FarmerTy

I've seen worse on Fox!

Shows over folks! Let's let the new parents have some privacy. [emoji128]

Oh I know the guilt of fish death... I think we all do. Especially ones that have become more than just ornamental... they've become pets. I honestly don't know if treating them or not treating would have saved the fish. You could stress them more and kill them or you could save them with medication. Either action which leads to death is a hard pill to swallow for sure.I'm staring at a tank with 9 fish now, out of 21 fish that used to be there 4 months ago. Besides the newly acquired emperor... no fish is bigger than a leopard wrasse. The tank feels awfully lonely sometimes. You just have to pick up and persevere... make plans to do things to avoid the same issues... and keep going. That's the difference of someone who gets in and gets out and someone who's here to stay. [emoji106] Now that everyone is pumped up about reekeeping... go clean out your skimmers, vinegar dip your pumps, clean your impellers, replace your media, clean your glass, scrub off the coralline, pull macro algae, swap out your filter socks, do a water change, siphon your sand, and for Pete's sake, tell your fish you love them! [emoji39]

I would agree to a certain extent if the tank is not 100% healthy. Though with the number of fish diseases in this hobby, both known and unknown, it's hard to be sure what really killed your fish. Was it stress from a recent tank crash and bacterial infections that led to lowered immune responses to ich? Or was it ich that appeared and then led to open wounds which allowed bacteria to infect the wounds?Or is it something never encountered before that wiped out a small part of the population? Internal parasites that weakened the fish? Who knows sometimes... the ideal thing is to remove and treat but that may not always be an option. I've had great success with just leaving them be if it's symptoms of ich... but then marine velvet wiped me out. Perhaps the ich attacked first and then allowed the velvet to overtake? Who knows... but I lost a lot of fish and that's always a sad thing.

I wouldn't hesitate to dose it again in the tank if needed. Your skimmer will blow over so just remove the cup and let it spill over for awhile... it'll help oxygenated the water during the 5-day treatment. I've heard to slowly dose it up to full dose when dealing with wrasses... especially leopard wrasses.

White poop screams intestinal parasite to me. Wrasses in general are known for them. Two treatments of prazipro will usually do the trick... I never told you this but I consider prazipro to be reef safe, except for fan worms. I dosed it in my tank full of SPS, zoas, an anemone, a clam, urchins, snails, a shrimp, and some LPS and only two SPS reacted to it. They both released mesenterial filaments for a day or two and were fine afterwards... others mileage may vary.

His old phone...

Medium and high light are very subjective to each tank. My low light is most people's medium light. I tend to use zoas if you don't have access to a par meter. If they stretch a little, I consider that low light. If they are flat against a the rock, I consider that medium to high. Either case, I've had more SPS die of low light than high light so I usually move to higher if it doesn't look good. I know... the opposite thinking of softies and LPS.

Not only good for your fish... but also helps record them on video.

My build thread is like a speeding train of ridiculousness... derailing is not just a possibility... but more of an eventuality.I have all kinds of marine velvet goodies... but the one and only thing you need is actually right at RCA. Chloroquine phosphate, sold as NLS Ich powder. They also have it at Aquadome for you crazy southies. I will say though that if you're seeing physical symptoms... it is more than likely too late for the fish... but you may be able to save the other fish. Look for them swimming in front of powerheads at night and for a sugary dust on their bodies... less like the spots like ich. Good thing with the powder, it also treats for ich and brookynella so you can cover all scenarios. This is an out of tank treatment so you'll have to catch your fish out.

It pays for itself in only 6 months! <--- spoken like a true salesman.

Make that emergency kryptonite candy cane fragging tonight too! When the clowns are done spawning, I can move the webcam over to the emperor munching on hundreds of dollars worth of candy canes next. ARE YOU NOT ENTERTAINED? <--- said in my best Russell Crowe voice.

Brownchickenbrowncow!

Is that ETannert? Wasn't she the one that doomed multiple future generations of fungias with her tank move?

For those who enjoy the DVD behind-the-scenes extras options... Not so glamorous any more huh? [emoji85]

Hello ARCers, If you interested in watching Nemo 2: Nemo starts a family... then tune in to the webfeed below and enjoy. http://107.207.77.238:8080/browserfs.html Username: jeeperty password: corals

Just no more math and we'll let you come.

