victoly

Closed up all the windows for the night (that rain!) and woke up to CO2 of ~1400! Something I've noticed on the charts is I believe that my pH is lagging behind the change in temperatures (and consequent change in HVAC usage?). You see the temp rising on the OP, and just now my pH is starting to rise as well. I think you have to have sustained change (i.e., small spikes dont seem to affect my pH because I don't aerate heavily). Also of note, check out my large pH DROP last night. Weird...

3 hours 650 and I'll stop the test there. Resume readings in the morning. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The results are in: Outdoor CO2 = 462 PPM, indoor CO2 = 1056 PPM. After having the windows open for 2 hours, I'm at 711 PPM.

I booted up an ambient CO2 monitor this morning. I'll let you know the results this evening after it's had a while to settle down. It hasn't been used in many years and I don't really wanna shell out the money to zero it out with nitrogen, so we'll see what kind of data we get.

Could be lots of things, I'm going to use a CO2 meter at work to see if i can diagnose. In regard to the pH reading interval, not sure why the time stamps are funky, readings get taken every 5 minutes.

Those temps are average outdoor temps. I postulate that it has something to do with how much the AC is running (positive pressure on the house maybe?), or how much time my family spends indoors/outdoors.

weird bug with my apex, every once in a while, i get a 2014 data point which makes my charts go ape. i have my apex set up here: http://www.reeftronics.net/victoly/apex-history

and the CO2 concentrations are most likely related to human respiration combined with how well sealed the garage is.

The correlation (especially in the last week) isn't great, but I've noticed that as the weather cools, that i seem to have lower pH (ostensibly from something relating to CO2 concentrations in my house as a result of HVAC or the way the house is sealed.) I'm not too concerned about the trend, unless it continues to drop. I might have to bring in some external air into a bubbler. Anyone else noticing similar variations?

I also believe that they are euplica scripta vs euplica versicolor.

Upon further consideration, don't think these guys were actively eating my coral, just scavenging on dying tissue (i.e., non-predatory). They actually do a pretty good job cruising the glass and cleaning up. They also reproduce like mad.

just an update to this, the majano wand worked on the pseudocorynactis, but didnt do anything to the aiptasia (2) that I have.

If you start a separate topic on your RODI, we can get you going.

end of an era. who was the cursed lucky recipient?

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/blog.php?b=519

The lab grade is built differently which lasts in a longer life span (up to double if you remove and clean it frequently) and it reacts more rapidly to change. The first reason justifies considering the lab grade, the second is only important if you have something on your tank that can rapidly change your pH (calcium reactor or kalk dosing).

whats your price range? are you using a controller or not?

First thing that catches my eye is using a hydrometer. They are notoriously inaccurate. Before you take any remedial action, take some water to an Lfs so they can check with a refractometer. Until then, it's shooting in the dark. **edit** refractometer != hydrometer.... I'm tired...

Welcome! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

They grow well enough. I find that I can't quite get the colors that I wan't, but I'm playing with lots of variables at once, so it's hard to pin it on any one thing. I suspect it's the light spectrum for me personally. I run like 24 3 watt LEDs over a 29 gallon tank at roughly 65% intensity.

A few things: The support community for Apex is much better organized and more responsive, and I'm including the manufacturer on that. At a local level (this club) the apex users are legion and willing to help. At some level, it comes down to Chevy/Ford, Nikon/Canon. With that in mind,apex has a reputation as being more solid and less prone to tank killing disasters like this one (tried googling "apex tank disaster" and didnt return anything) http://www.forum.digitalaquatics.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6194 From a technical level, both have various combinations of features that the other does not unless you add expansion modules in (the full apex has 0-10v dimming, the RKE does not BUT the RKE has switch inputs stock, the apex does not). It's going to come down to what you want this to do for you, and how much you want local help.

things are coming along nicely!

only difference worth noting IMO is that the EB8 can monitor amperage while the DC8 cannot.