FarmerTy
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Everything posted by FarmerTy
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That's the highest it will go with your adjustments? You've brought the riser tube/adjustment knob to its highest level?
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Now can you adjust the bubble level higher?
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You need to do the opposite, clear that junk out. Skimmer necks need to be clean to perform properly. Yes, they do need to be broken in but that's usually from the factory, as there are residual production chemicals that prevent the adherence of bubbles to the neck wall. After that though, your goal is to keep that neck clean, more stuff on it, less skimmate you'll pull.
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Nice work Kim! That thing would be a goner in my tank!
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what is that?He brews beer in his sump... [emoji14]
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Yeah, on my last reactor, I couldn't slow the flow one bit, it had to be fast to keep up. I burned through CO2 like nothing. This current reactor, I'm able to use a much slower flow and just keep a lower pH and it has been keeping up just fine. Something I tried in the last one with no avail.After running 4 different CaRX, I'm just chalking it up to the reactor. They all have a mind of their own! [emoji1]
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I would consider a guy with 5 peristaltic pumps more in control than out of control. [emoji6] Great price for them!
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Can you slow down your effluent flow a bit?
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Ditch the lids Christy!
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Did you leak test it with soapy water?
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Oh man. That's rough! You're starting to scare me off kids!
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We did 10 diodes a fixture. Reefbreeders sells them for $1.50/diode or you can order from China for half the cost.
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Woohoo! [emoji12] I wouldn't bother with microbacter as you're fighting dinoflaggelates and I personally think there is no need to add bacteria to outcompete it. Sure, they both may pull nutrients out of the water column but microbacter I would imagine is nitrifying bacteria and is mainly concerned with ammonia/nitrite versus dinos who are after your nitrates/phosphates. Raising the pH with kalk wouldn't be a terrible idea but you risk an alk overdose to achieve that. Plus, it's difficult to maintain the high pH which is needed.
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You can really just dose the peroxide in the tank as a whole tank treatment. I just use the daily amount and squirt it right at the stuff to help directly apply it. Just be careful around corals. The method itself doesn't require this direct application though. It's going to be a tough fight either way. Filters socks run in the 1 micron range are also helpful for physical removal of them as well from the water column. Sounds crazy but if you can introduce cyano to outcompete them, that is much easier to get rid of down the line.
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Fight the good fight Jen! Dead giveaway with dinos is your snails will start slowly dying one by one as time goes on.
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FarmerTy is but ORA is a close second.
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I think he's holding out for my ORA GHA. It's all about lineage with this guy.
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Shot another video, this time with the new warm white LEDs that I swapped into the Ocean Revive fixtures. I'm loving the warm, natural look! Just for comparison, here's the video I took a couple days before when I still had the stock LED diodes in the Ocean Revive fixtures.
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Those I decant in a beaker and dump in your sump when you aren't looking.
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Not mine, I dip everything. It's a vast empty wasteland. [emoji12]
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Eh, all those creepy crawlers make us tough! [emoji123][emoji12]Well call me one tough son-of-a-gun then because I'm been drinking that stuff from a hose for like 12 years now. [emoji1]
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It creeped me out late last night thinking about how much saltwater I've siphoned with a hose over the years.
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Doh! I mean, nice season's greeting you have there!
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Ditch the bettas Gig'em! Beer tastes much better! Then you'll have room.
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Looks good! You mean sunset monti? Otherwise, I cheated you then! [emoji14]
