FarmerTy

No offense taken sir. [emoji4]

None, but I feel no need for it to be controlled via my Apex. On/off is all I need. It does have 2 channels that can be controlled independently, blues and white + misc. I use that for my dawn/dusk effect.

If only I had Ty Ta as my Coral Agent! I keep my ears to the ground for those pocket listings of acro colonies for you Brooks! We'll get them next time!!!

Dang! It's like the real estate market in here!

I think it's totally worth it for the fish and for me at least, detritus isn't really the enemy in any tank that has a good oversized skimmer and methods in place to remove nitrates and phosphates. I haven't removed detritus manually (besides what gets sucked up in my skimmer) for 3 years in my old 125-gallon. There was literally 1/2" to 1" of detritus in my sump! In my new 215-gallon, the same thing, about 3 years now, no detritus removal ever manually, and things aren't blowing up for me. Just adding my experience with it.

Maybe we can get someone in the club to buy one of these! https://reefbuilders.com/2016/02/19/apogee-sq-mq-500-quantum-meter-par-sensor/

Yeah, setosa and red cap will show lighter colors in low light as well but my jedi mind trick always looks the same regardless of high or lower light.

Okay good, you're much crazier than me. That gives me hope that my plan may work out after all! Thank you sir!

I like the look of the left side! Great start! The cave will be a bit of detritus city in there but the fish will appreciate it. I wish I had built more caves into my structures.

I'm not sure who you were replying to. The California Tortuosa would be cheaper than the Oregon Tortuosa. Raymond was replying to the OP.

I was thinking angels before tangs. What do you think I should do tangs before angels?

You joke but it may happen! Who wants ich free, intestinal worm free, and fluke free fish that are already eating?

What a steal! Brooks!!!

Same once I get the powder blue and achilles. Put them into a tank together with baffles and let them get used to each other. Heck, I may just throw all my tangs in a tub and watch the free for all and separate any that fight until they get used to each other.

I'll say, my two biggest concerns are the majestic/flame/potters angel getting along and the purple tang/achilles/powder blue getting along. So far the flame has harassed the majestic in the tub so I had to separate them. I may put the flame/majestic/potters in a separate tank with baffles dividing them and let them all get used to each other for a couple weeks. Then remove the baffles and see what happens.

Oh already polled your answer before you even replied. Remind me what tangs you have in your tank again? I was going to ask you what your ongoing list is. That way I can say, well there's one guy crazier than me and it's working for him.

Go crazy Bpb!

In an ideal world, matching your main DT lights are best. Less room for acclimation stress with fresh cut frags being put in the frag tank if they came from the same lighting and even par level. You could always find a used BML fixture or just go with one of the Kessil or Radions. Personally, I'd throw a cheap fixture over it like the Ocean Revive T247s and call it a day. It's a frag tank, lighting it with a super expensive light defeats the purpose in my eyes if you're trying to just make some money on the side to keep funding your hobby.

I'd definitely find room for a purple plus. Much less par but it'll help with your reds and oranges.

Hello ARC, I was running through the options in my head of reintroduction of my fish while thinking about the much anticipated day of March 3rd, this Thursday, as the day my fish can finally return to my tank after the 76 day fallow period to remove ich entirely from my tank. No more ich-maintained tank for me! It's going to be all gone! Well... hopefully, if I did it all correctly. Anyways, I'm filling out my final stock list versus what I currently have, and was planning to compile an order of reintroduction. I'm not looking for a discussion of what I can and can't have in the tank but more so looking of what order the introduction should occur. The new stock won't be arriving for another 1-2 weeks, in which they will still need to go through 12 days of tank transfer method and another 5-10 days of observation before introduction. Current stock: TANGS -orange shoulder tang (6") -yellow belly hippo tang (5") -purple tang (3") -blonde naso tang (3") ANGELS -emperor angel (6") -flame angel (4") -majestic angel (3") MISC -flame hawkfish (3") -two percula clowns (4" and 3") -leopard wrasse (3") -cleaner wrasse (3") -4 lyretail anthias (2-3" each) -midas blenny (3") New Stock (arriving in 2 weeks, need to be QTed for 3 weeks before introduction): -pyramid butterfly fish (3"-4") -powder blue tang (4"-5") -achilles tang (4"-5") -flame wrasses (3") -potters leopard wrasse (3") -potters angel (3") So what I'm thinking is this plan below, to slowly reintroduce fish so that the DT doesn't get overwhelmed with the large fish load again. I have been ghost feeding the DT but will ramp it up even more to get it used to a higher bioload. This Thursday: -clowns -leopard wrasse -midas blenny -lyretails if they are healthy enough. Towards the end of the QT some have succumbed to a bacterial infection -hawkfish -blonde naso, he's the smallest tang and nasos are generally pretty mild-mannered so future additions of tangs won't even phase him Once new stock are QT'ed: -pyramid butterfly fish -flame wrasses -potters leopard wrasse -cleaner wrasse Two weeks after that: -majestic angel -potters angel -flame angel -emperor angel Two weeks after that: -orange shoulder tang -achilles tang -powder blue tang -purple tang -yellow belly hippo tang Thoughts? Am I crazy?

That's no bristle worm! Eunicid worm... aka, bobbit worm! Yikes! http://www.advancedaquarist.com/blog/if-you-thought-big-bristleworms-were-scary

That's really weird. I ran my 3 MH ballasts for years plugged into a power strip, which was then plugged into my Apex. Do you think it has something to do with that switched outlet? Can you plug it into a regular outlet that doesn't have a switch? Perhaps the switch is causing some type of power leakage when you first flip it on? I can see that triggering the ballast to not complete the lighting process as it needs the full amount of power at once and for it to be sustained to light the bulb. Having a switch that hiccups at all on the power will cause the ballast to be underpowered for a bit and not complete the lighting of the bulb. That's about my best layman's explanation of electricity I can muster on a Monday morning.

Thanks for the idea. Hmmm, unless my apex is acting up I can rule that out. I have a notification set up for a pretty tight window. I do get a little cooler right after a water change, like 1-2 degrees cooler for less than an hour. Think that's enough?Not at all... Hmmm... Your lighting schedule hasn't changed at all?Not at all. The only thing I can think of is I started weekly water changes without missing a week, and it used to be every other week-ish, so maybe it's a nutritional thing? My phosphate is the same as always and I don't test nitrates frequently because I always have a negligible amount, so even that doesn't seem likely. I feed the same as always. These corals just look sort of clear, but you can still see their color, if you know what I mean. They look florescent or something and it's not getting better. My pH has done some fluctuating. Any idea if that could cause something like this? Remind me of your system Kim. Are you carbon dosing? Skimmer? What are your nutrient levels? Do you know your par levels? Like Jestep mentioned, monti caps just have their own temperament sometimes and perhaps like he said, a delayed reaction to the alk dip. That wouldn't explain your soft corals looking pale either. I only see those looking pale when there isn't enough light or not enough nutrients in the system.

Alright, visitation rights up until you setup your new tank. Then you could grab them back. You drive a hard bargain sir.

+1, if a future tank upgrade is in your future, just get the 8 lamp one and call it a day. Run two bulbs in the off position if it's too much light, which I doubt that'll ever happen with acros. I had a majority of my corals in 300-500 par, with some at 600-800 par. You could also vary your bulb selections as some of the bulbs put out less par than others if needed.