FarmerTy

Tank dimensions: 48"l x 31"w x 24"h Stand dimensions: 50"l x 26"w x 28"h

I picked this leaker up as a project tank and was hoping to reseal the bottom and drill it for overflows. I sealed one side up but looks like the bottom has a couple other leaks that I don't have the time/energy to fix. Great project for somebody that is handy and wants to upgrade for cheap. Comes with stand too which needs a repaint but in good structural condition. $60 and I'll throw in the silicone to reseal it too. I can help load into your truck or suv... I was able to fit the tank and stand both separately in my SUV, though it took two trips to grab everything. -Ty

Sad to see you guys go! Looks like you guys have a great system going!

I know a good PT if you need one. [emoji6]

What's the price point for free shipping? [emoji16]

Their wait and build approach got them a bigger sale! [emoji41]

Pink lemonade? [emoji6] SPS humor for your temporary hiatus from the SPS club. When/if you come back, I'll have some frags for you sir.

That's a real shame!

I've had mine stuck open before.

Don't get used to it! [emoji6]

If you're looking into Skimz, I'd look into the SM203. It has the DC pump that allows a variable output on your pump and is probably more efficient for power usage as well. I'd honestly go one bigger for skimmer size than the SM163. It says it's rated for 317 gallons but those skimmer ratings are always high. My SM201 is rated for 211 gallons heavily stocked and 528 gallons lightly stocked. Based on that, I'd say the 317 rating on the SM163 would be more the light stocking rating and if your tank is heavily stocked, it would be pushing it to keep up. Just based on percentage of heavy rating to light rating for the SM201, that would put the heavy stocking rating for the SM163 around 127 gallons.

Keep an eye on the solenoid. I still think it may be the issue. When mine went out... it would work for a little bit and then not work. Then it would start working again and not work. Make sure you set your bubble rate pretty close to where you need it without the solenoid so that in case it goes out, you don't dump tons of CO2 in your tank.

He only eats them on the half-shell for now so the presentation is different than a live one. Will the behavior continue? Possibly... I couldn't predict it right now but the goal is to get him to eat for the first week or so. That's where you usually end up losing regals... they are starving during the whole capture and transport process, and once they get in your hands, you need to feed the heck out of them to help regain their strength. Once they make it through the first initial introduction and survive that, then your goal is to train them to eat the foods you want it to eat... mysis, pellets, etc.

I'd be going nuts right now waiting for that tank. That's a very long lead time... they better be the best tank makers that ever lived for me to wait that long!

I'm a big fan of my Skimz SM201. Very high quality for the build. I'm also a big fan of you upgrading the size of the skimmer for your size tank and livestock level. I think it'll help with keeping nutrients low.

I'm a big fan of my Skimz SM201. Very high quality for the build. I'm also a big fan of you upgrading the size of the skimmer for your size tank and livestock level. I think it'll help with keeping nutrients low.

Slow playing me huh?

This past Wednesday, I had the pleasure of feasting my eyes on the Wardlaw 120. Wardlaw has a great setup in the front room that's perfect for saltwater reef tank oogling. He ran me through the history of the tank and what may have led to the tank crash. We believe to have pinpointed it down to an overdose of alk in his ATO causing alk levels to skyrocket in his tank. Both of our hanna meters topped out at 300 ppm (16.8 dKh). Wow! Here's the suite of tests I ran on his water and the results: Salinity - 1.024 (Milwaukee Digital Refractometer) Alk - >16.8 dKh (Hanna Meter) Ca - 120 ppm (Red Sea) Mg - 1,120 ppm (Red Sea) PO4 - 0.04 ppm (Hanna ultra low phosphorus meter) NO3 - >64 ppm (Red Sea) Basically, the alk overdose wiped out a majority of his corals. Luckily the fish survived and a couple of zoas. The calcium most likely precipitated out and ended at a super low concentration of 120 ppm. He continued to run GFO the entire time so his phosphate levels stayed pretty reasonable but nitrates have shot up significantly with the coral die off. We also took a look at his RO/DI system and all of his filters and DI cartridge needed to be replaced. It was probably not there yet but would have started to add nutrients into the tank if it didn't get replaced soon. So the strategy we discussed was to do some large volume water changes to get his alk back down and his calcium more in line. He's ordered some new filters for the RO/DI and they are on their way but the more pressing issue is the super low Ca and the super high alk, so in this scenario, not waiting for the new filters and doing the water changes now seems more logical. Once levels are closer to NSW levels, we can probably use 2-part to tweak the levels just right. Wardlaw has mentioned he is more interested in setting up the system for the long-term and plans to get a CaRX to supplement his foundation elements. For nutrients, he already has the GFO online and we haven't discussed how to maintain nitrate levels <5ppm just yet.

I think you have nothing to be concerned about regarding pH. I'd guess it would go up marginally from this point even while attempting to attain 9.0 dKh.

Tank is fallow... see you in 4-6 weeks tank! I'm going with the hands off approach and just going to let it run itself for the month and see how things come out. I'll get back to getting my canopy and stand buttoned down during this time and finally trimming out both pieces. I'll keep all my fish in the tub and focus on weekly water changes to keep the nutrient levels down. About 2 weeks in, I'll go a full water change of the tub to remove all medications and see if any of the fish respond with signs of disease. If not, then I'll open up the partitioning wall that separates the regal angelfish from the other fish and allow them to make friends while in the tub... where they are easily separated if someone gets a little too aggressive. Hopefully by then, my regal angelfish will be used to all the foods I normally feed my fish and can learn to eat with the community of fishes. Good signs with the regal angelfish the other day. He has been snacking away on the clam and I'm hoping to get him to eat the other offerings of mysis and pellets. He's also been a bit more territorial and has nudged some of the smaller wrasses and the flame angel out of his space... a great sign in my eyes as he's feeling healthy enough to assert his own territory.

Thanks! I enjoy making the videos and I can only hope I don't bore people with them. I could watch my fighting conchs all day long... they are hilarious!

Yeah, just remove it from being in line with the regulator and blow on the tubing while plugged in and not plugged in. Before even that though, you should be able to hear it actuate on and off while being plugged in or unplugged. Those things end up needing replacement every 2-3 years in my experience... the coil mechanically wears down with use and becomes unreliable.

Actually, the tub has been medicated this whole time. I've seen no ill effect of just leaving the chloroquine phosphate in solution so any new additions just reset my 10 day clock in my head to consider them fully safe. I'll probably aim to treat them for 10 days and then move them into a smaller tank for observation and feeding. It's difficult to keep any eye on them in the tub but a small 5 gallon or 20 gallon would be easier. I'm still waiting for the light to come on to gauge their activity level but something tells me they need to be treated and the display tank fallow timeline reset again for 4-6 weeks.

I don't think it hums or does anything without the impeller.

Hawkins and I believe he got it from RCA.