FarmerTy

It's starting to be the bane of my existence! If you ever feel like donning a net and flexing your fish catching skills, swing on by! [emoji6]

Deresas are pretty forgiving in my opinion but I'm sure there are plenty more people out there that have more experience than I regarding clams. I'm a newcomer to the world of clams.

I'm pretty sure there was a picture of Bigfoot and the loch ness monster in there too. [emoji12] Kidding aside, great experiment there Manny. Mental note... buy a microscope.

Juiceman keeps a ton of clams and runs only LEDs. I have a book by James Fatheree on clams that you are more than welcome to borrow. Just PM me if you would like to.

I think this guy is in cahoots with the dartfish! [emoji35]

Some promising news, the midas blenny seems to have taken to the tetracycline and the bacterial growths on its flesh has resided. His eyes look clear again and the only thing wrong with him is he still has an open flesh wound on the side of his face. I am hoping that it will heal with time and will be monitoring it. This is a great improvement from two days ago as he looked like a goner then. I did a 20% water change in the QT tub and observed the other fish in treatment. All fish are looking pretty good and look like they'll pull through. The chocolate tang looks like it's gotten over the marine velvet but has developed a secondary bacterial infection just like the midas. I will aim to treat him with the tetracycline in hopes of having the same success as the midas blenny. I am still currently aiming to catch the dartfish and actually holding on to the string right now for the trap.

+1, diatoms

Crazy people who sell their Carx, regulator, CO2 cylinder, and extra media for $100! [emoji33] If not copper, think about the amount of bound phosphates it would potentially have in it!

Toss it! Who knows what the previous person used in their tanks. They could have dosed copper for all you know. Carx media is cheap... $30/year. Not worth it in my opinion.

Oh I would do anything for HGH. I would do anything for HGH! I would do anything for HGH....But I won't do that.... NOOOOOOOOOUH. I WONT DO THAT. Ah thanks... that's what I needed in my head right before a listing appointment! [emoji20]

I didn't have time to read through the whole thread but I only saw discussion of peroxide for algae removal and on the occasion, cyano removal as well.I've been using the peroxide for algae for years but mainly as a dip as the thread has illuminated. It works wonders for killing off algae and I often use it as a dip for zoas/palys frags as they tolerate it best. Don't ever dip SPS in it... it'll kill them fast. I only rarely use it to dip whole rocks as an emergency because it'll kill off the beneficial bacteria at the dosages used to kill off algae. I only mention as a caution. Dip the rocks if you want, it will most certainly kill off the dinos on them, but it will more than likely kill off the beneficial bacteria as well. I think blasting the dinos with a turkey baster and the whole tank peroxide dosing combined with a reduced lighting schedule should knock it out without having to remove the rocks or kill off the beneficial bacteria in them.

I wouldn't bother pulling the rocks. As Bpb as indicated, they are suspected to be free-swimming during dark periods. Attacking it at any particular location wouldn't matter as much as they will recolonize somewhere else. I think it just as effective to just spray as you have done in those areas. When I dosed, my morning was complete darkness for the tank and my 2nd dose at night was before the lights went out. I felt it useful to blast what I could of my night dose directly at the dinos and then once my full amount was dispensed, to use the sea squirt to blast them off all the rocks and sand to distribute them into the water column. I felt it would be more effective for the hydrogen peroxide to attack the dinos when they aren't in a colonial mass but free floating in the water column. Bpb did bring up another good point about filter socks. Most used them during this time to remove as much dinos as possible during treatment. I didn't use any filter socks but I could imagine it would be more beneficial to use them.

Just a couple of quick tips I found helpful since dinos were one of the toughest fights I had: 1) I usually split up the dose (1ml for every 10 gallons) in half and dosed half in the morning and half at night. In Sascha's case, 9 ml in the morning, 9 ml in the evening for a total of 18 ml/day. 2) The information I read said to just directly dose to tank. I found it much more effective to squirt directly on the problem areas as Sascha has done. 3) Be careful how you squirt it as SPS generally don't like it and if accidentally squeezed directly on a colony/frag, it could possible kill parts of the coral. I turned off the flow and sprayed directly at the dinos, then returned the flow back to normal... being careful not to squirt too close to SPS colonies. 4) Zoas will generally close up upon introduction of the peroxide but will generally open back up after a few minutes. 5) Personally, I feel that the bacterial population of the tank will take a hit with the peroxide so I dosed Smart Start/Dr Tim's or some other type of bacterial additive after the dinos have been eliminated to re-establish bacterial populations. This however, is anecdotal as I have no direct data on this. 6) DO NOT... I REPEAT... DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF CYANO REMOVAL CHEMICAL IN THE TANK WHEN YOU HAVE DINOS. I found this out the hard way as it basically eliminates cyano in the tank and kills the one form of competition you have in the tank against dinos. Once you've eliminated the competition, dinos take over! 7) Again, anecdotal, but I've heard of a success story with Tim (Timfish), where he added tank water from another tank that didn't have a dino issue to the problem tank and it took care of the dinos. The idea is that perhaps some beneficial bacteria was introduced that eliminated the dinos whether by outcompeting it for nutrients or attacking the dinos themselves. 8) Keep an eye out for your snails. They usually take a hard hit when dinos are in the tank because of the toxins they release. 9) I would combine the hydrogen peroxide treatment with 3 days of darkness to kick it off and then a lowered light schedule (I ran at half my normal light schedule) until I got rid of the dinos. 10) Continue the treatment for 2 weeks after you don't see any visual signs of the dinos left to ensure eradication. Hope that helps! And good luck with the battle. They were one of my toughest battles in the reefing world.

Oh man, I'll take one when they are ready for sale Sam!

I have high hopes. Maybe the midas blenny and chocolate tang might die but the rest are looking pretty good still.

No problem! I just wanted to make sure you tried the faster route but looks like you've already done that. Like Reburn said, he's probably swamped and dealing with stuff.

I'd look into it a bit more but I don't think Hanna makes a Magnesium checker. The calcium checker has issues with accuracy. I like the alk checker and the phosphorus checker.

Big downside you may not be thinking about is in case something happens and your pH increases or decreases very quickly. Even checking every day, by the time you catch it, it could cause some serious complications. If my Apex didn't tell me that my pH is rising because my CO2 gas cylinder is empty, in a day my alk would have dropped from 8.0 dKh to 6.9 dKh. Give it two days and it'll probably be in the 5.8 dKh range. That'll easily cause an STN event in my tank kill off some SPS. Say the regulator fails and it starts letting tons of CO2 into the system. That would probably easily kill off most inhabitants of your tank by spiking the alk to a ridiculous level and your fish will probably get CO2 poisoning and die. Both scenarios could be caught in time if you check every day but of all the things to not monitor continously, my pH level for my reactor would not be one of them. The four parameters that swing easily and can cause disaster in my tank are temp, pH, pH of my calcium reactor effluent, and my alkalinity. 3 of the 4 are monitored continously on my system... and if they ever come up with a way to monitor alk continously, I'd be 4 for 4.

You're probably better off texting him if you want a response.

Funny you ask about the corals, they are really happy and looking amazing! Go figure! Fish are dying but the corals look amazing!

Deal of the century!

Purdy!

I'm going with asterina eating duncans!

I'm not really sure. I've just removed the midas blenny and trying that in a 5g nano right now... chloroquine phosphate for the velvet and tetracycline for the bacterial infection.

I'm not really sure. I've just removed the midas blenny and trying that in a 5g nano right now... chloroquine phosphate for the velvet and tetracycline for the bacterial infection.