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victoly

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Everything posted by victoly

  1. Mine took about two weeks to start to regain color from a GFO related alkalinity issue. I tend to agree with juiceman though, since your PE/Growth is still good, what are your nutrient levels at?
  2. How are your water parameters over time, from when you purchased it to now?
  3. Just PM Rvitko on RC (he's the head of Tunze USA) and he'll get you set up. I am exceptionally impressed with the way he runs his business and customer service.
  4. welcome! I hope your move to Austin proves fortuitous.
  5. His apex has the capability, it just had a malfunction and stopped working.
  6. i guess the bottom line is, if it helps you sleep better, it's worth it. You've got a lot of money invested in your livestock, you may as well take steps to protect it and give yourself peace of mind.
  7. i guess the real question here is, could your CaRx be tuned lower such that the solenoid isn't kicking on and off? I'm no expert on CaRxs by a long shot, but I would think that you could avoid some headache that way.
  8. Reef octopus CR 140. New pump, new top O-ring. Very good condition. $140 sold Aqua C urchin. In sump skimmer. Needs an MJ1200. $65 sold Intank media rack for bc29 $25 Chlorine test strips One is for chlorine only, the other is chloramine and total chlorine. FREE COME GET EM.
  9. I would say it depends on two things: Thing 1: Are you housing livestock in your sump? If so, it makes more sense to have a redundant pH probe in sump. Thing 2: as a corollary to thing 1, if your CaRx dumps into the influent side of the sump, passing OVER said livestock, it again makes sense to have a redundant pH probe. Realistically, you are backing up a backup, to save the media in your CaRx, because your DT pH probe *should* catch a dangerous drop in pH. Seems like the economics don't support the cost of an extra pH probe + calibration vs the cost of an entire container of media.
  10. that works for me. maybe ill be able to find mitch this time
  11. I'm in for probably at least 50 as well, to get in on the shipping bonanza.
  12. Professionally speaking, ORP probes need more frequent calibration than pH probes to give you good data, and unless you're running ozone, it isn't really a great indicator of water quality. Like the juice said, just watching rising and falling. As for salinity, it's another parameter that's just going to give you a failsafe (i.e., OH CRAP I DUMPED ALL MY ATO WATER!). IMO, neither are worth the expense and calibration duties.
  13. For that kind of money, you'd be better off with an oceans motion if you're looking for random flow.
  14. this one isn't out of the realm of possibility: http://www.dultmeier.com/products/0.689.1019.2208.3862/2365
  15. it's the way of the world when it comes to reefing! The stand and storage units look great. Good thinking on just adding extra storage pods!
  16. yeah, the electric ones run about 300 bucks a pop for a used valve, though I wouldn't recommend that route. The quest to automate everything is a very expensive task
  17. a living breathing precision marine advert . Your attention to detail on the operations side is very good!
  18. ohhhh, I see what you're saying. To answer your question, yes they do exist, yes I have used them (not for aquariums, for groundwater treatment) and holy moly the good ones are expensive. What flow are you wanting to turn on/off? The irrigation valves are very restrictive to flow (they have something like 1/8" opening in a diaphragm), so unless you were using it to do auto shutoff, or something where backpressure or flow restriction wasn't a big issue, it might work. Depends on application though.
  19. For on/off, ball valves are fine. If you want to control flow with accuracy, gate valves are the way to go. Cepex makes some very high quality ball valves, though they are pricey (available from BRS), but the ball valves you get at HD or Lowes will work (make sure you get a valve with true unions so you can replace if they crap out!). As for gate valves, I prefer spears brand, which you can get at grainger, or potentially other places locally.
  20. Can you not put your returns in through your overflow box ? That way everything is incorporated into the only black obstructive box in your tank.
  21. Can you maybe sketch out a schematic ? I'd love to help bounce ideas, but I'm a visual problem solver. As far as having a check valve incorporated into any failure point, I'd be very weary. I've used many in more industrial settings where they are well maintained, and unless they get properly sized and purposed (gate, swing, etc.) they have a tendency to fail open or scale shut. Of course, this is all pending the way it is designed. I'll think about your setup more and see if it comes to me.
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