victoly

I don't know if you have a build thread setup already, and if you do I can continue this there, but I'll just drop one thing: You may be working against yourself by having a wet/dry component with bioballs. If you intend to have a DSB and LR/LS in the display tank, you should have ample biological filtration. Bioballs are fine at converting NH3->NO4->NO3, but if you don't stay on top of cleaning out the bioballs (removing them and rinsing out detritus with RO or NSW), in addition to having good mechanical filtration prior to where they enter the bioballs, they have a tendency to have longterm nitrate creep. At best they are a redundancy to your system, at worst they are a nitrate problem. Ultimately this kind of all hinges on what you intend to keep, so if you have a build thread, point me there and we can chat in a more appropriate place.

Well it's not. And I do. And they don't....So....

dadgumit mike, did you purposefully put the meeting at 2 pm so that dutiful longhorns watching the end of the TX/OU game would not be able to attend? Game time starts at 11 am, so it's doubtful that the game will be over prior to 2 pm. I'd still like to attend, but if I do I'll be late.

I'm a tentative yes at this point. I'll confirm with management.

I wonder if the ULNS mechanism and the temperature mechanism are the same?

That's a really interesting read with how it pertains to reefkeeping. They made the observation that right before bleaching that "dazzling colors" were displayed, something that SPS keepers shoot for. I guess it's a bit different in that they used high temperatures to induce the stress instead of ULNS, but it seems that there might be some correlation. I'm off to make a "temperature reactor" to get my SPS to color up

I guess I just don't see the point of going on a monologue about a particular subject with the expectation that there won't be any response. And if there is response, that it is somehow combative.

It's 100% effective in terms of reducing the amount of nutrients in your water by whatever percentage that you take out. You can diet all you want, but the only way to lose 30 pounds for sure is to chop off your leg.

If you have kids under 17, THEY can collect without license. However, to keep, you end up needs a permit anyway, so it's kind of a non-starter. Plus their little hands fit in between the rocks so much better than adult hands. In addition to the license, you'll need a saltwater stamp since you're collecting in, uh, saltwater.

Mmmmk I'll take the bait. Water changes are the only 100% effective method of nutrient reduction. It is impossible for skimmers, biopellets, DSBs or any other method to have complete reduction. This does not take into account the added bonus that water changes replenishes all of the necessary minerals. It is a single tier that a vast majority of successful hobbyists take to ensure the health of their tank. With respect to conservation, the amount of water used by hobbyists in central Texas even with the largest tanks, even losing 4:1 on wastewater vs RODI water, is infinitesimally small compared to the total overall water budget. I would posit that you could supply all the RODI water necessary to every reef tank in Austin, simply by having a single street cease watering their yards for a summer. I'm not saying conservation isn't worthwhile (it is), it's just that hobbyist use almost nothing when compared to residential usage. The pattern that I have observed is that you make generalized recommendations based on your operation. An operation which is unlike almost every other reef keeper on this board. You have large tanks, producing macro algae, with tons of NO3/PO4. There is literally only one other person that does this in the area. You are proof positive that it can be done, but for nearly everyone else, water changes are a valid longterm solution in the hobby. Furthermore, to have new members come to the board and read that they shouldn't be doing water changes is, in my opinion, not in the best interest of the hobby. When they fail because their tank becomes an algae farm, and they leave, it's one less person to support local industries and this club.

went, was not disappointed.

Absolutely not. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

rox is amongst the best, but I still do it.

great to have another oakhiller in the mix. I'm in the scenic brook area.

Something people should be aware of, with respect to GFO, is that if you are running carbon, that if the carbon is not high quality that it has phosphate leaching potential. To be sure you're not introducing PO4 via your carbon, you need to soak it in RO and change daily until you have a zero reading for phosphate.

Link it, and they will come.

sign me up for the GB,

Ok, let's start fresh here. McJudge has the right idea. I'm gonna go kindergarten here, don't take offense, I'm just trying to give you a step by step. I'll flesh this out in an edit when I get home and can access my uverse residential gateway. 1) You need to access your router (usually uverse is 192.168.1.254, type it into your browser). 2) Find the section that sets your router's IP (it should currently read 192.168.1.1) 3) Change it to 192.168.0.1 4) Change your gateway to 192.168.0.1 5) You may want to reboot your router at this point. 6) Plug your apex in via an ethernet cable to your uverse RG (residential gateway or modem) 7) Type in http://apex to your broswer hopefully at this point you can access your apex and tweak. if this doesnt work, for steps 3 & 4, try 192.168.1.1 in both fields. Let us know! I have a question teach. Why do you change the rounter's IP to ...0.? What is that going to do for the Apex? Also, my Apex connects via a internet bridge. So it is wireless. Do I need to hard line it to the router? because different routers come with different IP configurations from the manufacturer. If the IP that the apex is supposed to see (the 0 vs the 1) is different than the one that is there, they wont communicate.

Before I call around, anyone know who does what tests, and for how much?

at first read, i thought you said building raptors with students. BUILDING RAPTORS? YES PLEASE.

how DARE you talk about me like that

tim can you tell us a little more about your setup/experience? i got a dsa 190g tank and been running bio pellets for about 3 years now. i like my biopellets it allows me for less maintance, (water changes) I did get cyano w/ the biopellets and just used chemiclean to fix that but noticed if ran with a UV sterilizer I didnt get any. One issue you need to know is biopellets will bring down nitrate but not as stong effect on phosphate. i run Rowaphos with mine and carbon also. You do have to over feed if you do not you will start to get STN in SPS. i've gotten great results with them and color. if you start to see your colors get pale add some amino acids in to the tank. not sure what else you want me to say. feel free to ask me anything just what I was after. What reactor do you use and how much media do you run at a given time? Do you tweak the flow, and if so how do you determine how much to restrict?

yeah, i think mFrame is doing one currently. club prez gets gud discounts

shooting fish in a barrel?