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FarmerTy

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Everything posted by FarmerTy

  1. FarmerTy
    Yowzers! That might surprise you and heal right back up.
  2. FarmerTy
    Palys/zoas will always close up when peroxide is dosed. They typically open up like normal after 30-60 mins. I dosed with a giant colony of kryptonite candy canes with no issues, but kept it below the 1 ml/10gal rule for dosing for dinos.
  3. FarmerTy
    It probably wouldn't hurt to follow up with Mike just in case. I know he's pretty busy these days.
  4. FarmerTy
    Yeah, I see lots of losses with the colonies with all these major changes happening that housing some small frags of your old colonies in a small tank somewhere else would be easiest.
  5. FarmerTy
    New idea, sell all your acros and fund your new tank. Then buy back a frag from all your colonies and start the fun all over again.
  6. FarmerTy
    Got an idea for you, get a new tank, the tank that you've been wanting, with useable stand that you can actually fit stuff under... then start the tank with new sand and new rock, and when it's stable, catch all the fish out and run them through TTM for 12 days, then put them in the new tank. Run a QT for all your corals (only transfer coral flesh, no rock) and clean-up crew and 77 days later, put them into the new tank. Viola, problem solved. Tank you've always wanted, stand you've been needing, no aiptasia, no trash palys, no GSP, no ich... fresh start. [emoji4]
  7. FarmerTy
    Man, so you're removing all sand and all rocks! What about your sump/fuge? Aiptasia down there?
  8. FarmerTy
    You going to go sand then or stick with crushed coral?
  9. FarmerTy
    Having parasites constantly embedded into your skin is probably no picnic in the park for the fish either! If you are going to do it, I'd buy new rock, seed it, then slowly swap out rocks until all the old rock is gone. Obviously don't let any old rock touch the new rock. Are you going to leave your crushed coral substrate as well? Have any aiptasia grown on that?
  10. FarmerTy
    I'd be surprised if there's a correlation between hydrogen peroxide and the death of the shrimp. I had one in my tank the entire time I dosed hydrogen peroxide to get rid of dinos and it had no effect on the shrimp. I even doubled the recommended amount of hydrogen peroxide with no issues to the tank. That being said, I have no idea how much peroxide you actually used during each session. The rule for treating dinos is 1ml/10gals of water.
  11. FarmerTy
    When I said I'm pulling all my fish to have an ich free tank, you told me I was crazy. I'll return you the favor... You're nuts! [emoji12]
  12. FarmerTy
    For sure, put a nozzle on it or an eductor/penductor.
  13. FarmerTy
    I knew I shouldn't have opened your build thread!No, those two fish got an infection last time too the first go-around in QT so I've been watching them carefully and noticed it happening again. I've treated them with a medley of Furan 2 and Kanaplex and it already looks better after 24hrs. The emperor started eating again and his mouth is not as red anymore. The hippo is still being a hippo and acting all weird but he looks better as well. They are just odd fish so I see nothing out of the ordinary with him.
  14. FarmerTy
    Looks like the yellow belly hippo had a little infection as well.
  15. FarmerTy
    Welcome to the club!
  16. FarmerTy
    I wonder why it was built so low?
  17. FarmerTy
    Yes, I'd remove from the canister and put them directly in the sump.
  18. FarmerTy
    Sorry, move what? The matrix or the limestone?
  19. FarmerTy
    It will supplement some of it for sure.
  20. FarmerTy
    Sorry, I did see the skimmer and just forgot about it when I posted. It will definitely help and just keep in mind you are fighting phosphates as well in a reef system. For your question on limestone, yes, it probably is live right now. The longer term issue is that it is just not as porous as live rock is, so no matter how seasoned it gets with bacteria, it will never have the capacity that live rock has to filter. So, that's why I mentioned it is just going to handicap you when your bioload gets larger over time. Then when you realize that is the issue, swapping out the limestone for live rock may be much harder to do without some losses to your system.
  21. FarmerTy

    Hi everyone!

    FarmerTy replied to TxSkyGuy's topic in Welcome

    Welcome to the club! I don't think I'll be taking you up on skydiving for frags but that is a pretty cool idea for those people that don't get motion sick just sitting in a car. [emoji5]
  22. FarmerTy
    Hi Frankin, So, because you asked, here's what I'm thinking after looking at your video and seeing the setup. 1) I'd highly recommend eventually replacing a majority of the limestone for live rock. While it'll work for now, eventually your bioload is going to increase and limestone just doesn't have the biofiltering capacity that live rock has. Basically, I think your tank will end up with tons of algae and potential ammonia/nitrite issues. 2) Ditch the canister filter. They tend to be nitrate traps for a saltwater setup, though they are widely used for freshwater. I've never kept a freshwater setup but I'd imagine their widespread use is because nitrate is not a big deal with freshwater setups. With saltwater and corals, the nitrates will affect the corals and if high enough, will kill them. So I'd ditch the canister filter, o-rings, all of that, and instead run reactors or a skimmer down the line. Not a necessity but I feel like the current setup will lead you down the road to tons of algae and nutrient problems after the initial break-in period of the tank. 3) For cooling, no chiller needed. Just buy a cheap walmart fan for $10, clip it on your sump and let it blow across the surface. You'll end up topping off your water more but much cheaper than a chiller. I hope I don't sound too critical. I'm just trying to point out potential setup choices that may cause you issues down the road so that the tank doesn't become an algae farm and you get discouraged from it. I'd start a build thread and start posting your equipment and setup. There are many on the club that would be happy to lend advise if desired. We've all collectively been there when starting our first tank and the many pitfalls we hit along the way.
  23. FarmerTy
    Good looking scape! Looks like a great job to me! Is that live rock or limestone? I'd also maybe recommend running a slightly cooler temperature if possible as well. It'll help keep you algae growth to a minimum in the 78-80 range.
  24. FarmerTy
    You just want to clear that frag rack! Yeah, how about 7pm when it starts? I probably won't stay too long tonight, gotta help the wife study for her licensing exam.
  25. FarmerTy
    Stealing my corals! Oh no you don't! [emoji4]
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