FarmerTy

You mean this thing? You must be mistaking me for another Farmer. [emoji6] This magfloat frag rack was for pieces to heal a bit before transferring to the frag tank.

I would go for the biggest sump you can get in the stand personally, but I think 75-90 gallons will do you right. That's what I have for my 215-gallon tank. For frozen foods, I'd also supplement with pellets on an autofeeder so that when you do happen to leave to go out of town, the pellets can administer at least a maintenance dose of food while you're gone. This way, the fish will already be accepting of pellet foods and can buy you more time to actually have a life and take longer vacations without having to worry about starving fish or having to inconvenience friends/family to come by and feed your tank daily.

I've used neodymium magnets in the past for my stand build and they are very strong for their size. I still wouldn't trust the epoxy coated ones though in the water as the coating scratches easily, hence why I didn't want to add magnets or modify the mag flat to accomplish this. The goal was just to understand the optimal placement of the egg crate material for the most resistant application for this DIY frag rack.

Thank you for the feedback. Simplicity was the focus and not wanting to modify anything was ideal in this situation. It seems to be holding just fine currently.

Well if you're emptying the display, you don't really have to worry about making new water then and matching it so that eliminates one variable.

Depends how you are planning to set it up. Are you going to use a pump to pump water into it and let it drain into your sump? Or are you going to use gravity to let it drain into the tub and then drain into the sump?I did the drain from DT to drain to sump initially but found it a bit temperamental and the possiblity of overflow a bit scary. I then went with a pump pumping from the sump to the tub and letting it drain back into the sump. I liked this configuration better and there wasn't a giant tube running from my DT down to the tub. I had to elevate the tub to allow it to drain properly into the sump. I took two cheap ottomans that I had laying around and threw a 3/4" thick piece of plywood over it to make a makeshift elevated platform for the tub. Worked perfect. I'm sure you can do the same with a couple of cinder blocks. When you first start, make enough water to fill the tub and match it as best you can to your DT parameters. I'd definitely add ball valves to the drain line into the sump so you can tweak the flow rate to match the incoming water. Also, leave both drain tubes above the water line. I've had it overflow twice on me because of a submerged line. Causes pressure issues if there is ever an interruption of the incoming flow and the drain flow siphon will sometimes not restart with water already sitting in the tube if you have the effluent side under the water line. Good luck. Hope it works out for you. I still think you're crazy but I guess most people think a lot of the things I do are crazy as well so I'm in good company. [emoji4]

Then if possible, I would raise the skimmer to sit a little higher in the water. That will give you a little more flexibility to lower the water in the skimmer so it won't overflow, even on its lowest setting.

I'd use saltwater, add bacteria in a bottle to help quick cycle, no water changes, and throw a pump in there to keep water circulated. I'd check phosphate levels after 2-3 days in the water, if high, I'd use lanthanum chloride or GFO to start stripping phosphate from the water. If using lanthanum chloride, I'd drip it in a 10 micron or smaller filter sock. You can find them on eBay for a reasonable price.

You can't just adjust the valve to prevent it from overflowing?

Man, rough crowd! Don't make me go Hulk-Ty on you guys! Window looks good man. Let me know when you need me to throw one of these guys through the next one. [emoji123]

Looks pretty good to me Jeremy. Knowing you, it'll be covered in coral growth in no time.

Look at that precision cut in the glass. The guy must be a criminal mastermind.

I DO have a question. I got a small GBTA, temp acclimated him, then turned off the stronger of my 2 circ pumps and gently wedged him between two rocks in a low current area. He attached quickly and after 30 min I turned my circ back on. He has now moved inward away from the light, "Toward The Dark Side". The light has been on the whole time and he is now tucked almost completely underneath a rock, and the light will be going off shortly. I know it's very early, and I'm not concerned so much as wondering is there any steps I should take to help him. -- {60g tank, 6 small fish, ocellaris (who I got the GBTA for) all reef friendly}. Thanks in advance for any advice.BTA's prefer to have their foot in a dark cave or behind the rocks and then reach out to soak up the light. I'm sure your BTA is just getting settled. Give it a little time and once its comfortable, it'll start expanding out from the shadows.

4-6 is what I would do.

76? [emoji4]

He goes by photodude (jakedoza). You can probably send him a personal message to get his attention.

Standard is 42 days fallow for velvet and 76 days for ich. I do not know for brooklynella.

Glad you decided to join! Welcome!

That makes absolute sense. Thank you for the visual bud!

That was my original problem was it kept tipping over when the rack was on top. Now, I'm also working with 3/4" thick glass so it does present some problems with magnet strength and my rack was loaded.

Heck yeah! I'll take that! I love that bbq chicken pizza!

I'm an idiot... in the end it doesn't really matter. Just flip it and test it in real life and report back which way holds up more weight. I still think my original hypothesis will prove correct.

You can buy me a beer and a couple slices of pizza. Wait... RCA already does that for their Friday sale.

Got a question for the ARC brain trust. I'm working on making a cheap DIY frag rack with a magnetic scraper and some eggcrate. I've actually made one before and want to improve on the design. I've been playing the scenario over and over in my head and to me, it makes more sense to add the rack to a bottom of a magnetic scraper than the top. My reasoning would be that that either scenario would create a fulcrum at the bottom of the magnet but it would be more resistant to flipping down and dumping all my frags on the sand if the rack was placed at the bottom of the magnet to minimize leverage. Aim I correct in this line of thinking? It's been awhile since my last physics class.

I didn't graduate anything but I'll be there!