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FarmerTy

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Everything posted by FarmerTy

  1. I could see that fitting just fine in Ty's front room. I'll help too! Enablers! [emoji15] The last upgrade wore me out. My last and final upgrade is going to be in a new house and it's going to be in-wall with a fish room behind it for equipment. I'll go all out for that one for sure! We're talking crane my tank in PMRogers style here. [emoji38]
  2. I would have them avoid spraying anywhere near the tank and turn off your skimmer if you're running one for the day. A new bag of carbon wouldn't hurt afterwards as well.
  3. I believe the new Apex Ready Wavelines that have just been released have been designed to work seamlessly with the 1-10v voltage of the Apex VDM ports and you don't need a converter anymore to convert from 1-5v to 1-10v. I could be wrong so double-check me.
  4. I haven't tried it myself for a DC return pump but here's a decent thread discussing it Kim if it helps? https://forum.neptunesystems.com/showthread.php?12412-New-Waveline-Apex-Ready-controllers-not-working You may have to register to see the images in the thread.
  5. Great shots of the fish there too! Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  6. Is this a record for the forum?Huzzah! You sir are the recipient of a free frag for being the 2000th post in my build thread! You know where to find me the next time you're in town. [emoji6]
  7. exactly. Only have time for 1 tank at a timeSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk My wife says I'm not allowed to talk to you until the tank is sold... [emoji17]
  8. I was actually going to leave him but only found him because he had died.Good luck with that Tampa Bay stuff. Its full interesting life... most I'm fascinated by and the rest I'm deathly afraid of. [emoji41]
  9. Got a bunch of goof balls on here! Thanks for the comments fellas. Look what I found today hanging out in my sump. Life finds a way.
  10. That's funny. You and Sascha are literally thinking about adding a similar sized tank and similar setup into a similar spot in your houses... Right down to the niche in your dining areas. To top it off, you're both talking to Jake for advice and he told both of you the same thing about the leaking bulkhead and having to tear down some drywall to fix it with an external overflow. What a coincidence!
  11. I'd imagine weekly water changes should suffice for now. If not, I'd look into kalk in your ATO. Your demand should be low enough that it'll work for you for a long time until you potentially upgrade tanks. At that time, you can look into dosers or a calcium reactor if needed. Oh, and maybe you couldn't think of the word at the time but supplementing is definitely not buffering. IMO, don't ever put any type of buffer into your saltwater tank, it's a recipe for trouble.
  12. Agreed, if you can take the rock out, hydrogen peroxide is your friend. I've even seen it sold at Walgreens in a spray bottle form so even better. Just make sure you don't spray any SPS with the peroxide as they aren't big fans of it. Zoas and LPS I have found are generally more tolerant of it, even directly sprayed. For those tanks where you can't remove the rocks, Tech M will work, just remove as much as possible manually before doing so. I've tried the BRS mix with both forms of Mg supplement and it wasn't effective for me. Other's mileage may vary.
  13. Jestep, do you use the high capacity GFO? I went back to the regular stuff because I noticed it was too dramatic of a change during my monthly GFO swap.
  14. I compare BML to kessils. They can keep LPS and softies happy, and some SPS keepers have success with them... but I think they are overpriced and probably not the lighting I'd go with for a SPS-dominant tank. This is based from personal observation of other tanks I've seen and also other's experiences with them. The successful SPS dominant tanks with them are few and far between whereas there are a ton of successful SPS tanks with MH, T5, Radions, and to a lesser degree, the Ocean Revive fixtures I use. I still think T5s give the best color rendition on SPS and to me, the ultimate for coloration would be a T5/hybrid light, much like the ATI hybrid light Juiceman mentioned. Air conditioners will process a lot of the humidity but if yours isn't constantly running (for instance mine runs less during the day) and during the Spring/Summer when it hardly runs at all, you'll get a build-up of moisture in the house. Granted, my house is almost 40 years old so the taping on the drywall may not hold up as well as a newer home but I've seen plenty of evidence of moisture related damage in my 1800 sq ft home. That's why I opted to vent all heat and moisture outside. I'll try to snap a picture sometime soon so you can see the setup or if its a slow day at work, you can peruse the 99 pages of my build thread and see it for yourself.
