AquaJohn

mystery wrasse + molting hermit = YUMMY YUMMY chicken dinner !

I have also seen mine dive bomb one in his shell grab it and start slamming it into the tank till he got his meal

I had 2 400watt single end 14K's over my tank and it was very yellowish. I switch to there 20K's and after about a week was very happy with the 20K's a nice blue tint but not like antic .

it could be pods and thats a good thing

See ya Sat

an M80 or a crank telephone works too if the seams of the tank hold against the m80

Lol

Pm coming on the 10 armaggedon palys

If its new its never been presurized the factory has "clean room air" so its fine if you open the vavle before its filled it will be contaminated not that its going to matter to much for a calcium reactor.

Medi is selling his calcium reactor and somone must have asked about having it shipped or at least thats my guess.

my guess is unless the tank is over stocked for its size or you have special needs fish 9 days would probly be fine but its getting close to the end of the safe point. mabey get an auto feeder ? I have never used one so cant comment.

I have had good luck with them and have ordered about 8 times. When there were problems they were more than happy to help resolve them <usualy store credit>.

if you dont find any Homedepot/lowes have it in there lighting section its a light defuser but they will not know what it is and you just have to walk up and down the isles its usualy in a rack. And if you call it egg crate they will look at you funny

I would love to get you some but I have never seen any after adding them to the tank several months ago.

also if the fish is swimming up to it then away its because its not comfortable with that new thing in the tank. Leave the bottle in there with no food in it or no food in the tank for a day or 2 then place food only in the bottle for the next few days.

You may also want to just leave the bottle in there for a week while normaly feeding then try not feeding with only food in the trap depending on how fast you need to get it .

the ez way to get the food in the trap is to put a small hole in it just big enough to get a turkey baster in and then blast a small amount of myst in there.

You need more than 1 they win the fight by out reproducing the aptasia the more you start with the faster they win. I added 10 to my 100 gal display and 4-5 months latter was hard pressed to find any aptasia in the display. I litteraly had multiple hundreds of them in there. I have yet to see any of the nudi's after adding them so they must still be munching on something.

I had a clam the hermits were fine around it but I happened to be watching and saw my emerald crab reach for some nori that was floating around and his claw went into the clam well the clam shut and after a few min of the crab trying to get away it finally did minus one big claw.

If they are in your overflows and sump they will be in your display too.

For the overflows I usualy just take out the durso pipes and leave them dry for a week and any snots stuck to the bottom are hit with the laser. I used to use aptaisa X but it seems to be like food to them now. As far as the sump I have taken it all apart and scrubbed everything with vinegar/water. I even had them in my skimmer lol. I will not say they are eradicated yet but I have not seen any in at least a week after adding the nudis several months ago. I also kept 20 peperment shrimp in my refuge altho when I cleaned it I could only find 5 and there are no preditors in there.

If it was me I would put about a cup of vinegar and a gal of water in the bucket and if you can get the power heads working I would throw them in the bucket with the vinegar water mix with them running for a few hours rinse it all out and your are golden.

Vinegar will not harm your tank or creatures in anyway. 2 months ago i started dosing vinegar as a carbon sorce to help with phospates/nitrates. im currently adding 30ml a day and will probly get up to 50-60 before the bacteria it helps grow will kick in.

if you want more info on it check RC's chemestry forum.

Thats why I said "the magic happend" I don't know what why where when or how but one day the tank just started to work. The fish were not all added at one time and not all fish that were added died but from 2ish to 7ish months I could add a fish it would be happy eating and cool for 3 days to a week then they would just be dead.

I think it may have been Jake at RCA that first brought up somthing happening to a tank at around the 1 year mark that just makes it work and after that I read several other "magical events" lol.

And my tank was started with rock from a 5 year old tank and he said he got it from somone that had it up for over 10 years. Most of it is real old school tonga .

if it was only 4 days I doubt it was food. When you got him did it have a fat belly ? if so it takes weeks/months for them to starve.

I killed tons of fish when I started then after about 8-12 months the magic kicked in and no more fish losses.

My B day is in April so I vote April.

It dont work that way but if you want I can refer you and we can split it 60-40

lol tell the people from 20 years ago you have to have an ro/di to have a nice tank.

Yes I have and use an RO/DI

to do it right you do need to remove the valve and at that point for it to be filled again it has to be recertified after its put back together <may as well let the tester put it to gether he has to take it apart to clean and test it> unless no one says anything to the place that is refilling it. But at that point the tank is no longer pure co2 the same as if you let it run out to the point there is no pressure keeping air our.

And its the valve hooked to the tank not just the regulator.

In all reality it might be cheeper to buy a new co2 tank than to pay the cost of shipping and testing of it. And depending on the age of it <it should have a metal stamp on it> before its refilled it may have to be inspected anyways.

for the coloration on those thats a killer price.

Most are kind of a washed out cream yellow.

So as long as they are not retracting and staying inflated then they are probly not in combat right