FarmerTy

Very interesting! Thanks for the link. You learn something new everyday! I'll have to check the position of this one's mouth on the next transfer.

Well, now I'm thinking I didn't kill those other two wrasses by not being able to do a water change last weekend. What a jerk!

Thanks for the feedback. I would have never suspected but I've also never had any fairy wrasses in with him for the past year.

I think it's the cleaner. I saw him a second ago corner my flame wrasse in a PVC elbow. At first I thought it looked like over aggressive cleaning but he may have been attacking him.

I have a murderer! I haven't narrowed it down yet but I believe either the cleaner wrasse or the Hawaiian Elegant wrasse has been killing of my fairy wrasses. It's hard to observe while they are tub but I thought it was suspicious that I was losing wrasses one by one and there were physical marks on their bodies!

I'm going to start drying out my colonies now! I'm going to be rich!

I have the MTC Procal and yes, it self siphons. Irregardless of the feature, I found more consistent results feeding it off my return pump manifold. If you are getting back into SPS, Hanna alk should be in your toolbelt. Super easy to use and gives you no excuse to not test more. FTS looks great bud.

Nothing fancy but I hung the light on the frag tank. I just used some electrical conduit, bent it around a tree to get my curve, and then attached it to the stand of the tank. Cost me less than $7 for everything. I'll do some wire management later but just wanted to get it functioning at the moment. I still need to setup an ATO on the tank but that would be pretty straightforward since I have an Apex already hooked up to it. Time for some NBA playoffs after a good days work on the tank.

There was one at Aquatek.

-Setup ATO for frag tank and begin kalk dosing regiment -Find an elegant solution to mount the lights to the frag tank -Prep frags for MAAST swap next weekend -Pull out stupid anemone from DT and curse its name when Woods comes to pick it up -Glue back all colonies in the DT that will be moved to get to said anemone

Nothing like wondering why algae was starting to grow in the tank and then realizing you never cranked back up the flow on the GFO reactor two weeks ago when you replaced the media... [emoji53]

For the reefbrite XHO model, I have the full spectrum version, 50/50 blues/whites, and I was reading 150 par near the surface and about 50-75 par about 26" below surface of the water if that helps you for any potential calculations. That was with the old apogee sensor. You can actually borrow the 48" 50/50 reefbrite if you want to just throw it on there and see what potential par difference you would get. I have it pulled off my tank already since I threw the T5s on in their place. Just let me know.

Ahhh, awesome. Looks like it's going to hold you over nicely then.

Can you just steal the shaft from the new impeller? That way the bushings are more like stock than the newer impeller?

I wouldn't say kessils ever had the reputation of being par monsters, they have great color and the single-source light and shimmer were their main selling points. Color reproduction was always great if you get enough of them in a tank. When you have as many as you, coverage on a tank that size is just about right with the BMLs filling in the gaps. I don't know how much punch the BMLs add as I've never measured their par separately but I would imagine substantial. The reefbrites to me are more supplemental bulbs than anything. Honestly, if it were me, I wouldn't invest in PRO version of the reefbrites. Their par is on the low side, despite their exuberant price for them. They got a great reputation from their blue supplementation that is becoming the industry's modern version of the VHO Super actinic bulb for you old MH users but otherwise, I find their full spectrum fixtures lacking in color reproduction and par, especially for the price. Ever thought to do T5 retro? Maybe 2 bulbs spanning the entire length of your tank? You can measure my T5 output on my 3 that I added to get a baseline for what it would add to your system if you want.

Boo!

FWIW, I run full lights for 8 hrs, with 1 hr of dawn/dusk of only blues. Par values are about 500-600 at the top of the rock structures, 350 in the middle, and 100-200 on the sandbed, though this was measured with the older apogee sensor and not the one that Dan has that is geared more towards LEDs. Actually, come to think of it, this is without the T5s either as I added the 3- 60" T5 bulbs to the lighting rack as well after I took the readings.

I'm skepical of the color programs too except for Zeo, but that's too much work and money for me to have nicely colored, albeit pale, corals. Too much can go wrong with it too as I've seen a decent amount of posts about I overdosed this or that bottle of the zeo program and it wiped my tank. I dose aminos 2x/week and that's it. Good par, good flow, all parameters in range, and steady alk. I think having a good fish population is helpful as well but it needs to be balanced out with a higher nutrient removal. Here are the numbers I aim for: Ca - 420ppm Alk - 7.5-8.0 dKh Mg - 1500 ppm NO3 - 5-10 ppm PO4 - 0.03 ppm Just come check out the tank the next time you're ready to stock some more and you can check out the colors again in person. I think I finally found a sweet spot with the LED/T5 conversion from my long days of MH.

Is this part of your nitrate cycle studies? [emoji3]

Sorry, no. Its still sitting there doing its job as my backup. [emoji4]

Welcome to the hobby!

I wouldn't say constantly falling, I would say depressed. It just stays at a lower pH than a regular tank probably would. My pH is typically from 8.0 - 8.2.

Is this what I can use to make a kalk paste for aptasia? Yep

Totally impractical! That top glass would be frosted with so much condensation the whole time that it would render viewing from above impossible. It'd work if you rigged a fan to blow gently across the bottom of that glass though. [emoji4]

What kind of flooring?