and corals for the most part so it makes sense. Kim, are your chalices fading color or is it more of a bleaching of color? Are they getting more dull and light or are they going almost completely white/clear? Chalices are very sensitive to being exposed to too much light. I agree with Timfish on the leather... they always looked ticked until boom... they are happy again. Remind me how the transition took place? Was the first tank fully cycled prior to moving corals/fish over? Were you ghost feeding to keep the bacteria level higher in the new tank? Did you use new sand? What type of sand? How long were things in the system before you started noticing things not looking happy? Did you keep the kessils at the same strength or increase/decrease them from your prior tank? Are your husbandry practices still the same in both tanks (i.e. water change frequency, feeding frequency)? What media or technology are you currently using? GFO, activated carbon, biopellets, skimmer, macro? Sorry for the twenty questions but just wanted to make sure I had the whole picture. If you're ever in the area, be happy to test your water for you. Plus, it'll give me an excuse to catch up with you! If I ever venture down south, I'll hit you up and see if you're around.

Hi Shawn, I read your light post on your regular thread and I must agree with Reburn. Though I am unfamilar with LED lights, I know that slow changes are always best. Your PC lights are grossly underpowered compared to LEDs, MHs, and T5s so transitioning from them to any other lighting technology is something to be done with deliberate and slow actions. Reburn hit the nail on the head on the idea of not trying to attain max power on the LEDs. For your depth and the type of corals you are keeping, there is no reason ever I think you should ever be at max power. My brother never ran his above 50% on his 28-gal nanocube, and that was 5 years ago so I'm sure LEDs are even more powerful these days. I think that was the "aha" moment for you when he mentioned that. You're the only one able to observe your coral directly, so just take your time with the ramp up and use the guideline as a baseline... if you ramp quicker and you see no bleaching or upset corals, then continue slowly ramping. If there is a negative reaction from any coral, then ramp down a little bit and give it time to acclimate, or put it in a more shaded area and continue ramping. There's not true formula but you'll end up ticking less things off if you go slow.

What par do you keep that sucker? Never kept one but everything I find online says to blast that thing with flow and light.

I was thinking yongeii, but I haven't done my research yet. Abrotonoides don't have the best survival rates, but I did pick up a piece a couple of weeks ago just to try it out anyway. Max light, max flow is what I was told for them. Sent via Tapatalk

My hoist from the nikos crew: My algae inspection crew: Run, the master saw us! [emoji16]

Good times as always with the crew at Niko's... almost made it bearable when Dustin crashed my party! [emoji6] Picked up these two beauties! I'm starting to be obsessed with maricultures because you get to see their color develop over time and it's exciting to see the possibilities. Polyps were out in the bag on the way home, during my dipping and acclimation process, and within 10 mins in the tank. Great specimens! Thanks Niko's and special thanks to Chris, great guy!

If it's a madness, than consider me insane in the RO membrane!

Don has amazing stock... I can't emphasize amazing more than enough. Its crazy!

Haha, well you know 200-300 worked in my old tank. The jury is still out on 500-600 but I currently have it around 300 in the new tank. Sent via Tapatalk

I'm in the car!!! I have a code "SPS", I repeat, a code "SPS" at Nikos!

Timfish, I think we share a great interest on reading everything we can about our hobby/line of work. It shows the passion one can have for a hobby as interesting and diverse as reef keeping. I've commented in red below my thoughts where applicable.

Did someone say SPS and fungia? [emoji7]

Bpb, my best coloration was at 200-300 par in the old tank. In the new tank, it's accepted up to 600 par with no issues. Prime color is still TBD. I need some stability for a bit to find out that piece of info (i.e., keep my dang hands out of the tank).

You got me figured out! Man Tim, you could have just asked to buy a piece instead of writing all that!

Thanks for the suggestion DoMa. I tried the internal IP address to no avail. I would love to go buy a webcam just for the purpose but justifying that to the wife is a road I don't want to go down. I'd rather say, look honey, look what I repurposed out of my old phone. Haha. Then use the money I would have spent on another webcam and buy a coral frag instead.

Jestep, I tried tracing the IP address with an app as you suggested. I got the same results tracing it with the wifi on only and the wifi and mobile on. With just the mobile on, I saw it hopped about 4 different verizon junctions (for lack of a better word) before it landed on my IP address again.

For functionality, I tend to agree with Jestep on this. As long as you have a skimmer in the system, the principles of biopellet nutrient exportation will be achieved. When biopellets were first introduced, I saw an emphasis to directly connect the biopellet reactor to the skimmer to export all bacteria out of the system. I think as biopellet use was more widely used and accepted, it seemed that there were benefits to allowing some of that bacteria to make it into the system. Companies saw this and started adding it on the list of benefits... feed your corals... feed your sponges. I do have to add that I had exponential sponge growth during the times I ran a biopellet reactor and allowed the effluent to just go into the system versus directly hooking it to my skimmer. As far as adverse effects, I didn't notice anything but who knows what effects may be down the line when adding that much more of a bacterial population in the tank. I don't see it as a negative right now but just mentioning to be thorough.

Hooray! You dropped off for a bit and I thought your tank may have gotten delayed. Looks great bud. I like what you did with the canopy!