  15. Well, again, sorry for your losses. I can take coral losses but fish losses always hit me in that soft spot. We may never know what took it down but my best guess is bacterial. It can kill within 24hrs so much scarier than marine velvet or ich to me, anyday! The mandarin doesn't actually have scales and uses it's excessive slime coat to protect itself. I'd imagine that slime coat may be very conducive to bacterial infection but that's just my best educated guess.
  16. I agree with Jim. Also, any thought to external overflow? For your plumbing, if at all possible, I like to have the manifold over the sump in case there are any leaks. You can always run the tubing to where the reactors are but I like to originate the connections over the sump to account for Murphy's law. Also, I'd add valves to your drains so you can fine tune them if needed. You can probably just run with true union connections with integrated valves for that. What's the extra bay in the sump with the diverted line from the return pump for? Frag tank? Refugium? For the skimmer, I'm happy with my Skimz 201 for my 250 gallon total water volume. For lighting, I like that plan for a mixed reef. If you plan on going SPS dominant anytime soon, I'd go with different LEDs or supplement the BMLs with other lights instead of investing more in them. Just a quick note on these larger type tanks, I've noticed in my house... acute signs of moisture damage from evaporation from my saltwater tank even with my old 125-gallon. Not wanting to see what a 215-gallon could do, I made it a point to vent the air from my cabinet/canopy to the outside. A possible thought to consider when you're going this big.
  17. Will do. I'll shoot you a text once I know my schedule a bit more.
  18. Perfect example of what I'm talking about. This Skittles granulosa went from 125 par to 650 par in a day. It didn't die... It completely bleached... And usually in about 4-6 weeks, it'll regain color for me and be gorgeous again. This isn't the first time I've done this knowing that the coral will bleach. I've never once considered the alternative that it would die because it's never happened to me. Again, caveat is it was a healthy specimen in the first place and water parameters in my tank were conducive to SPS.
  19. Well that looks like a pretty steady stream coming out of that thing so maybe I'll see you in 2 days. [emoji38]
  20. Sad to hear sir. Sorry for your losses! Some quick questions, did you QT the potter's wrasse? Angel? Where did you get it from? Do you have any fish left? If that is all your fish, I'd just leave it fallow for the year and then restock as planned for the new year.
  21. It won't be a giant frag but I can frag you a pearlberry. Maybe I can swing by one day and check out the tank and see if you got a nice coral I wouldn't mind trading you a piece for it.
  22. Hi Good Greef, First off, kudos on the creative screen name! A lot of great advice here already from some knowledgeable folks. I'd agree to having your new lighting setup on your tank and seeing how your current corals react first. There's no point in getting SPS in there so quickly if you aren't sure if your softies and LPS are happy with the light just yet either. I also agree in taking it slow. Even at my best, adding 10+ frags of SPS is a risky endeavor, especially if you haven't kept them before. I always advise to use some easy tester corals such as digitatas, birdsnests, or montis to see if they are happy first before putting more money into the expensive stuff. For acclimation of SPS, it just generally depends on where the frags are sourced from. If they are maricultures, I take them in and blast them with light. I've found they tend to keep better colors when I do this instead of browning out. If I get a frag from a fellow reefer who keeps a lot of SPS as well, I put them exactly where I want them to be irregardless of light level as I'll assume they run their par equally high as mine. For frags from tanks I know little about, I start them on the sandbed in decent flow and lower light. Then I slowly acclimate it to higher light. I say this next statement with some caveats but... I've never killed a SPS frag due to too much light... Never! I've bleached the heck out of it until it was pure white... But none have ever died. I have however killed a couple with what I believe to be too little light. The caveat being that water conditions in my tank were ideal for SPS and the frag was healthy in the first place.
  23. Oiy... See you in 3 days! Come on RO/DI! [emoji6]
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