victoly

Taking moderation to a whole new level. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

I figured we didn't have enough "pooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooorrrrrrrrr agggiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiieeeeeeeeeeeeeeesssssssssss" going on here.

i think i lost a year of my life just looking at this thread. pharmaceutical intervention needed.

In my experience, if it's going to bleach, it bleaches in totality. You don't get blotchy bleach spots (lul). When I upgraded my LEDs, i definitely washed out some of my caps. The overall color faded by probably 90% from an intense green to almost a pastel green. Still hasn't returned, and it's been 4 months.

bamp

+1 carbon and water changes. test your parameters to see if anything is out of whack.

You sure you want to ruin your fixture though? Maybe you could find a regular old light socket pendant and achieve a similar look.

The good news is, we paid for it to be built and THEN we pay to use it. Pretty sweet deal !

Got plenty of frags and equipment/cash to trade. Let me know what you have.

1) Lower startup cost for 2 part 2) 2 part, couldnt fit my HOB CaRx on my sumpless tank. 3) Both have the ability to "overdose". Your alk pump could freak out with 2 part and kill everything, your CO2 solenoid could freak out and drop your pH in your DT too low. Failsafes are available for both if you have a controller, but the possibility still exists. 4) CaRx is probably going to be more difficult, just due to the number of variables (influent flow rate, effluent flow rate, bubble rate VS just number of mLs of solution added in 2-part). If I had the ability, I would go CaRx. For larger tanks, it's less expensive over the long term, and I'm of the opinion that you get more of the trace elements back by dissolving old coral skeletons than you can with just the chemical additives in 2 part. That being said, 2 part is working just fine for me.

Tank your size you gotta go blue. Evoke the open ocean.

If you want to take the fish on a date, just buy it some shrimp.

bump, also willing to trade the CO2 setup for a 250w DE MH pendant.

OR make meth. Most realistic of all, and will make you crime syndicate king (may or may not live, NO SPOILERS HERE).

Looks wicked. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

The gold standard is the litermeter's. http://aquarium.bulkreefsupply.com/search?asug=&view=grid&cnt=16&w=litermeter There is an external pump module that has a pressure sensor integrated. It pulls water out of your DT at the same rate that it pulls clean water from a resevoir into your DT. I believe you can also add an ATO module, but don't quote me on that.

YOU RUINED IT

Of failure or using peristaltics to control auto water changing?

Consider using peristaltics for your in/out on any kind of auto water changer. The slow rate will make it very difficult to empty your tank. Take it from personal experience, ALL water level switches,no matter the variety, eventually lose resolution and fail.

Sold... would controlling 6 on a Reef Angel be doable? Mainly leaning the Reef Angel way because I really like their water sensors for ATO and automatic water changes. Also their leak detector. I'm exceptionally biased, but just from a local user support base, more people will be around to help. Something I've come to terms with along the way is that I like system redundancy. Specifically, I like to have a separate control (i.e., tunze ATO, or Bubble Magus doser) do some of the heavy logic lifting, and limit the apex control of that functionality to a simple on/off. What you lose in tweakability, you make up for not having a useless ATO or Doser if your "brain" has a stroke.

If you have synchronized sides, you could run even more than 4 (i.e., wiring up 2 pumps on the same control). Not sure why anyone would want to do that though.

That works as well, the just have a habit of floating off if not secured. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free