victoly
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Everything posted by victoly
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sold
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If Clint's "payment" isn't up to par, I'll take it.
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I would be that you could add the bulk of the small fish (blennies, cardinals) in one shot no big deal. I'd wait on the mandarin until you're positive you can sustain the food source. After that, if it were me, I'd add one of the big fish at a time (wrasses and hogfish). And as for sand sifters, I have a yasha hase goby, and it's pretty easily my favorite tank inhabitant. He hides 50% of the time, but is so freakin cool that its worth it.
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I totally get it and im totally jealous.
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Is that a helfrechi I spy in there ?
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Xenia. Not even once.
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Did you have a second float:?
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Programming apex through the display
victoly replied to KimP's topic in Reef Controllers (AC3, Apex, RK, Reef Angel, etc.)
I would set it to like 84 on the heater (to see if you can get it to engage), and then max our your heat at 80 in the apex. if i had a spare heater I'd offer it -
Programming apex through the display
victoly replied to KimP's topic in Reef Controllers (AC3, Apex, RK, Reef Angel, etc.)
My heater outlet failed and i had NO idea. The heater stayed on all summer long, chiller cycled for an entire summer and i thought it was just because i was running closed tops -
Programming apex through the display
victoly replied to KimP's topic in Reef Controllers (AC3, Apex, RK, Reef Angel, etc.)
ACK! do you have a laptop and a router? you dont have to have an internet connection, all you have to do is be on the same network. i would go that route before i cranked a heater up to max (unless its an undersized heater). -
not using BRS HC? BLASPHEMER!
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FWIW, mines under 250w MH, radium 20k, on the sandbed at the moment.
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Much improved. The "skin" is starting to darken up again, the polyps never lost their coloration. It was either a brightness or spectrum issue. My leading growth edge is white though, not green. Don't know if that will change with time.
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The forest fire I had (from ty) did not respond well at all to a lighting change.
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I've got one of these, and it's amazing. Great price.
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I believe Ty has both. I have a frag of forest fire that I bleached out a but that you could have.
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45 man hours later, here's what i made for my wife
victoly replied to KevinB's topic in Off Topic Discussion
I was gonna say, i don't recognize it as GoT unless there's someone wandering around topless. -
Did my part as well: RODI (from the storage container, not fresh from the tap) - 0.00 Tap - 0.43
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I think you're making too many changes at once. A recipe for trouble IMO.
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I would say no.
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The only downside to that is that you're still going to be dosing the tank with ammonia because you're treating leftover chloramine in the water that will eventually go into your tank. An additional byproduct of the sodium thiosulfate (prime)/chloramine reaction is that you get some sulfate as well. I haven't done the stoichiometry and figured out whether those levels are worth the cost, but for me personally I'd rather get it all done in a single process at the cost of, well, co$t. For a FOWLR, it probably won't make a lick of difference.
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Ask richardL how adding all that dry sand worked! It's not without risk.
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It's an additional chamber (one for a pentek chloramine specific replaces your standard carbon filter a loose carbon canister called "catalytic carbon"). There are several total chlorine testers, and some chlorine testers (so you can just subtract one from the other to find chloramine or in CoA's case, you know they only use chloramine so total chlorine = chloramine). Chloramine definitely gets through standard RODI, but there is debate amongst the group about whether the amount that gets through is harmful to your tank.
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Like jamie said, chloramine is a different beast than chlorine, and is much harder to remove. Spend 20 bucks and buy a bottle of prime and sleep better at night.
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You definitely, definitely should dechlorinate (prime or other sodium thiosulfate) if you're not going use a full RODI setup.
