victoly

well that's the correct outcome, but i thought you didn't have one with a cat5 connector? #edit NM, looked at the driver wire colors in your pic, makes more sense now.

hmmm, so you can't shed light on the cat5 issue then. womp womp.

what happens if you use a cut cat5 plugged into the light and apply voltage to it? It sounds to me like the pins are wrong, or there is something very, very wrong with the design.

depends on the type. some nuts come with a watersealing lubricant that you probably don't want in your tank. probably just best to go ahead and pull it out.

WEIRD. the drivers aren't PWM are they?

Is it possible That they have the voltages reversed. For instance it's on 100% at 0 V and then off at 10 V? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

i think its probably the v1/v2 issue i talked about. everyone assumes v1 should correspond to p1, but thats just not the case.

oh ok, well then which pins are BMLED using for control is the operative question. also check your PMs chris, business proposition.

you take a voltmeter and put it at the ends of the wire you made and the voltage should correspond to whatever percentage you have set by the apex (i.e., 10% ramp should show 1v, 90% should show 9v). If you dont have a voltage showing, then you either have the wires mapped to the wrong Vx (specifically i think youre probably mapping to v1 instead of v2), or the wires aren't correctly connected inside the cat5 cable. After going through exactly what you are, next time i would just buy the dang cables from apex.

what i suspect the issue is, that you have selected the incorrect wires from the cat5 wire bundle. here is the pinout for a standard cat5 cable: I'm going to assume you're using the 1/2 (white/orange and orange). If not, you should be. This cable should be plugged into the V1/V2 cable and you should be using V2 to create your LED outlet. It's kind of confusing that they don't use pin 1 for V1. look on page 60 of the official APEX guide here to see which pins correspond to which v/1/2/3/4 outlets: http://www.neptunesystems.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Comprehensive-Reference-Manual-v1_0.pdf Let us know how this works and we'll keep troubleshooting. You should also just test your fixture in case. use a 9v battery to the dimmer terminals, and it should be pretty dang bright (90% brightness).

Can you measure the wires from the cat5 while its connected to measure the voltage ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

turn off your blue LEDs

too rich for my blood. wish i could though

i've got some zoas or montipora that i could trade if you're interested.

barebottom tank

i'm certainly doing my part

those are probably the coolest one's ive ever seen. I'd be interested to see what ASD has in the way of singles to combine with this shipment.

I work for Solarwinds...SNMP based tank monitoring is already on my todo list. Every time i drive by that building I get jealous of the location.

i think that has happened to me before. except without mollies. or shrimp. or spirulina.

candy.

you may have issues with the shape of the tank and whether or not you're going to get acceptable flow patterns. I have no doubt that an MP40 could produce sufficient flow for at least part of the tank, but what I would be nervous of is whether or not you'd have to really crank that puppy up to get flow across the entire tank, and in doing so create a sandstorm on the side of the tank where the pump is located. perhaps you can borrow someones MP40 on the forum to test it out.

yeah, echoing the sentiments for the single screw in LED. a kessil is going to be overkill IMO. you could always use the screw in for a fuge or in sump frag area down the road.

ill take the breakout

+infinity eheim. if quiet is where you wanna be, eheim is how you get there. TM