FarmerTy

Big Dawg, bigger problems!

I'd also do the putty or just reaquascape with a more stable structure.

Yeah, no kidding! I've been staring at my 4 year old Oregon tort colony and wondering why it looks like I bought a small mini colony instead of having a giant colony by now.

Happy spouse, life's good at the house.

So, I'm guessing 250-300 in the middle of the tank and 400-500 towards the very top of your rock structures, directly under the light. I'm basing that off my 125-gallon with 250-watt 20k bulbs par readings. I've accounted for the deeper tank and the higher par bulbs you have but understand, it's just an estimation... I sadly don't make a good par meter. [emoji6]

Remind of your lights again? What are you using?

If it makes you feel any better, I'm pretty sure my Apex has outsmarted me plenty of times! I don't claim to know many things, but one thing I do know is to keep the wife happy!

You should have had them feed alk instead... it might have helped while you were gone! Automatic roommate dosing system... [emoji57]

Only you give away Oregon Torts as a freebie Sam! The slowest growing and one of the most coveted old school corals out there! [emoji12]

Do you know your par levels for your tank? I've got a majority of my SPS sitting around 400-500 par with no ills so I'm surprised you are having issues with some acclimating to the higher par. There are even some sitting at 700-800 par as well.

Actually, cyphastrea face loses more battles than he wins. His mean looking face is just for show and intimidation as when it comes to fisticuffs, he'll usually lose. That's why I've allowed him to take over the rock. That way if he ever grows beyond my desired reaches or grows closer to other corals, I know he'll lose out in the ensuing battle.

Here's a new video Madsalt did of his new aquascaping. I have to say, it looks great in person!

Parameters measured by Madsalt January 29th: temp 77.6 ph 8.21 ammonia 0 nitrite 0 nitrate 0 phos 22 I need to change my GFO calc 440 dkh 7 I went ahead and ran his tank water through my own tests: Salinity - 1.023 NO3 - 24 ppm PO4 - 0.14 ppm Ca - 450 ppm Mg - 900 ppm Alk - 5.3 dKh So from the results of the test, it seems the salinity could be brought up a bit. Typically 1.024 - 1.026 is acceptable for a reef tank. Looks like we do have nitrates in the system at roughly a concentration of 24 ppm. They aren't alarmingly high but higher than recommended for a reef tank. I aim for anywhere between 1-5ppm in my tank but a level up to 10 ppm does not set off any alarms. We've already discussed the phosphate level and it seems in line with your results of your test that we ran while I was there. Madsalt had just replaced his GFO and even within the 6-7 hours since replacement, it had already brought down the concentration from 0.20 ppm to 0.15 ppm. Anything below 0.1 ppm is what I aim for and if you are keeping a SPS-dominant system, than I prefer 0.03 ppm. Calcium is a little higher than recommended at 420 ppm but its not a number I would be concerned about. The Mg is really low and may be due to the lack of water changes and any form of supplementation. A good number to aim for is 1280 ppm. Alk is much lower than your API alkalinity test shows. It's at 5.3 dKh and acceptable values are anywhere from 7-11 dKh. Again, probably a result from a lack of water changes and any form of supplementation.

I'm happy to introduce Madsalt's reboot of his 1-year old tank... we'll call this the Madsalt 180, version 2.0. He's been generous enough to allow me to poke and prod at his tank and to give him a 2nd opinion on what he's currently running with and what he wants to add down the line. I won't say too much more as I'll let him speak for himself on this thread where he can go more deeply into what his desires are for the reboot. I will post for now his current tank parameters so we know what we're working with.

Tank is looking good!

Oops, sorry, didn't realize it had passed. Sorry for the loss David.

I don't any fish has died Yeetpopper. A picture is worth a 1,000 words David. Have one you can share?

The only true way to stop it then is liquid nitrogen... oh no, it melted and is reforming!

River City Aquatics, Aquatek, Niko's Reef, Fish Gallery, and Fishy Business.

That's a fine looking skimmer!

I use IP webcam and it works perfectly on my old Samsung S3.

David, that would be more of an acclimation process. You did a good job of acclimating the fish to the water so it isn't shocked by the change in water parameters. To quarantine a fish, you have to isolate in its own tank first and observe it for a couple days while trying to get it to eat. Treatment of any observed diseases can occur at this time as well since you will only be treating the tank it's in and not the whole display tank. This allows you to keep your fishes in the main display from picking up any new diseases from newly introduced fish.

What? A reefer with moderation? Get out of here!

Woohoo! Does this mean you found me a regal angelfish!?! [emoji6]

Agreed on the leopard wrasse and yellow flanked wrasse. Ol aggie, you can check out my yellow flanked wrasse next time you come by. I've never even heard of it and when I saw it in person, it was stunning! I had to have it!