That's mamamamama...madness!

I know you have a soft spot for fungias too! [emoji85]

Just give it time... a lot of my SPS lighten/darken up while transitioning to my lighting from the last tank/store lighting it came from.

Looks like we're getting a good mix of newer and older club members at this event. For you first-time attendees, I'll have a special prize for you guys. [emoji106]

AquaSD Funky Purple War coral... nice purplish base and cyan centers

ORA hawkins... Fragged and ready to heal in time for C4!

Looking to clear some space on the frag rack. Pagoda cup coral 4-5" across - $35 -PENDING Greenish blue polyps and base Part of it is faded because it was shadowed over by my purple stylo colony. Old video of it about 5 months back http://youtu.be/oQcfVINBCZg Mini fungia factory - $30 PENDING That's right, giving up a piece of the fungia factory. It has 3 buds on it now... the dead fungia plate itself is about 3" across for scale. Nice green fungia plates with orange mouths. If you harvest the buds correctly, it'll keep spawning indefinitely at those spawn points. At least that has been my experience but obviously I can't guarantee that. PM is the key to reserving. Thank you. -Ty

Nothing too exciting on the updates other than I've been working on lowering my alk to 7.0 dKh the past month and oddly, it feels like my SPS are a lot happier. Perhaps I was too close to being on the high side of the alk scale when carbon dosing, which is usually not recommended to keep your alk above 8.0 dKh. I was at exactly 8.0 dKh so I lowered it down just in case I have an alk spike and shoot myself past the safety margin of 8.0 dKh when carbon dosing. I've been a little lazy on testing other parameters and have only solely tested alk for the most part the last month. When my old tank was on cruise control, it really was the only test I ran on a weekly basis and the rest, Ca, Mg, PO4, and NO3 were run more on a monthly basis. I knew my Ca was going to drop a bit while I was ramping down the CaRX to lower my dKh but I let it slip a little too much... it was sitting at 370 ppm. I promptly dosed it back up to 420 ppm. My alk was running a nice 7.0 dKh for 2 weeks now and then all of a sudden, it was at 6.5 dKh, so I dosed it back up and adjusted my CaRX accordingly to keep up with the possibly increased demand now that the SPS have adjusted to the 7.0 dKh. The emperor has settled in for the most part. He still moves around some of my smaller zoa frags so I'll have to glue them to good-sized rocks pretty soon to keep his shenanigans at bay. He hasn't really bothered any of my corals up to this point except one... my war coral. Looks like war corals are on his grocery list... he literally ate a chunk out of a good-sized colony. It's odd to me how he can even do that but it was down to the point that there was not only the flesh missing, but part of the stony base. It looked like a parrotfish took a bite or something. I'll post a picture later today after work but it looks like I'll be having a emergency fragging session on the war coral this evening and add it to my inventory for the frag swap at C4. I also picked up some good RO/DI water from Gig'em until my new set of filters/DI comes in from the BRS group buy. I don't think I updated it on here but I checked my RO/DI system on Friday and realized my DI has been spent for who knows how long... my guess is about 2 months ago. That's when I started to see cyano and macro algae growth, but I thought it was more related to my removal of the fish and subsequent reintroduction because of the marine velvet epidemic. I was lazy about checking the TDS of the water and relied on the visual inspection of the color-changing resin. Little did I realized, that the mixed-bed DI resin has two distinct colors... the color change can be easily seen on the lighter resin but not the darker one. So, looking at the resin, I thought I was only half spent and still had half to go... but the dark resin is naturally colored that way and it did not mean that I still had 50% life left! Ooops! When I checked the TDS, it was going in 9 ppm, and coming out 9 ppm after the DI resin... means it was totally spent. For those interested in just using tap water, I was adding RO water (without the DI) and it caused a huge cyano bloom and macro algae growth. That's only with 15 gallons of top-off every 1.5 weeks on a 250-gallon total water volume system. I couldn't imagine if I actually did water changes with that water! And RO water actually already removed 95% of the nasties in tap water... go ahead and use your tap water... I'll stick with my RO/DI. Moral of this post... don't be lazy... check your parameters... check your water filters. Happy reefing!