FarmerTy
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Everything posted by FarmerTy
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I do get a little overzealous with the cutting sometimes. I'll learn! It was real hard to pull myself away from the tank last night and go to bed. The frag tank just looked so pretty....
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I guess I officially sell frags at swaps now...
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Well for a sea hare, you wouldn't have to worry about the tomont stage (encysted stage) as it does not have a hard body for encystment to even occur on. I can see that on a snail shell or something else but from a purely biological point-of-view, you should be pretty safe. Same reason it works on fish, no hard surfaces on the body for the tomont to stick to.
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Wow, I always thought my conchs were the most entertaining things in my tank but turns out they are useful too. Last night I put a few more acros back in the main tank: Put two conchs on the frag: This morning... Voila:
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If you're just worried about ich, do the tank transfer method on the sea hares. It'll only take 12 days and then into the DT they go so they don't starve to death first.
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Here are my submissions so far for the year. No need to send a reminder as by the end of the year, you'll probably ask me to stop sending pictures at that point. Great idea Brian. I can't wait to see a full year of the changes in my tank. Good thing I never change anything so we should only be seeing growth. [emoji6] 12/12/2015 12/16/2015 1/12/2016 1/18/2016 2/2/16 2/4/16 2/6/16
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Looks like it to me. I've had this happen before where I used chemiclean to remove a cyano outbreak without resolving the underlying nutrient issue and I got dinos instead. Much much worse than cyano by far. Only way I beat it was to increase nutrient removal and dosing hydrogen peroxide at 1ml/10 gals of tank water for a few weeks. If your outbreak is small, take care of it ASAP before it gets out of hand.
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Either way, sorry for your losses. If it makes you feel any better, you probably saved my three fish in treatment by checking in on them and giving them their meds this past weekend.
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Definitely a thought for sure about leaching of chemicals. I believe Dena had her fish in a tub for over a year but I don't know if there were significant fish deaths. Ol'aggie is currently keeping his fish in a tub as well. Maybe he'll chime in on any fish losses.
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This would be an awesome belated birthday present to me to organize my wires and equipment while I'm gone at the swap Sunday. Oh yeah, let's do a blue background for me too. Just saying... [emoji6]
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What are your nitrates? Any ammonia detected? Nitrite? Bacterial infections? I'm having a heck of a time with my fish in the tub with an early bacterial infection that 3 fish caught but they are doing much better now after treatment. It's just hard to keep water quality high in the tub for some reason. I guess I just bank on nutrient removal via technology like in my DT, where in this situation I really just need to be relying on water changes. How often are you doing water changes?
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Ocean Revive S026 leds is what he used for the last build. I'm using the digital versions, the Ocean Revive T247s.
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Great adventure. Thank you for sharing and glad everything turned out well. FYI, I always have chopsticks nearby.
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It honestly hasn't been proven one way or the other but crushed coral would inhibit you keeping sand sifting/burrowing fish/inverts. Don't get a sand sifting star, it'll destroy the microfauna in your sand, clear the sandbed entirely out in a month or so, and then die. My 215-gallon wouldn't even have enough to support it long-term in my opinion. It's all preference for which you run with. I would not recommend mixing it as nature has a way of sorting the mixture and you'll end up with the look of crushed coral, without any of the ability of the finer sand. I'd go one or the other.
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My guess is the Phosguard dropped your phosphates too fast and ticked off your blastos. The observed recovery when moving it lower may have just been a coincidence as by then, it probably adjusted to the change in phosphate levels. That or typically when a coral is stressed, they can become sensitive to higher light so you moving them down helped them cope. My clownfish will try to remove anything placed near their "spot". I don't think they are doing it because something may be dying.
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I had a tighter space to work with so I bought a plastic cereal storage container. No handle but I just pick it up and pour it outside.
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I'd just do some water changes and monitor them. It's pretty hard to kill mushrooms.
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Are you really that interested in how many quarts of fish poop you have stored away? [emoji23]
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Holy cow, it just hit me that you read 2189 posts!
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I'm so sorry for your loss... Of precious time! I'll see if the boss man of ARC can hand out badges for being "FarmerTy thread survivors".
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Sorry Don, have all three but they are all just frags themselves right now.
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I have a 6-bulb T5 unit you can borrow if needed. It's 48" though and has a random assortment of old bulbs but should work in a pinch. That or you can borrow a 400-watt MH for a bit as well.
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Most bacterial treatments are at least 4 days in duration. I'd just do the wait and see approach and see if it heals on its own first.
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Probably just cut itself while burrowing into the sand. I'd just keep an eye on it and see if it heals naturally. If it starts looking infected, I'd treat with an antibiotic such as Furan 2 or something similar. There are many options. The hardest thing would be catching it for treatment though in a hospital tank. My best advice is to spook it into the sand. Then take two nets on either side of that spot and slowly close in on it until it pops out of the sand into a net. Normally I like to leave a tupperware container full of sand in the tank for it to dive into but since you're treating with medication, I'd forgo the sand as it can absorb medication and lower its effectiveness. A couple of PVC fittings will have to do for shelter in this case if treatment is needed.
